When starting out in sewing and even when more experienced, the choice of fabric for your project remains a crucial question. Indeed, the outcome of a garment can be very different depending on the fabric chosen... sometimes for the better but also sometimes for the worse despite care taken in your making. So, to help you see more clearly, I have gathered the 7 criteria I review before pairing a pattern and a fabric.

"A successful garment comes from a well-chosen fabric"

First criterion: the sewing pattern instructions

Unless you are a designer, there is a good chance you will turn to a commercial pattern to make your sewing project.

I strongly encourage you to read the designer’s recommendations. Usually, a list of suitable fabrics for the model is provided in the tutorial / assembly steps. This list was not made at random; it takes into account the ease of the pattern, the desired look of the model by the designer, the intended style criteria...

Of course, you can deviate from these recommendations and be more creative; but this requires a good knowledge of fabrics (composition, stretch, drape...) and any possible adjustments to make on the pattern (for example, adding a zipper, choosing a larger size...).

Second criterion: woven or knitted?

I often divide fabrics into two main groups based on their production method:

• warp and weft which are fabrics whose fibres have been woven in a well-defined weave
• knits which are fabrics whose fibres have been knitted

The biggest difference between these two types of fabric is their elasticity. A knit fabric can stretch, while a warp and weft fabric naturally has little elasticity (except a bit on the bias). To add elasticity to a warp and weft fabric, elastane fibres can be added, for example in the denim you will find in my shop. This addition of elastane allows for some comfort.

In principle, patterns clearly state the type of fabric needed and whether elasticity is required or not.

Third criterion: the type of fibres

The type of fibres can be a very important criterion for every sewer. Indeed, each type of fibre has particular properties.

To simplify, we will divide fibre types into two main groups:

• Natural fibres are obtained by physical and/or mechanical transformations of a natural material without changing its composition. This group includes fibres from the plant world: cotton, linen, hemp, ramie... and fibres from the animal world: wool, silk...

• Chemical fibres are divided into two subfamilies: artificial fibres and synthetic fibres. Artificial fibres are obtained by chemical transformation of natural substances often cellulose, the best-known example being viscose but you will also find in this category modal, lyocell, viscose/viscose jersey.
  Synthetic fibres come from chemical products often derived from hydrocarbons. This family includes: polyester, nylon, acrylic, lycra...

In the shop, I have chosen to preferentially offer fabrics containing natural or artificial fibres. Beyond the ecological aspect, these fibres are often easier to sew, breathable, and last longer over time. These are criteria important in choosing fabrics for my own creations and I wanted my shop to align with these values.

Fourth criterion: fabric behaviour: structure, drape, elasticity, weight...

Not all fabrics will have the same visual effect.

Poplin and cotton fabrics will have a more structured effect which is perfect for making blouses and pleated skirts, creations that require volume.

Viscose on the other hand will have a heavier, denser but also more fluid drape which is perfect for dresses, flowing trousers, drapes...

Similarly, a 100% cotton denim will be stiffer than the same denim containing 5% elastane...

Also, the weight of a fabric will change the effect:

• very thin and very light fabrics: voile, organza, crepon, tulle...
• thin and light fabrics: poplin, batiste, cotton satin, cotton plumetis, broderie anglaise, ...
• medium fabrics: viscose, crepe, jersey, cotton fabric...
• thick and heavier fabrics: chambray, denim, corduroy, terry cloth, french terry...

It is therefore important to carefully read product sheets to avoid mistakes when purchasing.

Fifth criterion: labels (and their price)

Ecological and regional labels are increasingly important in fabric choice. Ecological labels like Oeko-tex and GOTS are the two best known. I wrote an article on this topic which you can find on the blog. It is true that this can be a criterion for choosing fabric for your sewing projects especially if the fabric is intended for children’s creations, for hygiene, or to be in contact with food... It depends on each person’s sensitivity.

It is also necessary to point out that all these measures to produce cleaner, to use organic natural fibres naturally come at a higher price than conventional production. This is also a choice criterion to consider.

In the shop, you will find some GOTS fabrics with a good quality/price ratio which was important to me and the vast majority of our fabrics are certified at least Oeko-tex (Atelier Brunette, Dashwood Studio, fabrics with Belgian patterns, our jerseys, plain poplins...)

Sixth criterion: use and care

Yes, use... a very important criterion to consider... I invite you to think about the future of a garment.

For example, there is no problem wanting to make an evening / wedding dress in silk because you know you will not wear it often but choosing silk might be risky for making a blouse to wear to the office when you have two young toddlers... In short, if you plan to wear and use your clothes because you cherish your homemade garments, choose textiles that will last over time, that will be durable and that you can care for easily.

Always think about the garment’s use and the "risks" it will have to face.

Seventh criterion: the crush

The seventh but also the most important when choosing a fabric is above all that you like it. The pattern, the feel, the drape... everything that makes a fabric put stars in our eyes and makes us want to make a garment that we will wear with joy and a smile.

I hope these 7 criteria will help you choose your fabrics better to make sewing projects you will love. And if you want to go further in fabric knowledge, I invite you to discover Rebecca Deraeck’s book, the link to the article is here.

Happy sewing to you!