When Coralie Bijasson recently released the Erell t-shirt and the Sanaz culotte skirt, the girls kept asking me: "So are you going to order them, huh?"... "Yes, I’m going to order them, hold your horses" 😂

In short, you got it, the whole team fell for the Sanaz culotte skirt which reminds me of the Japanese Hakama pants, for Céline it's more the culotte skirts from her childhood, and Marie the comfort of wide pants dear to her heart! 

There is a very emotional side to this piece that will become a key item in our wardrobes! 

Without further ado, let's talk about our three very different versions of the Sanaz culotte skirt by Coralie Bijasson, here we go! 

The model

Sanaz is an elegant and feminine culotte skirt model, offered in two lengths: midi or long, created by Coralie Bijasson. With its waist marked by a shaped belt and its western cut on the front, it combines modernity and originality.

Its discreet Italian pockets add a practical and refined touch, while the invisible side zipper ensures a neat finish.

The charm of Sanaz lies in its extra-wide legs, structured by flat pleats that offer spectacular volume while preserving fluidity. This generous cut enhances movement and creates a silhouette that is both bold and airy.

Information for sewing this model

Sanaz is a model by Coralie Bijasson and is available in booklet and PDF format on our site. In addition, Coralie has planned a wide range of sizes, as Sanaz is offered from 34 to 56 (FR), 2 to 24 (US), 6 to 28 (UK).

Sanaz flatters all body shapes and adapts to all occasions, from chic everyday wear to elegant evenings. Depending on the fabrics chosen, you can achieve a very different look, just look at our three versions! 

In the seamstress's basket

For this model, Coralie recommends medium-weight, fluid, and non-transparent materials: like a crepe or a viscose twill, a serge or a cotton poplin, a tencel/lyocell, a linen/viscose...

For my part, I would say that the choice of fabric really depends on the desired look.

If you want a more structured pant like a hakama: a fine denim, linen, linen/cotton, linen, a light gabardine... will be perfect with a good definition of the pleats.

If you want a more fluid, lightweight pant on the legs, opt for tencel, a heavy viscose, a cotton satin; you will get a more flowing pant. 

Here is the summary table of fabric and material needs to sew Sanaz: 

Our supplies

Eugénie

I still had in my personal fabric stash: a beautiful Japanese linen/cotton blend with a cherry blossom pattern. 

Blue with orange accents was perfect to pair with my little sweaters! I could clearly see this combination taking shape but... I only had 1.7m: not enough 😱! No matter, I chose an orange poplin scrap for the pocket bag and a denim scrap from a previous project to make the waistband and tada everything fit.

I took some thin fusible interfacing for the waistband (H200) and a 22cm dark gray YKK invisible zipper from my personal stock. I also used orange bias tape, I'll explain why in my sewing experience. 

Céline

I had wanted to make myself culotte shorts for a while but couldn't decide on a pattern.  When I saw Sanaz's belt, I was immediately charmed.
I chose the midi version and decided to sew it in a black corduroy velvet, to easily match it with my wardrobe and be able to wear it all winter.

I cut size 40, even though I would have fit into a 38, I don't like being tight in my clothes.

Marie

When Coralie Bijasson posted photos of Sanaz on Instagram, my heart went "boom!" I immediately asked Eugénie if the pattern had already arrived at the shop. She replied, "yes, give me time to do everything I have to do and we will sew it!" I waited patiently and was able to sew... my favorite pants! Because, as I already said last year for the Harmonie pattern from I am Pattern, you know I love palazzo pants, those pants with long and ultra-wide legs.   For the pattern, I therefore started with the long leg version. From the "culotte skirt" length, I lengthened the pattern by 16 centimeters for my height of 1.65 m. Since the legs are never wide enough for me, I looked to see if I could still increase the width. Which I did by 9 cm on each side. I didn't do too much so as not to unbalance the pattern between the upper and lower parts. Well, it was just right. In my future versions, I will return to the original lines of the pattern.   I think you know here too, I don't like notching my fabric pieces. I always try another way before notching. What I did here as well, at the "V" of the waistband. I was too afraid that the tencel would fray over time. I sewed one side of the point. With an iron, I neatly folded the seam allowances as they presented themselves and pressed the fold of the seam allowance on the other side. I sewed into this prepared fold as close as possible to the point before risking a false fold in my seam. And after another press, I topstitched everything. Writing it now, I realize I could also have finished this small interruption of sewing with a few hand stitches. That will be for the next version!  

I started with a beautiful blue jeans tencel from the shop. Eugénie had brought this fabric in some time ago and it has become a classic in the shop. I knew I was going to sew a garment with it, but I hadn't found the pattern yet. With Sanaz, I immediately thought of it. It is fluid, with a beautiful drape, a nice crispness when it moves. The width of the legs really highlights it. I used a blue Gutermann thread from my stock.   For the waistband, I wanted structure for good support so that the garment stays neat throughout the day (the tencel is beautiful, but it tends to wrinkle a bit). I applied the woven interfacing G700, very versatile: it gives structure while remaining flexible.

Technical points

Sanaz is accessible at an intermediate sewing level but I would say that a motivated beginner and/or with supervision can also attempt sewing this pattern which allows learning quite a few technical points.

Indeed, to sew Sanaz, you will need to:
- sew Italian pockets,
- create flat pleats
- assemble the crotch
- sew a waistband with curve and point
- insert an invisible zipper
- make hems.

Nothing insurmountable but steps that still require precision and rigor to achieve a top result! 

Sewing experience

Eugénie

I chose to sew Sanaz in size 34. I deliberately chose not to cut the long version but to lengthen the legs by 9cm compared to the short version and yes, I am part of the petite woman; petite leg team 😂. 

Since my fabric piece was really just enough to cut the large leg pieces; I chose to make the pocket bag in orange poplin and the waistband from a denim scrap.

I find that my creation is all the more beautiful for it! 

The assembly is very simple and Coralie's instructions are, as always, very easy to follow. 

At the fitting, I found that my pants were almost already the right length without hemming, so I finished with an orange bias for a nod to the pocket bag;

A chic and effective way to keep length. 

Since the result is awesome and I am not afraid of having a too structured result; I have already started version two 😊 in denim jacquard imitation boro. 

Céline

I found the assembly of the pieces interesting and quite simple. 

I had just forgotten that corduroy tends to catch a bit.

I had to redo the waistband twice because unsightly folds appeared between the waistband and the flat pleats. Luckily, seam rippers exist! I take this opportunity to say that these are very pleasant to use with their large handle that fits well in the hand. 

Once the outer waistband was well placed, the rest went smoothly. 

I had lengthened the legs a bit for fear that it would be too short for my taste but in the end I cut back to the original length.  

I am delighted with the result, it is very comfortable and I find that it fits well, even if the corduroy was not among the recommended fabrics.

The corduroy being quite fine despite everything, the pleats are not too structured and do not weigh down the silhouette. I am already thinking about a version for next summer, I think it would be very nice in a linen-viscose!

Marie

Sanaz is an original pattern in its design with a very scenic result. I would say it is aimed at seamstresses who have already made some clothes and want to work on precision: The legs, the Italian pockets are quite accessible, but the waistband represents a small challenge. The seams of the "V" pieces always require a bit of concentration. And depending on the chosen fabric, the challenge can increase in complexity... and our technique in skill then!   It is quite certain that Sanaz will become a central piece of my wardrobe. I love Eugénie and Céline's versions. I am sure I will make it in cotton poplin and corduroy. Like my two sewing buddies!

Three different versions and three happy seamstresses with their creation; what more could you ask for! 

Thank you Coralie for these beautiful patterns that we all love! 

Want to sew Sanaz? Find the patterns here.

Afraid to start alone, why not come to the workshop and make it with our team of teachers?