You hesitate to buy a serger because you often hear that it complements the sewing machine; but, you might also be wondering what this device is for?

I admit that I also asked myself questions and hesitated for a long time before buying mine. I wondered if I would have a use that would "pay off" the investment in this relatively expensive machine. And then... fate made it so that one was given to me! I first tamed it and since then, I love using it. A few years later, I invested in a higher quality model. 

So today, I suggest you discover the different uses of the serger. This way, you can assess if you will find it useful and if it’s worth the investment (the cost).

Alright, let's go!

My two sergers: the brother Lock 2104-D and the Juki Kirei MO-214D

First, a bit of definition to understand well what a serger is... and oh, Larousse tells us that a serger is a machine that allows overlocking... and that overlocking is sewing with an overlock stitch... you could have told me that!

But what does it mean to overlock or make an overlock stitch?

Overlocking means making a tight stitch that overlaps two pieces of fabric to hold them together edge to edge. But you might say, well, like a sewing machine then! Yes, but not only because this machine also cuts the edge of the fabric at the same time as it assembles and makes the overlock stitch. That is to say, in a single step, the serger assembles, edges the borders, and cuts the excess fabric. 

This is the big difference with the sewing machine which, to assemble and edge fabrics, will require several steps. But let's go further in discovering this machine!

Anatomy of the serger

To understand the difference between a sewing machine and a serger, we will look together at their differences. 

A serger has, unlike a sewing machine:

• 1 knife composed of two blades that cuts the edge of the fabric,
• 2 needles that can be used together (for overlocking) or separately (for edging, for example),
• 2 loopers that form the overlock loops,
• 1 differential feed mechanism allowing adjustment of the 2 feed dogs (front and rear) 
• 3 or 4 cones/spools of thread allowing the stitches to be made.

The serger is therefore a machine "a bit more complex" than the sewing machine in its anatomy. 

Usefulness of the serger

1. Overcast

It is the most used option when buying a serger. Overcasting allows making neat finishes on the raw edges of your woven fabrics using the 3-thread overlock stitch. This clean finish stitch prevents the fabric from fraying. It is not an assembly stitch! Therefore, a second sewing step with the sewing machine will be necessary.

When overcasting, only one needle thread is used.

2. Overlock

The second most used option is the 4-thread overlock function also called overlock. It is the iconic stitch of the serger. It allows trimming (with the knife the raw edges of the fabric), assembling two fabrics together, and overcasting the fabric edges.

When overlocking with 4 threads, 4 threads and 2 needles are used. This stitch is reserved for knit fabrics. 

3. Making a rolled hem stitch

The rolled hem is a fabric edge finishing stitch. It is made quite tight and allows decorating the edge of a fabric. This stitch is ideal for finishing fine fabrics whether woven or knit. 

You can adjust the stitch density and width, but also use the differential feed to create a so-called lettuce hem. To make this stitch, 3 threads are used and the serger knife is not used.

4. More specific uses

You can make a 2-thread flat overlock also called flatlock. It is a decorative assembly stitch that is visible on the front of the fabric.

It is also possible to insert elastic with a serger, gather fabric, make piping, but also to place it... 

Advantages of the serger and points of attention

You will have understood, the serger has quite a fewadvantages.

1. First of all, it allows you to make a strong overlock assembly stitch. Indeed, this is much stronger than the simple zigzag stitch of the sewing machine.

2. The serger has a variety of useful finishing and assembly stitches: rolled hem, overlock stitch with 2, 3, or 4 threads.

3. The serger allows very quick assembly since in a single step, it can assemble, overlock, and cut stretch fabrics. 

4. The finishes and seams are of very good quality, we can talk about professional finishes. 

Nevertheless, it should also be noted points of attention about the overlocker or its disadvantages

1. The overlocker only sews fabric edges. It is not possible to sew in the middle of a fabric. 

2. It is necessary to practice because threading an overlocker is complex. It’s not difficult but requires some training and patience at first.

3. The overlocker also requires adjustments (differential feed, tension, stitch length and width...) This again requires trials to optimize settings and get perfect finishes.

4. The overlocker consumes quite a lot of thread (often 4 cones of thread) but that is also why the seams are strong.  

5. The overlocker does not allow assembling woven fabrics; only overlocking their edges. 

6. Depending on the chosen brand, the overlocker can be very noisy. So better test it!

So why buy an overlocker and for whom?

Do you want perfect finishes for your woven fabrics?

Do you sew a lot of knits: jersey, sweatshirt fabric, stretch velour...?

Do you like finishes with rolled hems?

So an overlocker is recommended! However, if you are a complete beginner in sewing, start by buying a sewing machine and mastering it before equipping yourself with an overlocker. 

Conclusions and to go further

Today, I couldn't do without my overlocker. It's a real plus in my workshop. I make sweatshirts, tee-shirts, all my overlocked woven fabrics...

If you want to buy one, I recommend going through a retailer to test several and find "your favorite brand or model." Nothing beats testing!

To go further in the use of the overlocker, I recommend two books that have become bibles for me. 

The first is "Sewing Stretch" by Marie Poisson and the second is "Overlocker and Coverstitch Sewing Guide" by Chrystelle Beneytout and Sandra Guernier.