Marie Hélène sews the Rainbow sweatshirt from Iam Patterns

I had long wanted to sew a couture piece that looks stylish but is also comfortable, even cozy for winter days. On the pattern side, I also wanted a well-thought-out, precise pattern rich in options. I didn’t hesitate for a second when I looked at the Rainbow printed pattern from Iam Patterns. And then, when Eugénie brought in this cheerful sweatshirt with a completely wild print, I had found my sewing project! I’ll explain everything. 


The model

The Rainbow model brilliantly reinvents a wardrobe staple, the comfortable and all-purpose sweatshirt. The one you put on for a quick errand, a TV night, or pair with boots and jewelry if you want to be a bit more elegant without compromising comfort. Its multiple versions also allow us to cover our heads or not, wear it as a pullover or open, and keep our hands warm in kangaroo pockets, piped pockets, or pockets sewn into the seam. And in terms of length, you can go from the classic length below the waist to dress length. 

Used to fitted clothes, I was a bit apprehensive about its straight look, but I find the result very well designed and very flattering!


Practical information for sewing the model
 

With the printed pattern Rainbow, Marie-Emilienne, the pattern designer at I Am Patterns, did an incredible job to give us a highly versatile pattern that is also very clear. Rainbow includes 70 different variations (26 more with the versions without pockets).

The different parts of the sweatshirt are:
- 4 lengths: classic, mid-thigh, below the knee, and mid-calf
- 3 neckline finishes: edge-to-edge hood, crossover hood, or collar
- 2 styles: sweatshirt with a zipper or pullover sweatshirt
- 3 types of pockets: kangaroo, piped, or in the seam (or no pocket)
- 2 cuff and hem finishes: with ribbing or simple hem   

All these versions are available from size 34 to size 46 as printed patterns, and the finished garment measurement chart is very useful for choosing the size(s) you want to make. 

From a technical point of view, Rainbow is classified as "simple" by the brand; we will have the opportunity to discuss this later. By the way, we are talking here about the Rainbow for women, but there are also versions for men and children. I have not (yet) looked into these versions of the model, but the announced sewing program is just as rich as the one we are focusing on here. And no worries with so many choices, we are never lost.     

To clearly see all possible versions, the pattern includes a double-sided A3 sheet presenting, by category, the technical drawings of all variants. Once the choice is made, a summary table lists, for each version, the assembly steps to follow, making the assembly process very simple.


In the seamstress's basket 

Thick knits are perfect for sweatshirt fabric, fleece, or brushed French terry for a very soft effect, up to flexible knits and lurex for a more chic look.   

To sew Rainbow, you will need:

 - Fabric: from 1.55 m to 3.40 m depending on the chosen length 
Depending on your version:
 - 40 cm of ribbing
- a separable zipper between 55 and 110 cm long
- a cord 120 cm long 
- two eyelets with a diameter suitable for the chosen cord and two small pieces of fusible interfacing to reinforce the fabric at that spot
- fusible interfacing suitable for the fabric for the welt pockets

My supplies and my version 

Since I wanted a cozy version, I sewed a mid-length sweatshirt with a hood and kangaroo pockets. I prefer cardigans to pullovers, so I chose to install a zipper. For the size, I cut a 38 for the shoulders, flaring to a 40 at the hips.

From the moment it arrived at the shop, I completely fell for the super soft and totally wild "manga – harajuku girl" sweatshirt. I found it very "rainbow" indeed, and as someone who tries to be a rather cheerful and enthusiastic person, I thought this pattern echoed that nicely. If any doubts crossed my mind during sewing, they immediately vanished as soon as I wore my finished sweatshirt. For a bit of background, "Harajuku" is the name of a very lively shopping district in Tokyo; it’s also a fashion style that appeared in the 1980s, named after this district. It’s a very free, colorful way of dressing that humorously mixes traditional, Western, manga... and many other sources of inspiration to create a unique and wild style.

To highlight the edges of the garment, I chose wine-colored tubular ribbing which tones down the whole a little bit. To go all the way with the fun, I sprinkled my sweatshirt with glitter! I first attached a 70 cm detachable silver lurex zipper. Generally, I like bound zipper pulls for a nice finish, but here, I felt the shine was enough on its own. I also sewed on an Ikatee “make a wish” label that goes perfectly with all the little characters in the pattern. I set the eyelets with a hammer. It can seem a bit scary, but if you take your time, it’s very easy to do.    

One last supply detail: the fabric is very colorful on the outside and white on the inside. To sew with the serger, I used 3 white cones and one burgundy cone for the thread that might show on the outside. Similarly, for some sewing machine seams, I used a burgundy spool for the right side and a white bobbin thread for the wrong side.


Indicated difficulty level and technical points
 

Rainbow is indeed an affordable and accessible sewing project. It sews very easily and the instructions are clear and precise. However, some versions are more challenging than others, and it can be a bit overwhelming with all the information if it’s your first sweatshirt. 

In the workshop, we offer a course on sewing a first sweatshirt to get familiar with the pieces and sewing this type of fabric on a serger. From participants’ feedback, it’s a good foundation to then tackle more complex versions.   

Technical points common to all versions:
 - Sewing stretch seams with a serger and/or sewing machine
 - Sewing and topstitching multiple layers 
 - Sewing neckline, cuff, and hem bands    

 And depending on the versions:
 - Installing a zipper
 - Welt pockets, kangaroo pockets, or pockets sewn into the seam
 - Setting eyelets
 - Making a hood


I really enjoyed sewing this garment and I’m thrilled with the result. I find my garment flattering, well-cut, comfortable, and very fun! Now that I’ve made the pattern my own, you’ll definitely see me wearing other versions in the shop or workshop! Happy sewing!

Get your needles ready! 

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