I had long wanted to sew myself a couture piece that has style, but at the same time would be comfortable, even cozy for winter days.
On the pattern side, I also wanted a well-thought-out, precise pattern rich in possibilities. I didn’t hesitate for a second when I looked at the Rainbow pattern from Iam Patterns. And then, when Eugénie brought in this cheerful sweatshirt with a completely crazy print, I had found my sewing project! I’ll detail it all for you.
The model
The Rainbow model brilliantly revisits a staple of our wardrobe, the comfortable and all-terrain sweatshirt. The one you put on for a quick errand, for a TV evening, or wear with boots and jewelry if you want to be a bit more elegant without compromising on comfort. Its multiple versions also allow us to cover our head or not, wear it as a pullover or open, and keep our hands warm in kangaroo, piped, or seam pockets. And in terms of length, you can go from the classic length below the waist to the dress length.
Being very used to fitted clothes, I was a bit apprehensive about its straight look, but I find the result very well designed and very flattering!
Practical information for sewing the model
With the Rainbow pattern, Marie-Emilienne, the designer of I Am Patterns, did an incredible job to allow us to have a highly varied pattern, while being very clear. Rainbow includes 70 different variants (26 more with the versions without pockets).
The different elements of the sweatshirt are:
- 4 lengths: classic, mid-thigh, below-knee and mid-calf
- 3 neckline finishes: edge-to-edge hood, crossed hood or collar
- 2 styles: sweatshirt with a zipper or pullover sweatshirt
- 3 types of pockets: kangaroo, piped or in the seam (or no pocket)
- 2 wrist and garment hem finishes: with ribbing or simple hem
All these versions are available from size 34 to size 46 in printed pattern and the finished garment measurement chart is very useful for us to choose the size or sizes we want to make.
From a technical point of view, Rainbow is classified as "simple" by the brand; we will have the opportunity to talk about it again later. And by the way, we are talking here about the Rainbow for women, but it also exists for men and children. I have not (yet) looked into these versions of the model, but the announced sewing program is just as rich as the one we are dealing with here. And no panic in front of so many choices, we are never lost.
To clearly visualize all possible versions, the pattern includes an A3 double-sided sheet presenting, by category, the technical drawings of all variants. Once the choice is made, a summary table lists, for each version, the assembly steps to follow, making the assembly process very simple.
In the seamstress's basket
Thick knits will be perfect for the sweatshirt, brushed fleece or french terry for a very soft effect, up to flexible knits and lurex for a more chic look.
To sew Rainbow, you will need:
- Fabric: from 1.55 m to 3.40 m depending on the chosen length
Depending on your version:
- 40 cm of ribbing
- a separating zipper between 55 and 110 cm long
- a 120 cm lace
- two eyelets with a diameter suited to the chosen lace and two small pieces of fusible interfacing to reinforce the fabric at that spot
- fusible interfacing adapted to the fabric for the piped pockets
My supplies and my version
Since I wanted a very cozy version, I sewed a mid-length sweatshirt, with a hood and kangaroo pockets. I prefer cardigans to pullovers, so I opted for installing a zipper. For the size, I cut a 38 for the shoulders, flared to 40 at the hips.
Indicated difficulty level and technical points
Rainbow is indeed an affordable and accessible sewing project. It sews very easily and the instructions are clear and precise. However, some versions are more “challenging” than others and you can feel a bit lost with all the information if it’s your first sweatshirt.
In the workshop, we offer a course on sewing a first sweatshirt to get familiar with the pieces and sewing this type of fabric on the serger. And from the feedback of participants, it’s a good foundation to then start more complex versions.
Technical points common to all versions:
- Sewing stretch fabrics with the serger and/or sewing machine
- Sewing and topstitching multiple layers
- Sewing neckbands, cuffs, and hem bands
And depending on the versions:
- Installing a zipper
- The printed, kangaroo, or seam-sewn pockets
- Setting eyelets
- Making a hood
I really enjoyed sewing this garment and I’m delighted with the result. I find my garment flattering, well-cut, comfortable, and very fun! Now that I have made the pattern my own, it’s certain that at the shop, or in courses, you will see me wearing other versions! Happy sewing!
Get your needles ready!
