Once is not customary, I decided to talk to you about 2 superb Japanese sewing books. The author is Tomoe Shinohara who is not unknown as she is a former singer turned fashion designer. This career change suits her since she has already written three books, including one for children, which have been very successful. I will focus on the two books for adults which gather pretty dresses that I really liked and were inspiring.
A big difference in Tomoe's design compared to the usual Japanese pattern; is that her patterns are fitted. Usually, in Japanese sewing, the patterns are loose and correspond to the expectations of the Japanese people.
Here, Tomoe breaks with this dogma and offers us dresses with very fitted sizes. You must therefore pay attention to the size chart because it corresponds to Asian measurements which differ from Caucasian (European) measurements.
The patterns are offered from size S to XL with:
- bust circumference between 89 and 98cm
- waist circumference between 67 and 76 cm.
The ease values are also smaller than those used in Europe; so it fits "small".
The patterns offered by Tomoe have a retro/vintage side that I immediately liked.
Moreover, the patterns offered are colorful and the fabrics are tastefully chosen. In the first volume, Tomoe takes us on a visit to Tokyo's Fabric Town, namely the Nippori district. It is there that she sourced fabrics to offer us her collection.
For my part, I fell for several dresses in the different volumes.
Below you will find a fitted dress, with box pleats and tulip sleeves. I chose a Japanese floral fabric in 100% cotton from Mihama. This pattern comes from volume 1 (the red book).
The pattern sheets gather all the patterns. You must therefore be very careful when copying the pieces to closely follow the instructions. Moreover, some pieces are reused in different patterns, so it is very useful to correctly annotate the pieces. Seam allowances are not included on the pattern sheet. They must be added according to the instructions of the different patterns. It's quite simple to follow but you have to be conscientious.
The assembly instructions, although in Japanese, are easy to understand.
Indeed, a richly illustrated step-by-step explains the key assembly stages of all the dresses by following the assembly of the first dress. Then, the model explanations are simplified to the steps that differ from model 1.
Below, a white crepe dress decorated with red fans and small black cats. This dress is from volume 2. It consists of a bustier and a circle skirt (cut in 4). I made a rolled hem with the serger to finish the bottom of the dress and give it a light and airy side.
What I like about these books is the variation that Tomoe offers us starting from a single pattern, we branch out by changing:
- the bodice to make a wrap dress
- the skirt to make pleats, a peplum, ...
- the collar by adding a sailor collar
- the back by adding a button placket...
In short, the variations are numerous and fun to make.
I also appreciate that several styles of long or short sleeves are offered:
- puffed
- tulip
- cap sleeves
- butterfly
- no sleeves and finished with bias tape...
Below one of my favorites from book 2 with butterfly sleeves and obi belt.
The chambray fabric comes from Nomura in Kyoto. The skirt is a wrap skirt.
Tomoe also offers to make accessories like bags, hats, brooches...
I admit I have not yet tested their creations, so I will not comment on that.
Below, my version of the green checkered dress imagined by Tomoe. It is made of beige cotton decorated with spirals of small white and silver flowers. I love the butterfly sleeves and its circle skirt that twirls ;-)
The fabric comes from Kyoto from the Yuzawaya shop.
I often receive many compliments when I wear these dresses and it makes me want to make more. The next one will be the wrap dress. And I promise, I will show you the result.
If you like this book, you can find it in a specialized shop (Japanese bookstore) that can order it. Books are also often sold from Japan on Ebay for around 18 to 25 euros.
