Sewing the viscose...

With the arrival of Atelier Brunette and Dashwood Studio viscose fabrics, I wanted to introduce you to this material, which was known as artificial silk at the beginning of the last century. It shares many qualities with that expensive fabric, which wasn't within everyone's reach. Since then, viscose has become widespread and is now found in high-street clothing as well as in fabric shops.

Let's get started!

What is viscose?

Viscose is a fibre regenerated from cellulose. That doesn't sound very glamorous... It is what is known as a manufactured regenerated fibre: it is produced through a chemical process, but from natural fibres.

So viscose shares with cotton and linen its origin in natural fibres, cellulose, while it shares with polyester the fact that it is obtained through chemical processing.

The patent for the invention of viscose was filed in 1892 by two English chemists, Cross and Bevan, who were working on wood fibres. In 1892, they managed to create a viscous solution that they called viscose... Still not very glamorous... In 1898, the first threads were produced from this wood pulp, soon allowing fabrics to be woven that would compete with silk.

After the First World War, viscose became more widespread and gradually established itself as a wardrobe essential.

What are its advantages?

Besides being cheaper to produce than silk, viscose has several advantages:

• It is breathable, unlike polyester
• It has a beautiful, weighty drape
• It is smooth, silky and soft
• It is light and comfortable
• It doesn't build up static electricity

Viscose fibres can be woven or knitted, so there are several types of fabric with different characteristics:

• Viscose / rayon
• Viscose crêpe, which is heavier
• Viscose jersey, with its lovely stretch, for making beautiful blouses and T-shirts
• ...

What should you watch out for?

The silky nature of viscose makes it very fluid and rather slippery to sew. You can stabilise slippery, fluid fabrics with starch spray, just as you would use when ironing shirts.

Viscose is sensitive to light, so store your fabric remnants away from light to prevent marks. It is also sensitive to moisture and can develop mould. It's therefore important to keep both remnants and finished garments somewhere dry.

Viscose can also become shiny when ironed. Keep your iron at a moderate temperature and avoid pressing the same spot for too long.

What can you sew with viscose?

With viscose and viscose crêpe, you can sew patterns designed for woven fabrics. Viscose is perfect for lovely flowing blouses and dresses with relaxed shapes.

With viscose jersey, you can make flowing blouses, tops and T-shirts with a lovely drape.

What sewing level is it suitable for?

As you've probably gathered, viscose's fluid, slippery nature means it isn't the first fabric to choose when you're new to sewing.

Once you have a good grasp of sewing techniques and a few projects in cotton, double gauze or velvet behind you, why not take on the challenge of sewing viscose?

What equipment and techniques should you use?

For viscose and viscose crêpe, a standard size 70 or 80 needle is very suitable.

For neat finishes and accurate joins, you may sometimes need to baste. I recommend doing so whenever you need very precise matching.

Viscose can fray, so I recommend overcasting your pieces or, better still, using French seams. Your finishes will be all the more beautiful.

For viscose jersey, use the equipment recommended for sewing jersey.

How should you care for it?

Viscose usually needs a delicate wash cycle, preferably at 30°C.

It doesn't tolerate tumble-drying and is best left to air-dry.

I hope these tips will help you sew your summer makes!