I had wanted for a while to expand the range of haberdashery and I’m super happy to be able to offer you a selection of zippers from the Japanese brand YKK of very fine quality.

So, I wanted to write an article on the subject of zippers because, as you may have noticed, there are many types and for different uses. 

So, let’s go, let’s dive into this world!

A little bit of history

The zipper, also called a slide fastener, zip (borrowed from English), or pull tab in Belgium, originated in the United States in 1851. Elias Howe had created a system of hooks and eyes to close a garment. It was somewhat an optimization of the corset system worn at the time. 

Then, in 1893, Whitcomb Judson filed a patent and began marketing his zipper based on the creation of his predecessor; but he did not achieve the expected success at the time.

It was only in 1912 that the American Gideon Sundback improved the system by creating a toothed gear and his famous slider allowing the zip to be easily opened and closed. The zipper was born!

Finally, in 1934, the company Yoshida Kogyo Kabushiki gaisha (YKK) was founded in Tokyo in the pleasant Nihonbashi district. At the time, its founder could not have imagined that it would one day become the global leader in the zipper market. Indeed, today YKK produces 7 billion zippers per year, which is half of the world’s production.

What is a zipper and what is it used for?

A zipper is a mechanical opening and closing system using a gear mechanism.

Its function is to open and close an opening such as a pocket, a bag, or to be able to put on a garment, for example the back zipper of a dress or to be able to put on a skirt.

Each type of zipper has a specific use:

• create an opening
• add some pep to a creation by contrasting the zipper color, with rhinestones, neon version
• making it invisible (undetectable)
• and sometimes it can be simply decorative

Anatomy of the zipper

Zippers are composed of:

• a top stop
• a bottom stop
• the tape (fabric strip holding the teeth)
• the teeth, which are offset to interlock when the slider passes
• the slider, also called the puller

The size of the zipper depends on the distance between the teeth, often between 4 and 8mm. The length is defined by the distance between the bottom and top stops. 

What are the types of zippers?

There are several types and classifications of zippers.

1. separable versus non-separable

The separable zippers allow the two sides on either side of the zipper to be completely separated. They are mainly used for jackets and coats. It will be visible on your creation, so you can be bold with its color by contrasting it or keep it subtle by matching the fabric tones. 

The non-separable zippers are those found in garments like skirts, dresses, pants... where you just want to temporarily widen an opening to put on the clothing. Both ends are locked. For this type of slider, it is recommended to choose a slider color as close as possible to your creation. If it is well sewn, you should only see the slider once it is closed (so it might as well be the same color as your piece). 

2. metal versus spiral

Zippers can have gear teeth like jeans zippers or spiral teeth, which are the most common. The spirals coil into each other.

There are many other types of closures as well, such as double-slider ones, molded ones...

What criteria should you use to choose it?

First, if you decide to make a sewing pattern, refer to the designer's instructions. Often, the materials are well detailed there.

The criteria for choosing the right zipper are very simple:

• For which garment do I need it? Does it need to open completely?
• What length is needed?
• What is its use? Does it need to be very sturdy? Should it have thick teeth?
• What color? 
• Should it be visible?

How to sew it?

To sew the zipper, there are two important feet to know: one for sewing invisible zippers and one for classic zippers (the same as for sewing piping).

If you bought a low-end sewing machine, you might not have received a foot for sewing invisible zippers. Don’t worry, you can usually order it from your specialty dealer. 

Whatever the type of zipper, when attaching it to fabric, sew only in the tape. Stitching into the teeth risks altering the gear, and you won't be able to open and close the slider anymore. Stitching into the stops or the slider often means the "death" of your needle, which will bend, curve, or even break. 

Tips and Tricks

1. Shortening your zipper

When you can't find the right zipper size for your project, it is possible to shorten an existing zipper.

Choose a zipper slightly longer than the desired measurement. Close the zipper and sew your own bottom stop. To do this, you need to pass several times through the zipper with a strong needle. Cut the remaining length between 1 and 2.5 cm below. 

2. Washing

Always wash your laundry with the zipper closed; this prevents damaging the teeth. 

3. Ironing

To avoid burning the teeth of your zipper, never iron the zipper itself. If you need to get very close to the edge with the iron, then protect the zipper with a clean cloth. 

4. Quality

Choose quality zippers that will last over time. Nothing is worse than no longer wearing a garment sewn with lots of love and time because the zipper is broken.