You hesitate to buy an overlocker because you often hear it is complementary to the sewing machine; but you might also be wondering what this machine is actually for?

I admit I also had questions and hesitated for a long time before buying mine. I wondered if I would use it enough to "justify" the investment in this relatively expensive machine. And then... fate had it that one was gifted to me! I first tamed it, and since then, I love using it. A few years later, I invested in a higher-quality model. 

So today, I invite you to discover the different uses of the overlocker. This way, you can assess if you will find it useful and if it's worth the investment.

Alright, let's go!

My two overlockers: the Brother Lock 2104-D and the Juki Kirei MO-214D

First, a bit of definition to understand what an overlocker is... and oh, Larousse tells us that an overlocker is a machine that allows overlocking... and that overlocking is sewing with an overlock stitch... you could have told me that!

But what does overlocking or making an overlock stitch mean?

Overlocking means making a tight stitch that overlaps two pieces of fabric to hold them together edge to edge. But you might say, well, like a sewing machine then! Yes, but not only that, because this machine also cuts the fabric edge at the same time as it sews and makes the overlock stitch. That means in a single step, the overlocker sews, edges the fabric, and trims the excess fabric. 

This is the big difference with the sewing machine, which requires several steps to join and edge fabrics. But let's go further in discovering this machine!

Anatomy of the overlocker

To understand the difference between a sewing machine and an overlocker, let's look at their differences together. 

An overlocker has, unlike a sewing machine:

• 1 knife made of two blades that cuts the fabric edge,
• 2 needles that can be used together (for overlocking) or separately (for edging, for example),
• 2 loopers that form the overlock loops,
• 1 differential drive mechanism allowing adjustment of the 2 feed dogs (front and back) 
• 3 or 4 cones/spools of thread used to make the stitches.

The serger is therefore a machine "a bit more complex" than the sewing machine in its anatomy. 

Usefulness of the serger

1. Overcast

This is the most used option when buying a serger. Overcasting allows you to create neat finishes on the raw edges of your woven fabrics using the 3-thread overlock stitch. This clean finish prevents the fabric from fraying. It is not an assembly stitch! A second step of sewing with a sewing machine will be necessary.

When overcasting, only one needle thread is used.

2. Overlock

The second most used option is the 4-thread overlock function, also called overlock. It is the signature stitch of the serger. It trims (with the knife the raw edges of the fabric), joins two fabrics together, and overcasts the fabric edges.

When overlocking with 4 threads, 4 threads and 2 needles are used. This stitch is reserved for knit fabrics. 

3. Making a rolled hem stitch

The rolled hem is a finishing stitch for fabric edges. It is done quite tightly and decorates the edge of a fabric. This stitch is ideal for finishing fine fabrics, whether woven or knit. 

You can adjust the stitch density and width, as well as the differential feed to create a lettuce edge rolled hem. To make this stitch, 3 threads are used and the serger’s knife is not engaged.

4. More specific uses

You can make a 2-thread flatlock stitch, also called flatlock. It is a decorative assembly stitch visible on the front of the fabric.

It is also possible to insert elastic with a serger, gather fabric, make piping, and also place it... 

Advantages of the serger and points of attention

As you can see, the serger has quite a fewadvantages.

1. First of all, it allows you to make a strong overlock stitch for assembly. Indeed, this stitch is much stronger than the simple zigzag stitch of the sewing machine.

2. The serger has a variety of useful finishing and assembly stitches: rolled hem, overlock stitch with 2, 3, or 4 threads.

3. The serger allows for very quick assembly since in a single step, it can assemble, overlock, and cut stretch fabrics. 

4. The finishes and seams are of very high quality; we can talk about professional finishes. 

However, it should also be noted Points of attention about the overlocker or its drawbacks

1. The overlocker only sews fabric edges. It’s not possible to sew in the middle of a fabric. 

2. Practice is necessary because threading an overlocker is complex. It’s not difficult but requires some training and patience at first.

3. The overlocker also requires adjustments (differential feed, tension, stitch length and width...) This again requires trials to optimize settings and get perfect finishes.

4. The overlocker uses a lot of thread (often 4 cones of thread) but that’s also why the seams are strong.  

5. The overlocker does not allow assembling woven fabrics; it only finishes the edges. 

6. Depending on the chosen brand, the overlocker can be very noisy. So it’s worth testing!

So why buy an overlocker and who is it for?

Do you want perfect finishes for your woven fabrics?

Do you sew a lot of knits: jersey, sweatshirt fabric, stretchy velour...?

Do you like rolled hem finishes?

So an overlocker is recommended! However, if you are a complete beginner in sewing, start by buying a sewing machine and mastering it before getting an overlocker. 

Conclusions and further steps

Today, I couldn’t do without my overlocker. It’s a real asset in my workshop. I make sweatshirts, tee-shirts, and all my overlocked woven fabrics...

If you want to buy one, I recommend going through a retailer to try several and find your favorite "brand or model." Nothing beats testing!

To go further in using the overlocker, I recommend two books that have become bibles for me. 

The first is "Sewing Stretch" by Marie Poisson and the second is "Overlocker and Coverstitch Sewing Guide" by Chrystelle Beneytout and Sandra Guernier.