More and more coat patterns are available and well explained in haberdasheries, and maybe you, like me, have been tempted to make your own coat?

Maybe you wondered about the choice of pattern, supplies, techniques... and postponed this project indefinitely... Well, this article aims to give you the answers I wished I had when I started making my first coat a few years ago! 

So let's get started! 

1 Prepare your wool fabric

When you want to sew a warm coat, you often instinctively turn to wool, a natural and well-insulating fiber that guarantees a quality project that will last over time. 

Wool requires preparation before starting your project to prevent it from shrinking later. The best method is to decat your wool coupon, and there are several ways to do this. 

Let's look at this together! 

Methods for decatissage 

1. Iron decatissage

This is the method I use most because anyone can easily do it in their workshop. For this, you will need:

• an iron
• a spray bottle
• a flat surface 

Method

1. Spread your fabric flat (without folds)

2. Lightly spray water on your fabric  

3. Very lightly steam your fabric with your iron set to the "wool" setting. 

4. Let your coupon dry flat so the fibers tighten. Only move your coupon once the fabric is dry and cool, otherwise you risk deforming it.

2. Dry cleaning / pressing 

For those who don't want to do a decatissage in a workshop or are afraid to try, the dry cleaning option can help. 

When you drop off your coupon, specify that it should not be "washed" but rather "steamed" (lightly) without folding it.

3. The London method 

This is the traditional method used by London tailors.  

Method

1 Spread a large bath towel flat

2. Spread your fabric folded in half on top. 

3 Spray water on the fabric 

4 Roll the towel and the fabric together

5 Let the fabric dry. Allow at least 24 hours before unrolling. So plan your project a little in advance. 

2. Sew the wool

Thread choice

To sew your wool project, you can use your usual polyester thread. Use a quality thread like the Gütermann brand, Mettler... 

Needle choice

Remember the article about machine needles... The heavier/thicker the fabric, the larger the needle diameter (the number) should be.

The 80 needle is suitable for medium-weight wools. For thicker wools like those used for coats, it is better to switch to the 90 size. 

3. Iron the wool during the project

Wool is a fiber that easily shines if ironed too long or too intensely. 

When ironing, it is strongly recommended to use a pressing cloth and to iron as much as possible on the wrong side of the fabric. 

Proceed with small presses and avoid prolonged back-and-forth ironing that will leave irreparable marks. Consider yourself warned...

Top finishes for a coat or jacket!

1. Fully line the project

The classic finish par excellence but which gives a top result. Why not play with patterns to make your sewing project original and unique?

Preferably choose a lining made of natural fiber like poplin cotton or cotton lawn, which is quite affordable, or if you can afford it, why not a silk lining? 
The cotton will act as a barrier between the wool and your skin while respecting the drape of your main fabric.  

2. Overcast the seam allowances

I find that it is one of the most beautiful finishes when you choose not to line your project. Of course, it requires time and precision, but what beautiful finishes once the coat is opened!   

This method is perfectly suited for medium or heavy weight wool projects but also has a distinguished touch for trench coat finishes. We just avoid it on fabrics that are too light, as the bias tape might weigh down the seams and cause distortions.  

For this method, you will need 20mm or 27mm bias tape if your fabric is very thick. 

3. Clip the seam allowances

This is obviously the fastest method but also the least elegant. It will be used on "small" projects and on wools that do not fray.

It can be useful for thick wools, like boiled wool.

For this method, you will need good quality pinking shears given the thickness to cut. 

4. Overlock the seam allowances

Like the method of clipping seam allowances, overlocking is a quick but less refined technique.

For this method, use your serger with three threads in the color closest to your fabric so the overlock stitch is as invisible as possible. 

5. Think about the details

I really enjoy adding pretty details to my creations, and the little touch I love to add to my coats is, on the one hand, the choice of lining (floral, geometric...) and the addition of piping along the facing. 

I like to contrast them or add a touch of sparkle with lurex piping. 

Choosing the buttons or frog closures is also one of my favorite parts! 

And you, have you already sewn your coat or that of your loved ones?

Ready to get started this year?

Get your needles ready!