More and more coat patterns are accessible and well explained in haberdasheries and you may have been tempted just like me to make your coat?

Maybe you wondered about the choice of the pattern, supplies, techniques... and postponed this project indefinitely... Well, this article aims to give you the answers I myself would have wanted to find when I started making my first coat a few years ago! 

So let's go! 

1 Prepare your wool fabric

When you want to sew a warm coat, you often have the reflex to go for wool, a natural and well-insulating fiber that guarantees a quality project that will last over time. 

Wool requires preparation before starting your project to prevent it from shrinking in the future. The best method is to decat your wool coupon and for that there are several methods. 

Let's see this together! 

Methods to decat 

1. Decat with an iron

This is the method I use the most because anyone can easily do it in their workshop. For this, you will need:

• an iron
• a spray bottle
• a flat surface 

Method

1. Spread your fabric flat (without folds)

2. Lightly spray water on your fabric  

3. Very lightly pass your iron in steam mode over your fabric, having taken care to select the slider on the "wool" mode. 

4. Let your coupon dry flat so that the fibers tighten. Only move your coupon once the fabric is dry and cold, otherwise you risk deforming it.

2. Dry cleaning / pressing 

For those who do not want to do a decatissage in a workshop or who are afraid to start, the dry cleaning solution can help. 

When you drop off your coupon specify that it should not be "washed" but rather "steamed" (lightly) without folding it.

3. The London method 

This is the traditional method of London tailors.  

Method

1 Spread a large bath towel flat

2. Spread your fabric folded in two on top. 

3 Spray water on the fabric 

4 Roll the towel and the fabric together

5 Let the fabric dry. Allow at least 24 hours before unrolling. So plan your project a little in advance. 

2. Sew the wool

Thread choice

To sew your wool project, you can use your usual polyester thread. Use a quality thread like the Gütermann brand, Mettler... 

Needle choice

Remember the article on machine needles... The heavier/thicker the fabric, the larger the needle diameter (the number) must be.

The 80 needle is suitable for medium-weight wools. For thicker wools like those used for coats, it is preferable to switch to number 90. 

3. Iron the wool during the project

Wool is a fiber that shines easily if ironed for too long or too intensely. 

When ironing, it is therefore strongly recommended to use a damp cloth and to iron as much as possible on the wrong side of the fabric. 

Proceed with small presses and avoid prolonged back-and-forth movements of the iron that will leave irrecoverable marks. Consider yourself warned...

Top finishes for a coat or jacket!

1. Fully line the project

The classic finish par excellence but which gives a top result. Why not play with patterns to make your sewing project original and unique?

Preferably choose a lining made of natural fiber such as poplin cotton or cotton lawn, which is quite affordable financially, or if you can afford it, why not a silk lining? 
Cotton will act as a barrier between the wool and your skin while respecting the drape of your main fabric.  

2. Trim the seam allowances

I find that it is one of the most beautiful finishes when you choose not to line your project. Of course, it requires time and precision, but what beautiful finishes once the coat is opened!   

This method is perfectly suited for medium or heavy weight wool projects but it also has a distinguished touch for trench coat finishes. We will just avoid it on fabrics that are too light for fear that the bias tape will weigh down the seams and cause distortions.  

For this method, you will need 20mm or 27mm bias tape if your fabric is thick. 

3 Clip the seam allowances

This is obviously the fastest method but also the least elegant. It will be used on "small" projects and on wools that do not fray.

It can be useful for thick wools, like boiled wool.

For this method, you will need good quality pinking shears given the thickness to cut. 

4. Overlock the seam allowances

Like the method of clipping the seam allowances, overlocking is a quick but less high-quality method.

For this method, use your serger with three threads in the color closest to your fabric so that the overlock is as invisible as possible. 

5. Think about the details

I really like adding pretty details to my creations, and the little touch I love to add to my coats is partly the choice of lining (floral, geometric...) and the addition of piping along the facing. 

I like to contrast it or add a touch of sparkle with lurex piping. 

The choice of buttons or frog closures is also one of my favorite parts! 

And you, have you already sewn your coat or that of your loved ones?

Ready to get started this year?

Get your needles ready!