As I said 15 days ago, we’re not done sewing Coralie Bijasson patterns around here.

Why? Because they are beautiful, well-patterned, accessible thanks to the carefully detailed assembly sequences, and they can be worn on all occasions by changing the fabrics (and moreover, many models come in sizes 34 to 56 😊). 

On my "to sew list," there had long been the Ermine blouse. 

I had sewn and hacked it with my students to make long sleeves, less volume in the sleeves, simplified for the lower body... in short, I had made it many times by proxy but never for myself, what a frustration! 

Also, I brought back, 2 years ago now, a coupon of embroidered fabric from Japan from my last trip specifically for this project... it was time to get to it! 

Ready to discover my sewing adventure and the Ermine hack?

Let's go! 

The model

Ermine is the pattern for a blouse with wide "balloon" sleeves and a belt, with a round and wide neckline.

It's a chic, feminine blouse that’s on-trend with its short "balloon" sleeves and sleeve cuffs.

I find that this is really a model suitable for all occasions but also for all ages, whether you're a teenager or already a grandma, it's a timeless and flattering model. 

Practical information

Ermine is available in our shop in PDF in A4 and A0, and we still have a few packets left (hurry, these are the last ones!)

The explanatory guide is very well done, as always with Coralie Bijasson. 

Sizes range from 34 to 48, which corresponds to a bust measurement of 80 to 108cm; for the finished garment, this corresponds to a bust ease of 98cm to 126cm. 

The indicated difficulty is "medium." I agree with this information because this blouse includes several interesting technical points. That said, a motivated beginner can also start sewing Ermine, taking their time and doing tests or being accompanied by a teacher in courses. 

Moreover, a more experienced sewer will also greatly enjoy hacking and transforming Ermine 😊

Seam allowances are included. 

In the seamstress's basket

Ermine is sewn in a lightweight to medium-weight woven fabric.

I recommend: cotton poplin, linen, linen-viscose, cotton satin, cotton lawn and tana lawn, broderie anglaise and embroidered cotton, cotton voiles... and why not try it in a pretty double gauze?

To sew a pretty Ermine, you will need:
- fabric: 140 cm by 140 cm wide,
- 4 buttons of 14 mm,
- about 70 cm of bias tape 4 cm wide for the neckline to make from fabric scraps or to buy ready-made
- matching thread
- matching cones if you serge the edges
- fusible interfacing, if you want, like me, to interface the sleeve bands and belts. 

My supplies

So I had a small red embroidered cotton from Japan waiting for me, and to avoid cutting into it without making a toile... I chose to make a "wearable" toile from a scrap of cotton poplin from a 3m coupon.

I had used it to sew myself a beautiful Gabriella dress from Theodora Pattern, I’m linking the article here if you want to check it out.

I wanted to confirm my size and also validate the hack of sewing small bows instead of making buttonholes on the belts; before cutting into my precious embroidered coupon. 

For my second top, I added solid red poplin to contrast the sleeve cuffs and belts. 

Technical points

Ermine is rated at an intermediate level, it contains interesting technical points:
- bust clips
- gathers at the sleeves and bust
- creation of sleeve cuffs and belt
- hidden bias for collar finishing
- buttonholes on the belt and sewing buttons if original pattern
- creation of ties if hack

My sewing experience

Well, no surprise, I loved sewing my two little blouses. I must say I remain an unconditional fan of the work of Coralie Bijasson.

Each was sewn in a short afternoon of sewing (count 4h for experienced sewers, a bit longer if you are a beginner). 

I sewed my first version in size 34.

I reduced the bottom of the body by 5cm to shorten the blouse a bit and adjust it to my small stature of 1.53m. If you are taller, this adjustment is not necessary. It all depends on the length of your back ☺️.

On my first version, I didn't shorten the sleeves, so the cuff falls a bit below the elbow. It bothers me just a little when I bend my arm, so for version 2, I shortened the sleeves by 5cm; this makes the sleeve fall above the elbow, which suits my "active" life of lifting fabric rolls and all kinds of tidying up better 😂.

For the first version, I sewed 4 ties 1.5cm wide. For this, I made ribbons 5cm wide and 27cm long.

I folded 1 cm along the entire length of both sides with an iron and then folded everything in half. Then just stitch this "fold"... a bit like a bias tape.

Then, I inserted the ribbons into the sides of the belts before attaching my belt to the body. 

For my version 2, I made the ribbons a bit wider at 2cm, so I cut strips of 6cm.

They are also longer and measure 35cm. Don't forget to fold the end of the tie inward on one of the short sides to have a nice finish. 

I'm delighted with my blouses; it's a simple and effective model just the way I like it.

It's a blouse I will happily wear every day.

I already have ideas for the next versions...😂

How about sewing Ermine?

Find all the patterns by Coralie Bijasson here.

Get your needles ready!