You have probably already heard about piping, bias, ribbons, trims, lace ribbons,... and you might say it’s not always easy to keep track of all these terms when you’re new to sewing. So today I invite you to discover a bit more about bias, an essential in sewing because it’s multi-purpose! Let’s explore it all, here we go!
What is bias?
The bias is a narrow strip of fabric cut on the diagonal, that is, at 45° to the grainline (the direction parallel to the fabric width). In fact, the strip is cut on the bias, now you know why this ribbon is called a bias! Cutting the fabric strip on the bias gives it some elasticity/flexibility which is very useful for sewing it into the curves of our garment. And that’s also why we never cut bias strips along the grainline of a fabric.
You can try this by taking a piece of fabric and pulling it along the grainline, then pulling it along the bias. You will feel that the resistance and stretch of the fabric differ greatly depending on the direction of the stretch.
This fabric strip usually measures 4cm, but you can find wider or narrower bias depending on the intended use. To fulfill its general use as bias, this fabric strip is folded twice:
- a first time in the middle lengthwise (wrong side of fabric against wrong side).
- a second time on each side (wrong side of fabric against wrong side).
As you can see in photo 2, the fabric strip folds somewhat onto itself. If you have a 4cm fabric strip, once folded you will have a 2cm bias on each side. And once sewn (using the double-fold bias technique), you will see 1cm of bias on the right side of your fabric, and 1cm of bias on the wrong side of your fabric.
What is it used for?
Unlike piping, which has only a decorative purpose, the bias is fully integrated into the finishing of a garment. It can also have an aesthetic or fancy purpose, but this is usually secondary.
"The bias in its general use serves to neatly finish a raw fabric edge."
The bias can be used to finish:
- the neckline or armhole of a garment
- to place around a bib, a bath towel, a kitchen apron... to finish the edges
- the inner facings of a garment for a chic effect
- the seam allowances inside a coat so that it looks as beautiful on the inside as on the outside; this is called binding
- a skirt or pants hem
- ...
Bind the seams of a Criollo coat from Maison Fauve
Finish a facing with flair on the Mimoi Patterns dress
Finish a facing in a chic way on the Elle dress from LMV
How to sew it?
Sewing bias tape requires precision. Today, let's see how to sew bias tape "on the fold," which is its general and most common use; although bias tape can be used in many other ways.
To sew bias tape correctly, you need to sew in two steps; this is the technique I used to finish the facing of my Elle dress from La Maison Victor.
1. Fully open the bias tape and pin it right sides together; edge to edge with your fabric (raw edge to raw edge).
2. Sew with a straight stitch in the first fold; the one closest to the fabric edge. Adjust the seam allowance carefully and be precise. If you are a beginner, set your machine speed to the lowest to be precise. Once confident, you can increase the speed again.
3. Once the first seam is done, fold the bias tape to the other side of the fabric. The edge should cover the first seam. Pin your bias tape. For more accuracy, you can baste it.
4. Stitch on the right side of the bias tape (right side of the fabric) at 2mm.
Note: there are presser feet on the market that allow you to sew bias tape in one stitch "on the fold." I admit that even though it takes more time, I prefer sewing in two steps, which provides better durability over time (because of two seams) for finishing armholes that are subject to stress...
Where to find bias tape?
Bias tape is sold ready to use in haberdashery, meaning pre-folded. I also sell it in the shop in premium 100% cotton and lurex; made in Italy and of Italian quality, they are sold at very reasonable prices.
Be careful, bias tape is not pre-washed before sewing. It is sold ready to use. However, what you can always do and what I recommend is to steam it to remove the manufacturing finishes. This will make it more flexible, easier to position, and sew.
It is also possible to make your own bias tape. In that case, don't forget to allow extra fabric to make your bias tape from the same fabric as your garment.
