On the occasion of the arrival of Atelier Brunette and Dashwood Studio viscoses, I wanted to introduce you to the world of this material that was called artificial silk at the beginning of the last century. Indeed, it has many similarities with this expensive fabric that was not affordable for everyone. Since then, viscose has spread and can be found in mass retail and of course in haberdashery. 

Let's get started!

What is viscose?

Viscose is a regenerated fiber made from cellulose. Not glamorous said like that... Indeed, viscose is what is called an artificial chemical fiber, meaning its production is done chemically but from natural fibers. 

So we can say that viscose shares with cotton and linen the fact that it comes from natural fibers (cellulose) and shares with polyester the fact that it is obtained through chemical processing. 

The patent for the invention of viscose was filed in 1892 by two English chemists, Cross and Bevan, who were working on wood fibers. In 1892, they managed to create a viscous bath they called viscose... still not glamorous... In 1898, the first threads were created from this wood pulp, allowing fabrics to be woven quickly that would compete with silk.

After the First World War, viscose spread and gradually became a wardrobe essential. 

What are its advantages?

Besides the fact that viscose is cheaper to produce than silk, it also has advantages:

• It is breathable, unlike polyester
• It has a beautiful drape with a heavy fall
• It is smooth, silky, and soft
• It is light and comfortable
• It does not build up static electricity

Viscose fiber can be woven or knitted, so you will find several types of fabrics with different characteristics:

• Viscose / rayon 
• Heavier viscose crepe 
• Viscose jersey and its beautiful stretch that will allow you to make stunning blouses and t-shirts
• ...

What are the key points to note?

The silky aspect of viscose makes it a very fluid and slippery fabric when sewing. For slippery and fluid fabrics, you can stabilize them using a starch spray (like when ironing shirts). 

Viscose is sensitive to light. It is recommended to store your coupons away from light to avoid marks. It is also sensitive to humidity and can mold. It is therefore important to store coupons and finished garments in a very dry place. 

Viscose can also shine when ironed. It is therefore necessary to moderate the temperature of your iron and not to "press" too long in the same spot. 

What to sew with viscose?

With viscose and viscose crepe, you can sew so-called "warp and weft" patterns. Viscose is perfect for sewing pretty blouses and flowing dresses with loose cuts.

With viscose jersey, you can make blouses, tops, and flowing t-shirts with a nice drape. 

What sewing skill level is it suited for?

Due to its fluidity and "slippery" nature, viscose is not really for sewing beginners; you’ve probably figured that out.

After mastering sewing techniques and completing a few projects in cotton, double gauze, velvet... why not take on the challenge of sewing viscose? 

What materials and techniques to sew it?

For viscose and crepe, a standard needle size 70 or even 80 works very well. 

For neat finishes and matching patterns, it is sometimes necessary to baste. I recommend this if you need to make very precise matches.

Viscose is a fabric that can fray, so I recommend overlocking your pieces or even better, using French seams. The finishes will be much nicer.

For viscose jersey, refer to the materials needed for sewing jersey. 

How to care for it?

Viscose usually requires washing on a "delicate laundry" cycle, preferably at 30°C.

It cannot withstand the tumble dryer and prefers to air dry. 

I hope these tips will help you sew your summer projects!