If you have already sewn a few projects (or many), you know how much the choice of fabric will influence the final result and the satisfaction gained from your sewing. Yet, this choice step is not necessarily obvious. While some quickly manage to match pattern/fabric, ... others will have long-term difficulties finding the right combinations. 

I offer you some advice and points to check to choose the fabrics that best suit your projects!

1. The pattern

When you start a project, there is a good chance you will use a pattern. You will find a section with fabric type recommendations. 

I invite you to take these recommendations into account because the designer created their pattern for these types of fabrics (weight, drape, etc.).  

Nothing forces you to follow them 100%, you can also be creative. This will then be at your own risk if you have little knowledge of fabric types. However, sometimes it also leads to pleasant surprises and unexpected results. 

For the patterns I offer in the shop, you will always find the recommended fabrics section. This allows you to choose the right fabric/pattern combination.

2. Fabric characteristics

The characteristics to consider are:

• type: knits vs woven
• weave
• elasticity

It is important to check if your pattern is designed for a knit fabric or a woven fabric. Knit fabrics have some elasticity, and the pattern was designed taking this elasticity into account. If you make a pattern intended for knit in a woven fabric, chances are you won't be able to get into it! For example, the head won't pass through the neckline of a t-shirt, or your hips won't fit into the dress without adding a zipper. You understand, the elasticity of a fabric is an important characteristic to consider. 

Conversely, making a knit garment with a pattern originally designed for a woven fabric can be very complicated in terms of details to achieve. If it's a simple pattern, it might work, but consider choosing one size smaller; otherwise, your knit fabric will be loose, and you'll feel like you're "floating" in your sewing project. 

If you are a sewing novice, it is best to carefully follow the pattern maker's instructions and respect them to start well and be satisfied with your creations. Then, with good knowledge of fabrics, you can gradually move away from them and be more creative if you wish. 

You can also ask your haberdasher for advice. I do so myself gladly 😊

3. The weight / Fabric weight

The weight of a fabric indicates its lightness or heaviness; which often influences its drape and therefore the drape of the final garment.

A light fabric will often be more airy and a heavy fabric will rather "weigh down" the garment, meaning the fabric of your garment will be pulled towards the ground (it literally drapes). 

Here is a guide to help you navigate fabric weights:

• Voiles and mousselines between 60 gr/m2 and 90 gr/m2 (very light fabric - airy and often transparent)
• Poplin, cotton voile, cotton lawn between 70 gr/m2 and 120 gr/m2 (light fabric suitable for summer outfits but also for women's blouses, children's clothing, facings, linings...) 
• Men's shirt fabric in 90 gr/m2 and 130 gr/m2
• Summer fabric between 120 gr/m2 and 180 gr/m2 (light to medium fabric) 
• Winter fabric between 180 gr/m2 and 300 gr/m2 (medium to thick fabric) 
• Fabric tee-shirt / jersey between 180gr and 250gr/m2 (medium fabric)
• Fabric sweat / french terry between 200gr/m2 for the french terry and 280gr/m2 (medium to heavy fabric)
• Jacket fabric 200 gr/m2 (medium weight fabric) 
• Coat fabric 350 gr/m2 or more (heavy fabric)

4. The drape / the hand

Fabrics of the same weight will not necessarily have the same drape. Some have more body and will be perfect, for example, for making pleats or "origami" patterns; others will be softer. 

With a fluid fabric, you will create skirts, blouses, dresses while you will need a fairly thick and stiff fabric to make a jacket, a coat, or an A-line skirt.

We can distinguish 3 types of drape:

• fluid: very supple fabric that embraces and adapts to the body. It is notably used for drapes.
• moderate: it is the most common and versatile in terms of use. It brushes the body without hugging the shapes. 
• stiff: fabric often more rigid and stiff that will move away from the body, it will add more volume to the silhouette. 

• Fabrics with a fluid drape: viscose poplin, cotton lawn, viscose jersey, wool crepe...
• Fabrics with a moderate drape: cotton satin, cotton poplin, 100% linen, wool crepe, stretch wool, Crepe, cotton jersey, soft tulle...
• Fabrics with a stiff drape: Taffeta, stiff tulle, linen blend, gabardine, denim, tweed, oxford, canvas, sweat fabric...

5. Color / patterns

I have also selected it as an important characteristic in the success of your project even if this criterion is a bit different from the previous ones. 

Indeed, there is no point in properly matching fabric and pattern, sewing the garment very carefully if in the end you don't like the color or pattern or you don't know how to match it with anything in your wardrobe!

It is important to think about whether the color or patterns you have chosen for your garment suit you in terms of a crush but also style. You might be attracted to a patterned fabric before sewing; whereas usually you only wear black. I exaggerate a bit but be attentive when shopping because it's too unfortunate to sew clothes, spend hours perfecting them, and see them end up at the back of the wardrobe never to come out... 

What can be nice is to create a seasonal moodboard of colors and types of garments you want to sew or need. It helps to focus and avoid sewing 10 floral summer dresses when you really need pants... I speak from experience 😊 so you can benefit from my mistakes. 

6. Your sewing level and the difficulty level to sew the type of fabric

If you are a beginner in sewing, go for simple patterns and easy-to-sew fabrics that will build your confidence to progress gradually... It's too unfortunate to get discouraged by choosing complex fabrics or patterns that are too difficult and will give you a hard time for a result below your expectations. Refer to the sewing level indicated on the patterns. 

On the other hand, if you have more ease and/or experience, it's time to increase the challenge and set small goals to keep having fun sewing and enjoy the satisfaction of making something "new" whether in technique, type of fabric, or garment. 

Let's also be honest, all this depends on your temperament. I've seen some spend 30 hours on their first sewing project wanting absolutely to sew a shirt. It's possible but as you understand, it requires a good dose of motivation!

Here you go, I hope this article will help you better understand the choice of your fabrics and I remain available by email or message to assist you 😊