As I mentioned two weeks ago, we are far from finished sewing Coralie Bijasson patterns around here.
Why? Because they are beautiful, well-drafted, accessible thanks to immaculate step-by-step instructions, and can be worn for any occasion just by switching fabrics (plus, many models come in sizes 34 to 56 😊).
On my "to sew list", the Ermine blouse had been waiting for a long time.
I had sewn it and hacked it with my students to create long sleeves, reduce sleeve volume, simplify the lower body... in short, I had made it many times by proxy, but never for myself—what a frustration!
On top of that, two years ago, I brought back a remnant of Japanese embroidered fabric from my last trip to Japan specifically for this project... it was high time I got down to it!
Ready to discover my sewing adventure and the Ermine hack?
Let's go!
The pattern
Ermine is a pattern for a blouse with wide "balloon" sleeves and a waistband, featuring a wide round neckline.
It is a chic, feminine, and trendy blouse with its short "balloon" sleeves and sleeve cuffs.
I think it is truly a style suitable for all occasions and all ages, whether you are a teenager or already a grandma—it is a timeless and flattering piece.
Practical information
Ermine is available in our shop as a PDF in A4 and A0, and we have a few printed envelope patterns left (hurry, they are the very last ones!)
The instruction guide is very well designed, as always with Coralie Bijasson.
Sizes range from 34 to 48, corresponding to a bust measurement of 80 to 108 cm; which translates to a finished garment chest ease of 98 cm to 126 cm.
The indicated difficulty level is "intermediate". I agree with this assessment as this blouse features several interesting technical aspects. That being said, a motivated beginner can also take on sewing Ermine by taking their time, making test garments, or being guided by a teacher during courses.Furthermore, a more experienced sewist will also thoroughly enjoy hacking and transforming Ermine 😊
Seam allowances are included.
In the sewist's basket
Ermine is sewn using a light to medium weight woven fabric.
I recommend: cotton poplin, linen, linen-viscose, cotton sateen, cotton lawn and tana lawn, broderie anglaise and embroidered cottons, cotton voile... and why not test it in a lovely Double gauze?
To sew a pretty Ermine, you will need:
- fabric: 140 cm of 140 cm wide fabric,
- 4 x 14 mm buttons,
- about 70 cm of 4 cm wide bias tape for the neckline, made from fabric scraps or bought ready-made,
- matching thread,
- matching thread cones if you finish the seam allowances with an overlocker,
- fusible interfacing, if, like me, you want to interface the sleeve cuffs and waistbands.
My supplies
So, I had a small piece of red embroidered cotton from Japan waiting for me. Rather than cutting directly into it without making a Toile... I chose to sew a "wearable" Toile using leftover cotton poplin from a 3m remnant.
I had used it previously to sew a gorgeous Gabriella dress by Theodora Pattern; I am linking the article here if you want to take a look.
I wanted to confirm my sizing and test the hack of sewing little tie bows instead of making buttonholes on the waistband before cutting into my precious embroidered remnant.
For my second top, I added plain red poplin to create contrast on the sleeve cuffs and waistbands.
Technical skills
Ermine is rated as an intermediate level, offering several interesting technical elements:
- bust darts
- gathers at the sleeves and bodice
- creating sleeve cuffs and waistbands
- concealed bias tape neckline finish
- buttonholes on the waistband and sewing buttons for the original design
- making fabric ties if you choose the hack
My sewing experience
Unsurprisingly, I thoroughly enjoyed sewing my two little blouses. It must be said that I remain an unconditional fan of Coralie Bijasson's work.
Each was sewn in a short afternoon (allow around 4 hours for experienced sewists, a bit longer if you are a beginner).
I sewn my first version in size 34.
I shortened the bottom of the body by 5 cm to shorten the blouse slightly and adapt it to my petite 1.53 m frame. If you are taller, this adjustment is not necessary. It all depends on your back length ☺️.
On my first version, I did not shorten the sleeves, so the cuff falls just below the elbow. It bothers me a tiny bit when I bend my arm, so for version 2, I shortened the sleeves by 5 cm; this brings the sleeve above the elbow, which better suits my "active" life of lifting fabric bolts and organizing all kinds of things 😂.
For the first version, I made 4 ties measuring 1.5 cm wide. To do this, I cut fabric strips 5 cm wide by 27 cm long.
I pressed 1 cm inward along the entire length on both sides using
