You have probably already heard about piping, bias tape, ribbons, trims, lace ribbons,... and you might say it’s not always easy to keep track of all these terms when you’re starting out in sewing. So today I invite you to discover a bit more about bias tape, an essential in garment making because it is multi-purpose! Let’s look at all this, here we go!
What is bias?
Bias tape is a narrow strip of fabric cut on the diagonal, that is to say at 45° to the grainline (the direction parallel to the fabric width). In fact, the strip is cut on the bias, now you know why this ribbon is called bias! Cutting this strip of fabric on the bias gives it some elasticity/flexibility which will be very useful for sewing it into the curves of our garment. And that is also why you never cut bias tape along the fabric grain.
You can try the exercise by taking a piece of fabric and pulling it in the direction of the straight grain, then pulling it in the bias direction. You will feel that the resistance and elasticity of the fabric differ greatly depending on the direction of the stretch.
This fabric strip usually measures 4cm, but you can find wider or narrower biases depending on the intended use. To fulfill its general use as bias, this fabric strip is folded twice:
- a first time in the middle lengthwise (wrong side of fabric against wrong side).
- a second time on each side (wrong side of fabric against wrong side).
As you can see in photo 2, the fabric strip folds somewhat onto itself. If you have a 4cm fabric strip, once folded you will have a 2cm bias on each side. And once sewn (using the saddle stitch bias technique), you will see 1cm of bias on the right side of your fabric, and 1cm of bias on the wrong side of your fabric.
What is it used for?
Unlike piping which has only a decorative purpose, the bias is fully integrated into the finishes of a garment. It can also have an aesthetic or fancy purpose but this is generally secondary.
"Bias tape in its general use serves to neatly finish a raw edge of fabric."
The bias can be placed to finish:
- the neckline or armhole of a garment
- to place around a bib, a bath towel, a kitchen apron ... to finish the edges
- the inner facings of a garment for a chic effect
- the seam allowances inside a coat so that it is as beautiful on the inside as on the outside; this is called binding
- a skirt or pants hem
- ...
Bind the seams of a Criollo coat from Maison Fauve
Finish a facing with flair on the Mimoi Patterns dress
Finish a facing in a chic way on the Elle dress from LMV
How to sew it?
Sewing bias tape requires precision. Today let's see how to sew bias tape "à cheval" which is its general and most common use; even though bias tape can be used in many other ways.
To sew bias tape correctly, you need to sew in two steps; this is the technique I used to finish the facing of my Elle dress from La Maison Victor.
1. Fully open the bias tape and pin it right sides together; edge to edge with your fabric (raw edge against raw edge).
2. Sew with a straight stitch in the first fold; the one closest to the edge of the fabric. For this, adjust the distance to follow carefully and be precise. If you are a beginner, set your machine speed to the lowest to be very precise. Once confident, you can increase the speed again.
3. Once the first seam is done, fold the bias tape to the other side of the fabric. The edge should cover the first seam made. Pin your bias tape. For more precision, you can baste it.
4. Stitch on the right side of the bias tape (right side of the fabric) at 2mm.
Note: there are presser feet on the market that allow sewing the bias tape in one stitch "à cheval" (overlapping). I admit that even if it takes more time, I am quite in favor of sewing in two steps which allows better durability over time (because of two seams) for finishing armholes which are still subject to tension...
Where to find bias tape?
Bias tape is sold ready to use in haberdashery, that is to say pre-folded. I also sell it in the shop in 100% superior cotton and lurex; of Italian manufacture and quality, they are sold at very reasonable prices.
Be careful, the bias tape is not pre-washed before sewing. It is sold ready to use. However, what you can always do and what I recommend is to decatize it, that is, to steam iron it to remove the manufacturing finishes. It will then be more flexible, easier to position and sew.
It is also possible to make your own bias tape. In that case, don't forget to allow extra fabric to make your bias tape from the same fabric as your garment.
