When Coralie Bijasson recently released the Erell T-shirt and Sanaz culottes, the girls kept asking me, "You are going to order them, aren't you?"... "Yes, I will order them. Hold your horses!" 😂
The whole team fell for Sanaz culottes. They remind me of Japanese hakama trousers; for Céline, they bring back childhood culottes, while Marie loves the comfort of wide trousers so dear to her heart!
There is a strong emotional connection to this piece, which will become a wardrobe mainstay!
Without further ado, here are our three very different versions of Coralie Bijasson's Sanaz culottes!
The design
Sanaz is an elegant, feminine culotte design in two lengths, midi or long, created by Coralie Bijasson. With a shaped waistband defining the waist and a western-style front seam, it combines modernity and originality.
Discreet slant pockets add a practical, refined touch, while an invisible side zip gives a neat finish.
Sanaz's charm lies in its extra-wide legs, structured by flat pleats that create dramatic volume while preserving fluidity. This generous cut highlights movement and creates a bold yet airy silhouette.
Information for sewing this design
Sanaz is a Coralie Bijasson design available in printed and PDF formats on our website. Coralie has provided a broad size range: Sanaz comes in 34 to 56 (FR), 2 to 24 (US), 6 to 28 (UK).
Sanaz flatters every body shape and suits every occasion, from chic everyday wear to elegant evenings. Your fabric can produce a very different result: just look at our three versions!
Black fine-wale corduroy for Céline
Tencel for Marie
Japanese fabric for Eugénie
In the sewing basket
For this design, Coralie recommends medium-weight, fluid, opaque materials such as viscose crêpe or twill, twill or cotton poplin, tencel/lyocell, a linen-viscose blend...
I would say your fabric choice really depends on the look you want.
For more structured, hakama-style trousers, lightweight denim, linen, linen-cotton, linen or light gabardine will be perfect, with well-defined pleats.
For trousers that flow more lightly around the legs, choose tencel, heavy viscose or cotton satin for more movement.
Here is the summary chart of fabric and supplies needed to sew Sanaz:
Our supplies
Eugénie
In my personal fabric stash, I had some beautiful Japanese linen-cotton blend with a cherry blossom print.
Blue with orange accents, it was perfect with my little jumpers! I could picture the combination, but... I only had 1.7m: not enough 😱! Never mind: I chose an orange poplin scrap for the pocket bags and a denim scrap from an earlier project for the waistband. Ta-da, everything fitted.
I took some lightweight fusible interfacing for the waistband (H200) and a dark-grey YKK invisible zip measuring 22cm from my own stash. I also used orange bias binding; I will explain why in my sewing experience.
Céline
I had wanted to make culottes for a while but could not settle on a pattern.
When I saw Sanaz's waistband, I was immediately won over.
I chose the midi version in black fine-wale corduroy, so it would go easily with my wardrobe and I could wear it all winter.
I cut size 40, although I would have fitted into a 38: I do not like tight clothes.
Marie
When Coralie Bijasson posted photos of Sanaz on Instagram, my heart skipped a beat! I immediately asked Eugénie whether the pattern had arrived at the shop. She replied, "Yes, give me time to do everything I need to do, and we will sew it!" I waited patiently and got to make... my favourite trousers! As I said last year about the Harmonie pattern by I am Pattern, you know I love palazzo trousers with long, ultra-wide legs.
I chose the long-leg version. From the culotte length, I lengthened the pattern by 16 centimetres for my height of 1m65.
As the legs are never wide enough for me, I looked at whether I could widen them further. I added 9 cm on each side. I did not go too far, to avoid unbalancing the upper and lower sections. It was just enough. In future versions, I will return to the original pattern lines.
As you may also know, I do not like clipping my fabric pieces. I always try another approach first. I did so again at the waistband's V, as I was afraid the tencel would fray over time. I sewed one side of the point. Using the iron, I folded the seam allowances neatly as they lay and pressed the fold of the seam allowance on the other side. I stitched into that prepared fold as close to the point as possible without catching an unwanted fold in the seam. After another press, I topstitched everything. Writing this now, I realise I could also have finished that little gap with a few hand stitches. Next time!
I chose a beautiful denim-blue tencel from the shop. Eugénie stocked it some time ago, and it has become a shop classic. I knew I would make a garment from it but had not found the pattern. Sanaz immediately brought it back to mind. It is fluid, with a lovely drape and liveliness in movement. The wide legs really show it off.
I used blue Gutermann thread from my stash.
For the waistband, I wanted enough body and support to keep the garment looking neat throughout the day: tencel is beautiful but tends to crease a little. I applied versatile G700 woven interfacing, which adds body while remaining supple.
Sewing techniques
Sanaz is accessible to intermediate sewists, but I would say a motivated beginner and/or someone sewing under supervision could also tackle it and learn plenty of techniques.
To sew Sanaz, you will:
- sew slant pockets,
- make flat pleats
- join the crotch seam
- sew a curved waistband with a point
- insert an invisible zip
- sew hems.
Nothing insurmountable, but these steps require precision and care for an excellent result!
Sewing experience
Eugénie
I chose size 34. I deliberately did not cut the long version, instead adding 9cm to the short version's legs. Yes, I belong to the short-woman, short-leg team 😂.
As my remnant was only just large enough for the big leg pieces, I made the pocket bags in orange poplin and the waistband from a denim scrap.
I think my version is all the more beautiful for it!
Construction is very simple, and Coralie's instructions are, as always, very easy to follow.
When I tried the trousers on, they were almost the right length without hemming. So I finished them with orange bias binding to echo the pocket bags;
a chic, effective way to preserve length.
As the result looks fantastic and I am not afraid of a more structured finish, I have already started version two 😊 in denim jacquard with an imitation-boro design.
Céline
I found assembling the pieces interesting and fairly simple.
I had just forgotten that corduroy tends to catch a little.
I had to attach the waistband twice, because unattractive tucks formed between it and the flat pleats. Thank goodness for seam rippers! These ones are very pleasant to use, with their large, comfortable handles.
Once the outer waistband was properly attached, everything else went smoothly.
I had lengthened the legs a little, fearing they would be too short for me, but ended up trimming them back to the original length.
I am delighted with the result: it is very comfortable and hangs beautifully, even though corduroy was not among the recommended fabrics.
As the fine-wale corduroy is fairly thin, the pleats are not too structured and do not weigh down the silhouette. I am already thinking about a version for next summer. Linen-viscose would be lovely!
Marie
Sanaz has an original design and a very dramatic result. I would say it suits sewists who have already made a few garments and want to work on precision. The legs and slant pockets are quite accessible, while the waistband presents a little challenge. V-shaped seams always require concentration, and depending on your fabric, the challenge can become more complex... and our skills grow with it!
Sanaz will definitely become a central piece in my wardrobe. I love Eugénie's and Céline's versions. I will certainly make it in cotton poplin and fine-wale corduroy, just like my two sewing friends!
Three different versions and three sewists delighted with their garments: what more could we ask for!
Thank you, Coralie, for these beautiful patterns that we all love!
Would you like to sew Sanaz? Find the patterns here.
Afraid to start alone? Why not join a workshop and make it with our teaching team?
