Today I'm answering a question I'm often asked: is it really worth washing fabric before sewing it?
For most fabrics, the answer is yes, absolutely! But let's look at the details together.
1. Know your fabric's composition.
The first thing to check when you buy fabric is its composition. Knowing what your fabric remnant is made of will help you work out whether:
- its composition suits the design you want to sew (for example, knit versus woven fabric)
- its body and drape suit the design
- you can wash it
- and, if so, at what temperature or on which wash programme.
The best approach is to follow the manufacturer's care advice. In our shop, you'll find the composition and the manufacturer's care instructions in each product description.
2. Why wash your fabric?
If the fabric's composition allows it to be washed, use the recommended programme.
"Wash your fabric remnant as you will wash the garment you plan to make from it"
The first reason is that fabric may shrink during its first wash. Natural fibres tend to tighten up when first washed. Good-quality cotton shrinks very little, while linen and wool can shrink a little more, sometimes by up to 10%. Washing your fabric is therefore important if you want to avoid finding that you can no longer fit into the garment you've taken such care to make...
The second reason is to remove the finish the manufacturer has applied to improve the fabric's appearance and feel. This finish gives the fabric a certain stiffness and helps stabilise it. Removing this layer before sewing lets you see the fabric's true drape and decide whether it has the fluidity you want for your garment.
The third reason is that your fabric may bleed dye and lose some colour. The fibres are saturated with pigments that dissolve in the wash water. Blue, black and red fabrics are the most likely to bleed. Who hasn't ended up with blue hands after handling a new pair of jeans?
You can help set the colour a little more with this traditional tip: soak your remnant for around 1 hour in a bucket of cold water with 200 ml of white vinegar. Make sure you mix the water and vinegar thoroughly before putting the fabric remnant in. After soaking, wash your fabric according to the care recommendations.
Finally, the fourth reason is that washing cleans the fabric and removes dust, microorganisms and anything else it may have picked up during manufacturing, transport or storage...
3. Drying
Take care with the spin cycle! Some fibres, such as silk and wool, cannot tolerate it. Check the fabric's composition carefully before selecting this programme, or you could end up with a doll-sized jumper!
Ideally, let your fabric remnants air-dry. Keep dark fabrics such as black and purple out of direct sunlight, as they tend to fade in the sun.
Wool should be dried flat to prevent it from losing its shape or developing a crease from the washing line.
4. Ironing
I recommend always ironing your fabrics, even if you plan to sew them later and put them away in your stash for now. Creases can form during washing and drying and may be difficult to remove without steam.
Another traditional tip: store your fabrics away from light with cedarwood balls or blocks, which keep moths away and smell much nicer than mothballs ;-)
And if you're going to sew your remnant straight away, ironing will prevent unwanted creases when you cut out your pattern, helping you avoid cutting wonky pieces.
5. Cutting and sewing
Finally, the most enjoyable part arrives ;-)
You've spent a little time preparing, but you'll save so much time when sewing.
One last tip: don't forget to overcast the edges of your pieces to keep them from fraying too much and help them last.
Happy sewing ;-)
