Sewing trio - We sew the Sanaz culotte skirt by Coralie Bijasson!

When Coralie Bijasson recently released the Erell t-shirt and the Sanaz culotte skirt, the girls kept asking me: "Are you going to order them, right?"... "Yes, I’m going to order them, hold your horses" 😂

In short, you’ve got it—the whole team fell for the Sanaz culotte skirt, which reminds me of the Japanese Hakama pants, for Céline it’s more like the culotte skirts from her childhood, and for Marie, the comfort of wide pants dear to her heart! 

There is a very emotional side to this piece that will become a key item in our wardrobes! 

Without further ado, let's talk about our three very different versions of the Sanaz culotte skirt by Coralie Bijasson, here we go! 


The pattern

Sanaz is an elegant and feminine culotte skirt pattern, offered in two lengths: midi or long, created by Coralie Bijasson. With its waist defined by a shaped belt and a western-style front yoke, it combines modernity and originality.

Its discreet Italian pockets add a practical and refined touch, while the invisible side zipper ensures a neat finish.

The charm of Sanaz lies in its extra-wide legs, structured by flat pleats that offer spectacular volume while preserving fluidity. This generous cut enhances movement and creates a silhouette that is both bold and airy.


Information for sewing this pattern

Sanaz is a pattern by Coralie Bijasson and is available in printed and PDF formats on our site. Plus, Coralie offers a wide size range, as Sanaz is available from 34 to 56 (FR), 2 to 24 (US), 6 to 28 (UK).

Sanaz flatters all body types and suits all occasions, from chic everyday wear to elegant evenings. Depending on the fabrics chosen, you can achieve a very different look—just look at our three versions! 

Black corduroy version for Céline

Tencel for Marie

Japanese fabrics for Eugénie

In the seamstress's basket

For this pattern, Coralie recommends medium-weight, fluid, and non-transparent fabrics: such as a crepe or a twill of viscose, a serge or a cotton poplin, a tencel/lyocell, a linen/viscose...

For my part, I would say that the choice of fabric really depends on the desired look.

If you want more structured pants like hakama: a fine denim, linen, linen/cotton, linen, or a light gabardine... will be perfect with well-defined pleats.

If you want pants that are more fluid and light on the legs, opt for tencel, a heavy viscose, or cotton satin; you will get pants that are more flowing. 

Here is the summary table of fabric and material needs to sew Sanaz: 


Our supplies

Eugénie

I still had in my personal fabric stash: a beautiful Japanese linen/cotton blend with a cherry blossom pattern. 

Blue with orange accents was perfect to pair with my little sweaters! I could clearly see this combination coming together but... I was only 1.7m tall: not enough 😱! No worries, I chose an orange poplin scrap for the pocket bag and a denim scrap from a previous project to make the belt and tada everything fit.

I took some thin fusible interfacing for the belt (H200) and a 22cm dark gray YKK invisible zipper from my personal stock. I also used orange bias tape, I'll explain why in my sewing experience. 

Céline

I had wanted to make a culotte skirt for a while but couldn't decide on a pattern.  When I saw Sanaz's belt, I was immediately charmed.
I chose the midi version and decided to sew it in black corduroy, to easily match it with my wardrobe and be able to wear it all winter.

I cut size 40, even though I could have fit into a 38, I don't like to be tight in my clothes.

Marie

When Coralie Bijasson posted photos of Sanaz on Instagram, my heart went "boom!" I immediately asked Eugénie if the pattern had already arrived at the shop. She replied, "yes, give me time to do everything I need to do and we'll sew it!" I waited patiently and was able to sew... my favorite pants! Because, as I already said last year for the Harmonie pattern from I am Pattern, you know I love palazzo pants, those with long and ultra-wide legs.   For the pattern, I went with the long legs version. From the "culotte skirt" length, I lengthened the pattern by 16 centimeters for my height of 1.65m. Since the legs are never wide enough for me, I checked if I could still increase the width. I added 9 cm on each side. I didn’t add too much so as not to unbalance the pattern between the upper and lower parts. Well, it was just right. In my future versions, I will return to the original lines of the pattern.   I think you know by now, I don’t like clipping my fabric pieces. I always try another way before clipping. That’s what I did here too, at the “V” of the waistband. I was too afraid the tencel would fray over time. I sewed one side of the point. With an iron, I folded the seam allowances neatly as they presented themselves and pressed the fold of the seam allowance on the other side. I sewed into this prepared fold as close as possible to the point before risking a false fold in my seam. After another press, I topstitched everything. Now that I write it down, I realize I could have also finished this little sewing interruption with a few hand stitches. That will be for the next version!  

I started with a gorgeous blue jeans tencel from the shop. Eugénie had brought this fabric in some time ago and it has become a classic in the shop. I knew I was going to sew a garment with it, but I hadn’t found the pattern yet. With Sanaz, I immediately thought of it. It is fluid, with a beautiful drape, a nice crispness when it moves. The fullness of the legs really showcases it well. I used a blue Gutermann thread from my stock.   For the waistband, I wanted structure for good support so the garment stays neat throughout the day (the tencel is beautiful, but it tends to wrinkle a bit). I applied the woven interfacing G700, very versatile: it provides structure while remaining flexible.


Technical points

Sanaz is accessible at an intermediate sewing level but I would say a motivated beginner and/or with supervision can also attempt sewing this pattern which allows learning quite a few technical points.

Indeed, to sew Sanaz, you will need to:
- sewing Italian pockets,
- creating flat pleats
- assembling the crotch
- sewing a waistband with curve and point
- inserting an invisible zipper
- making hems.

Nothing insurmountable but steps that still require precision and rigor to achieve a top result! 


Sewing experience

Eugénie

I chose to sew Sanaz in size 34. I deliberately chose not to cut the long version but to lengthen the legs by 9cm compared to the short version, and yes, I am part of the petite woman team; short legs 😂. 

Since my coupon was really just enough to cut the large leg pieces, I chose to make the printed in orange poplin and the waistband from a scrap of denim.

I think my creation is all the more beautiful because of it! 

The assembly is very simple and Coralie’s instructions are, as always, very easy to follow. 

At the fitting, I thought my pants were almost the right length without a hem, so I finished them with an orange bias tape to match the printed;

A chic and effective way to keep length. 

Since the result is stunning and I’m not afraid of a too structured look, I’ve already started version two 😊 in denim jacquard with a boro imitation. 

Céline

I found assembling the pieces interesting and quite simple. 

I had just forgotten that corduroy tends to catch a bit.

I had to redo the waistband twice because unsightly folds appeared between the waistband and the flat pleats. Luckily, seam rippers exist! I’d like to say that these ones are very pleasant to use with their large handle that fits well in the hand. 

Once the outer waistband was properly attached, the rest went smoothly. 

I had lengthened the legs a bit, fearing it would be too short for my taste, but in the end I cut them back to the original length.  

I’m delighted with the result; it’s very comfortable and I think it fits well, even though corduroy wasn’t one of the recommended fabrics.

Since the corduroy is quite fine after all, the pleats aren’t too structured and don’t weigh down the silhouette. I’m already thinking about a version for next summer; I think it would be very nice in a linen-viscose blend!

Marie

Sanaz is an original pattern in its design with a very theatrical look. I would say it’s aimed at seamstresses who have already made a few garments and want to work on precision: The legs and the Italian pockets are quite accessible, but the waistband is a bit of a challenge. The seams of the “V” pieces always require some concentration. And depending on the fabric chosen, the challenge can increase in complexity... and our technique in skill as a result!   It is absolutely certain that Sanaz will become a key piece in my wardrobe. I love Eugénie and Céline’s versions. I’m sure I’ll make it in cotton poplin and corduroy. Just like my two sewing buddies!

Three different versions and three happy seamstresses with their creations; what more could you ask for! 

Thank you Coralie for these lovely patterns that we all love! 

Want to sew Sanaz? Find the patterns here.

Afraid to start on your own? Why not come to a workshop and make it with our team of teachers?

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