Alix has long been one of my favorite dress models among all the patterns we offer in the shop.
In fact, it was featured in the article top 10 of my favorite summer dresses.
To tell you the truth, I was getting a bit tired of sewing it vicariously with my students in courses.
So, when my student Olga finished her magnificent Alix dress in washed linen, I told myself it was time I also had a lovely version of this gorgeous dress that enhances all body types!
So, I set off on a sewing adventure and invite you to discover my two versions of Alix from the wonderful patterns by the brand Cha Coud!
Here we go!
Pattern
Alix is a beautiful, feminine dress. It is long and fitted at the bust thanks to a defined waistband, with a lovely full skirt. It is a very clever pattern because it looks like a wrap dress with a faux-wrap neckline, while also featuring a slit (opened quite high) closed by a button placket on the side of the skirt; which is not possible in classic wrap dresses.
The pattern maker's trick also lightens the skirt by eliminating the double layer. The top of the shoulders is covered by a small godet ruffle, which elegantly finishes the lovely silhouette of the outfit. It might not show on the photos, but the bust, waistband, and shoulder ruffles are lined, which gives the garment a beautiful finish both outside and inside.
Plus, it is quite easy to modify:
- by removing the ruffles for those who would like an off-shoulder version
- by shortening it for a top or shorter dress version
- by closing the slit more, in which case you just need to add a few buttons
- ...
Linen version
Practical information for sewing the pattern
Alix is available from size 34 to 52 in Printed or PDF format on our website or directly in the shop.
Seam allowances are included and drawn on the pattern. This is quite rare and a bit confusing at first, but it turns out to be really practical if you need to grade accurately between several sizes. And last but not least: in PDF, the pages assemble edge to edge, no need to trim the print margins.
The indicated difficulty level is "intermediate". I agree with this information because this dress includes several interesting technical aspects. That said, a motivated beginner can also embark on sewing Alix, taking their time and making tests, or being guided by a teacher during courses.
In the seamstress's basket
Alix should be made in a light to medium weight woven fabric, for example: a cotton voile, a cotton poplin, a cotton lawn, an broderie anglaise, a cotton sateen, a Viscose poplin or twill, a lovely lyocell/tencel or even a washed linen or a linen/Viscose blend.
The pattern worn by Charlotte is a linen.
Depending on the chosen fabrics, you can really play with different drapes: swirly or heavier...
To make Alix, you will need:
- 2m50 of fabric in 1m40 width and 3m for sizes from 42 upwards. Note that Charlotte suggests using a fabric width of 140 up to size 42 and 150cm after that, or you will need to slightly reduce the fullness of the skirt.
- 50 cm of lining in 1m40 width for the bodice.
- 4 buttons of 25mm diameter or smaller if desired
- 1 shirt button to hold the bodice underneath
- fusible stay tape
- interfacing for the button placket
- thread matching the fabric
- Matching cones if you are using an overlocker.
To make life easier regarding sewing supplies, I advise you to equip yourself with:
- a tailor's chalk to mark the bust darts
- a buttonhole gauge for perfect spacing
- a buttonhole cutter
My versions
Having made Alix several times with my students, I knew that a bodice Toile would be necessary to get perfect adjustments for the bust.
A wrap bodice needs to be well fitted: if it's too small, the chest feels constricted; if it's too big, the neckline gapes; in both cases, you feel uncomfortable in your handmade garment!
So I decided to make a "wearable" Toile out of a leftover fabric piece from a 3m Remnant that I had left, which I had also used to make a Cha Coud pattern: the pretty Paula shirt!
Quick as a flash, I sewed a size 36 by shortening the skirt to create a small peplum.
After this wearable Toile, I made adjustments and chose to reduce by 1cm at the sides to fit a true size 34 better.
The size 36 fits me, but I find it is not fitted enough to define my waist and the bust doesn't offer enough support. This also means Alix has some ease; if you are between two sizes, you can size down for a fitted version or size up for a more comfortable or at least less contoured version.
For my final version, I chose a magnificent cotton/Viscose blend poplin that has been catching my eye ever since it arrived in the shop. The advantage of this blend is that the Viscose brings fluidity to the fabric while the cotton gives it structure for sewing.
So it is just as easy to sew as a cotton poplin!
A real joy!
My supplies
For the top version
I used my leftover 3m cotton poplin Remnant, navy blue thread, H200 interfacing, fusible stay tape, blue overlocker cones, and red buttons from my stash.
For the dress version
I used 2.5m of Poppy cotton/Viscose poplin fabric on a navy blue background, and 1m of navy blue poplin fabric to make the ruffles, waistband, and bust lining, navy blue thread, H200 interfacing, fusible stay tape, pink overlocker cones, and buttons.
Technical points
Alix features quite a few interesting technical points:
- bust dart
- construction of the outer bodices and lining with burrito method cap sleeve insertion,
- crafting button plackets on the skirts
- sewing the asymmetrical skirt waistband
- making buttonholes
- a hem.
Nothing insurmountable, but a nice challenge with very beautiful finishes!
