You know I love mixing embroidery and sewing, and when I saw the Sienna dress from Atelier Jumadi, I thought there was an opportunity to seize! 

I had spotted the Sienna model, a jumper dress from Julia's latest Atelier Jumadi collection. I really liked the very feminine cut with the emphasis on our curves thanks to the use of panels.

These panels also inspired me a lot to create a sashiko embroidery.

So I took the plunge without a safety net to create my dress!

I share my sewing and embroidery adventure here! 

The model

The Sienna dress is the perfect dress for playing with clothing layers, so classic in the flat country that is mine.

In denim, corduroy, or fine wool fabric, this versatile piece can be worn alone or as an overdress over a light sweater or top to create layered looks. The Sienna dress stands out with front and back panels highlighted by contrasting topstitching, adding a touch of character to this V-neck model.

The armhole finishes are made with invisible bias tape, for a neat and elegant result.
Ideal for mid-season, the Sienna sewing pattern is suitable for intermediate sewers or motivated beginners. Its invisible side zipper is the only technical step, making it both accessible and elegant.

Information for sewing this model

Sienna is a pattern from the French brand Atelier Jumadi.

You will find Sienna in PDF format with size layers on our website or in our physical store. 

The pattern is available in PDF A4 and A0. You can print only the size you need using the Adobe Acrobat PDF application. Seam allowances are included and visible on the pattern.

Sienna is available in a wide range of sizes: from 32 to 50. 

Julia rated the Sienna dress level at 2 out of 4, which corresponds to intermediate or confident beginner level. 

In the seamstress's basket

This dress should be sewn with a woven fabric that has body. It can therefore be made with the following materials: denim/jeans, corduroy or wide wale velvet, fine wool fabric, suede, faux suede, tweed, light or heavy gabardine.

My supplies and modifications

Sewing

I chose to make my version in a beautiful indigo denim.

I was able to fit all my pieces within one fabric width as Julia recommends. The Sienna dress is therefore very fabric-efficient. I graded the dress by making a size 36 for the bust and a 40 for the hips. That was a good choice because it fits perfectly on my hips with this adjustment. 

I chose to place the zipper at the back rather than on the side. So I picked a 60cm invisible zipper better suited for this placement. 

Indeed, even though it’s harder to open and close the zipper, I don’t like having a zipper under the arm. I find it uncomfortable and less attractive with the bias finish on the armholes.

Since I was going to have hidden bias along the armholes, I thought it would be nice to finish the facing with bias as well. So I made a double-fold bias for the facing finishes instead of an overlock stitch. I chose a patterned bias from my 20mm stash.

Embroidery

As I mentioned earlier, I wanted to enhance my creation with a pretty sashiko embroidery.

So I chose a white sashiko thread from the Olympus brand. White is the classic color with indigo, and for once, I stayed classic.

I consulted my pattern book and started embroidering. 

Technical stitches

To sew Sienna, you will need to:
- assembling the dress panels
- assembling and attaching the facing
- applying hidden bias tape on armholes
- installing an invisible zipper
- making hems
- topstitching seams. 

My sewing and embroidery experience

I printed, assembled, and cut my PDF pattern very quickly. Indeed, Sienna has only a few pieces and is very simple to put together.

Note that Sienna is quite fitted, so it’s important to refer to the size chart to properly adjust your pattern.

As I mentioned earlier, I made a size 36 for the top and graded up to a 40 at the hips. 

Next, I overlocked all the panels before assembling them. This step goes very quickly, and in just an hour you almost have a dress! 

After this panel assembly step, I decided to embroider my dress before moving on to the final sewing stages. I selected a traditional motif from my favorite book by Susan Briscoe, which you can also find in our physical store along with many other books on sashiko embroidery.

I started with a line of motifs along the princess seams on the front. My initial idea was to make this embroidery symmetrical; but after stitching the first line, I thought it would be much more modern to keep it asymmetrical. So I decided to embroider a line next to the first one. I’m really happy with how it turned out. 

Once the embroidery was finished, I resumed sewing and fittings. I had to take in the back because I have narrow shoulders. So we reduced the upper back and adjusted the shoulder drape before installing the zipper.

I recommend always trying on your projects during assembly; it allows you to make corrections as needed along the way. 

Once the zipper was installed, I focused on attaching the facing and setting the bias tape on the armholes and on the facings. 

Finally, I only had the hems left. 

Total time for this sewing project: 7h 

- sewing: 4h30 (1h pattern cutting, 1h panel assembly, 2h30 finishing: zipper, bias tape, adjustments...)
- embroidery: 2h30

I’m thrilled with my sewing project; it’s true that I love combining denim and sashiko; I find it always gives a great result!

We offer sashiko introductions and an advanced course to create your design using different transfer methods. Feel free to check out our course program here.

And if you’re in love with the Sienne dress, find all Julia’s patterns here. 

And what about you, are you interested in combining embroidery and sewing?

So all that's left to do is get started! Grab your needles!