I often hear my students or the seamstresses around me say:
- "I have a serger but I don't use it, it's still in the box anyway"
- "I would like to make tee-shirts but I'm afraid to use the serger"
- "I prefer to sew poplin rather than jersey because I don't know how to use the serger"
- "I have a serger but I don't know how to thread it and I don't understand the settings"
- ...
In short, I told myself it was too silly... while understanding their dismay facing this machine... I admit I spent hours taming my first serger before I could get something satisfying and "wearable" out of it... but my desire to use it, my tenacity, and my patience made me stick with it!
After progressing together within our little duo "serger/seamstress," after some disputes and cold spells, ... today, I can say that the serger has become one of my best friends in the workshop for sewing tee-shirts, sweatshirts, and jersey dresses for myself but also joggings, pajamas, shorts... for my godson. And I wanted it to be the same for my students!
Let's demystify the use of the serger
As you know, the serger has many functions but the most interesting one, I think, and the reason we take the step to buy it, is sewing knit fabrics.
How does it work?
To serge is to make a tight stitch that overlaps two pieces of fabric to hold them edge to edge. During this step, the serger will also cut the fabric edge at the same time as it assembles and makes the overlock stitch. That means in one step, the serger assembles, overlocks the edges, and cuts the excess fabric.
That's the big difference with the sewing machine!
Since all these actions happen in a single step, serger sewing is very fast and allows you to create your projects in the blink of an eye.
Want to get started: My 7 tips for beginners
1. Choose a simple piece: a tee-shirt, a sweatshirt or a children's sarouel... with large straight lines and big curves
2. Don’t skimp on the quality of jersey or thread. One might be tempted to buy cheap jersey to test their serger but... cheap jersey stretches, moves, is thinner (often) and therefore harder to work with, often resulting in mediocre results. I invite you to "sacrifice" a piece of good quality jersey to practice and tame the machine.
Also buy good quality cones. It’s not necessary to spend a fortune on branded super spools but don’t take the cheapest ones that fluff and clog your machine.
3. Start practicing on scraps to:
- check your threading
- check your settings
before starting your project
4. Learn to control the pressure on the pedal to adjust the machine speed (the speed can be surprising!)
5. Check well the type of needles to use for your serger model and strictly follow the type when purchasing needles.
6. Don’t forget to regularly change your needles.
7. Regularly clean your serger with a brush to remove all the dust that clogs the mechanisms.
Sew your first tee-shirt
At the workshop, I chose to offer tee-shirt courses. We chose a simple tee-shirt/sweatshirt model with a round neckline; it is the easiest neckline to make!
There are many patterns like the Essentiel by Coralie Bijasson or the Marion by Atelier des premières... The choice is plentiful!
The steps of realization
1. Start by assembling the shoulders, not forgetting to add a bit of laminette. Feel free to read my article about laminette on the blog
2. Assemble the sleeves by placing them right sides together at the armhole you just created by assembling the shoulders.
3. Assemble the sides and close the sleeves in a single seam.
4. Assemble the neckline with the overlocker (you can baste this step for more precision)
5. finish the sleeve and body hems with:
- a hem
- a double needle "stretch" topstitch hem
- a knit bias tape to add some pep to your sewing
At the workshop
We have 3 overlockers (Juki and Brother) available to students and we organize special overlocker sessions especially to sew your first t-shirt or sweatshirt!
Last Saturday, we sewed a simple t-shirt pattern with more or less neckline according to each one's wishes. Martine and Muriel chose two floral jerseys from the shop with eucalyptus and poppy patterns.
As for me, I chose to "add some sparkle to my life" with the sparkling rain jersey on white background which comes in other colors.
And my three students left with smiles on their faces and their new t-shirts!
We took the opportunity to see or review the different edge finishing techniques. Muriel chose a red knit bias tape that adds some pep to her sewing project. All she has left is to apply the knit bias tape on the sleeves and to do the double needle hem at home.
Martine, for her part, opted for finishing with the double needle for the sleeve and body hems.
Can't wait to see these finished sewing projects!
I loved giving this course and the result is so rewarding with the smiles of the students and the pretty t-shirts that came out of the workshop that I will repeat course dates! You can find the upcoming dates in the courses tab of the blog or by clicking here.
And do you have an overlocker?
Do you use it a little, a lot, passionately, madly, or not at all?
Alright, I'll leave you now, I have a sweatshirt to finish!
Get your needles ready!
