When starting out in sewing and even when more experienced, choosing the fabric for your project remains a crucial question. Indeed, the look of a garment can be very different depending on the fabric chosen... sometimes for the better but also sometimes for the worse despite the care taken in your making. So, to help you see more clearly, I have gathered the 7 criteria I review before pairing a pattern with a fabric.

"A successful garment starts with a well-chosen fabric"

First criterion: the sewing pattern instructions

Unless you are a designer, there is a good chance you will use a commercial pattern to make your sewing project.

I strongly encourage you to read the designer’s recommendations. Usually, a list of suitable fabrics for the model is provided in the tutorial/assembly steps. This list is not random; it takes into account the ease of the pattern, the look desired by the designer, the intended stylistic criteria...

Of course, you can deviate from these recommendations and be more creative; but this requires a good knowledge of fabrics (composition, elasticity, drape...) and any modifications to be made to the pattern (for example, adding a zipper, choosing a larger size...).

Second criterion: woven or knitted?

I often divide fabrics into two main groups based on their production method:

• warp and weft, which are fabrics whose fibers have been woven in a defined weave structure
• knits, which are fabrics whose fibers have been knitted

The biggest difference between these two types of fabric is their elasticity. A knit fabric can stretch, while a warp and weft fabric naturally has little elasticity (except a bit on the bias). To add elasticity to a warp and weft fabric, you can add elastane fibers, for example in the denim you will find in my shop. This addition of elastane provides some comfort.

In principle, patterns clearly specify the type of fabric needed and whether elasticity is required.

Third criterion: the type of fibers

The type of fibers can be a very important criterion for every sewer. Indeed, each type of fiber has particular properties.

To simplify, we will divide fiber types into two main groups:

• Natural fibers are obtained by physical and/or mechanical transformations of a natural material without changing its composition. This group includes fibers from the plant world: cotton, linen, hemp, ramie... and fibers from the animal world: wool, silk...

• Chemical fibers are divided into two subfamilies: artificial fibers and synthetic fibers. Artificial fibers are obtained by chemical transformation of natural substances, often cellulose, the best-known example being viscose, but you will also find in this category modal, lyocell, viscose/viscose jersey.
  Synthetic fibers come from chemical products, often derived from hydrocarbons. This family includes polyester, nylon, acrylic, lycra...

In the shop, I have chosen to preferentially offer fabrics containing natural or artificial fibers. Beyond the ecological aspect, these fibers are often easier to sew, breathable, and last longer over time. These are important criteria in choosing fabrics for my own creations, and I wanted my shop to align with these values.

Fourth criterion: fabric behavior: structure, drape, elasticity, weight...

Not all fabrics will have the same visual effect.

Poplin and cotton fabrics will have a more structured effect, perfect for making blouses and pleated skirts, creations that require volume.

Viscose, on the other hand, will have a heavier, denser but also more fluid drape, perfect for dresses, flowing pants, drapes...

Similarly, a 100% cotton denim will be stiffer than the same denim containing 5% elastane...

Also, the weight of a fabric will affect the look:

• very thin and very light fabrics: voile, organza, crepon, tulle...
• thin and light fabrics: poplin, batiste, cotton satin, cotton plumetis, broderie anglaise, ...
• medium fabrics: viscose, crepe, jersey, cotton fabric...
• thick and heavier fabrics: chambray, denim, corduroy, terry cloth, french terry...

It is therefore important to carefully read product sheets to avoid mistakes when purchasing.

Fifth criterion: labels (and their price)

Ecological and regional labels are increasingly important in fabric choices. Ecological labels like Oeko-tex and GOTS are the two best known. I wrote an article on this topic that you can find on the blog. It is true that this can be a criterion for choosing fabric for your sewing projects, especially if the fabric is intended for children’s creations, for hygiene, or for contact with food... It depends on individual sensitivity.

It is also important to note that all these measures to produce cleaner, to use organic natural fibers naturally come with a higher price than conventional production. This is also a choice criterion to consider.

In the shop, you will find some GOTS fabrics with a good quality/price ratio, which was important to me, and the vast majority of our fabrics are certified at least Oeko-tex (Atelier Brunette, Dashwood Studio, Belgian patterned fabrics, our jerseys, plain poplins...)

Sixth criterion: use and care

Yes, use... a very important criterion to consider... I invite you to think about the future of a garment.

For example, there is no problem wanting to make an evening or wedding dress in silk because you know you won’t wear it often, but choosing silk might be risky for making a blouse to wear to the office when you have two young toddlers... In short, if you plan to wear and use your clothes because you cherish your homemade pieces, choose textiles that will last over time, that will be durable and easy to care for.

Always think about the garment’s use and the "risks" it will face.

Seventh criterion: the crush

The seventh but also the most important when choosing a fabric is above all that you like it. The pattern, the feel, the drape... everything that makes a fabric put stars in our eyes and makes us want to create a garment we will wear with joy and a smile.

I hope these 7 criteria will help you choose your fabrics better to create sewing projects you love. And if you want to go further in fabric knowledge, I invite you to discover Rebecca Deraeck’s book, the link to the article is here.

Happy sewing to you!