After sharing my top 10 favourite trousers for beginner and intermediate sewing levels, I’m continuing my selection with trousers aimed at sewists from an intermediate level upwards... or anyone who feels like taking on a challenge!
Because yes, we’re going to talk about fly fronts, pleats, welt pockets, front extensions, underlaps... 😂 all those words that can sound scary, and yet!
Sunshine by Iam Patterns, sizes 34 to 52.
There’s no other way for me to introduce it... it’s my favourite pair of jeans!
First, let’s talk about the cut of these jeans.
The Sunshine jeans come in 2 versions from Iam Patterns:
- a balloon (slouchy) cut
- a straight cut.
They have all the classic jeans details:
- front slash pockets,
- a coin pocket,
- patch pockets at the back,
- rivets,
- a fly front,
- a waistband with belt loops
- topstitching
In short, every hallmark of a proper pair of jeans! They also have a high waist that I find very feminine, with a lovely back yoke. They are available in our shops and on the website as both a paper pattern and PDF: sizes 34 to 52 as a PDF and sizes 36 to 46 as a paper pattern.
My “sparrow” version
Sewing the fly front
What’s great about Iam Patterns is that the finished garment measurements are provided. So you can use them to choose the size that suits you best, based not only on your body measurements but also on the fit you want (loose or close-fitting). It also lets you blend between sizes if, like me, you need to move between several sizes.
Sunshine can be sewn in a fabric with or without stretch, which is another real advantage because you can make it in denim, gabardine, needlecord...
Another thing I really enjoy when making my Sunshine jeans is hand-embroidering my arcuates 😉 and also using the pretty decorative stitches on my machine. What about you—do you like customising your jeans?
If you’d like to learn embroidery, we also have some fantastic classes dedicated to this topic here.
My sparrow
The jeans project in progress
Toffee by Lamericana, sizes 32 to 56
This is my favourite trouser pattern for making wide-wale corduroy trousers! Elisabeth from the French brand Lamericana created this design, along with lots of other trouser patterns. And there’s a reason for that: Elisabeth is a professional trouser pattern cutter.
Toffee is a trouser pattern you can make up either as jeans or as trousers! It can be sewn in 2 lengths: 7/8 length or ankle length.
What I liked about this design is the interesting detailing: lovely original front pockets, rounded back pockets and belt loops so you can add a belt. The rise is classic and the waistband has been designed to fit the waist perfectly.
You can turn it into an everyday pair of trousers, for any occasion, for work or for an evening out—and in wide-wale corduroy, the comfort is amazing! I approve 100%!
My first Toffee version
My Calao sweatshirt by Instinct Couture
Philippine by Coralie Bijasson in sizes 34 to 56
Discover the Philippine sewing pattern, designed to create high-waisted trousers or shorts with a jeans-style yoke at the back. This design features patch pockets at the front and back, adding both practicality and style.
The trouser legs have a “flare” cut, creating a flattering, on-trend silhouette with a 1970s feel.
Trousers or shorts made from the Philippine pattern combine a modern and retro aesthetic. The high waist flatters the silhouette, while the jeans-style back yoke adds character and a relaxed touch.
Choose comfortable, durable fabrics such as denim, corduroy or gabardine for a stylish, authentic look. Choose the Philippine sewing pattern and create fashionable garments that combine style and comfort for a unique wardrobe that reflects you. A versatile choice for every season and every occasion.
The Philippine trousers are available as a PDF in sizes 34 to 56, and we still have a few paper patterns left, so head over here.
Harmonie by Iam Patterns, sizes 34 to 52
Harmonie is a high-waisted trouser pattern designed to be worn in lengths ranging from shorts all the way to extra-long trousers, including culotte, 7/8 and classic lengths.
The shorts version can be lengthened with a turn-up.
Its increasing volume from the waist is created in particular by 4 flat pleats at the front, stitched down for a certain distance so they do not add bulk at the waist.
The direction of the pleats follows the widening of the hips, which I find very clever in the way it distributes the fabric.
As for pockets, Harmonie has four: two front slash pockets and two patch pockets at the back.
The straight waistband holds the trousers securely at the waist. It has generously sized belt loops and opens and closes with a fly front.
A true palazzo-style design, just the way we like them.
Find Harmonie in sizes 36 to 46 as a paper pattern and sizes 34 to 52 as a PDF here.
Marie’s version
Astau by Atelier Brizane, sizes 32 to 56
Astau is a sewing pattern for wide, high-waisted trousers, with beautiful leg volume created by a subtle combination of knife pleats and box pleats for a chic finish and a flattering cut! The lower leg is slightly flared, giving it a hint of a culotte shape for an ultra-feminine look.
The Astau wide-leg trouser pattern can be adjusted in length for either a maxi or culotte effect. And the pockets are invisible but definitely there! Suitable for every season depending on your fabric choice, it is a wardrobe essential! Astau is available only as a PDF in sizes 32 to 56 here.
Fauvette by Instinct Couture, sizes 32 to 52
Fauvette is a pattern—or rather a very useful pack of designs—to have in your pattern library because it contains so many variations! There is even a children’s version if you fancy creating a matchy-matchy look.
The basic version is a high-waisted sailor-style trouser pattern, opening at the front with 4 buttonholes on each side. You can sew a wide-leg trouser (with wide legs from the hips), a cut fitted to mid-thigh and then flared to create beautiful movement at the bottom of the leg. You can also sew a trouser with a more straight cut. But that’s not all! Fauvette is also a pair of shorts and a skirt!
The shorts version works just as well for summer as for autumn/winter with tights. Finally, you can sew a skirt, either more fitted (to be sewn in a stretch fabric) or in a straight cut.
Mock welt pockets decorate the back of the garment. To give your look a twist, you can choose to sew a bib and straps for a dungaree effect. You can also sew only the straps (straight or crossed at the back).
So there you have it: a wonderfully complete design that I’ve already enjoyed sewing in two versions.
Fauvette is available as both a paper pattern and PDF in sizes 32 to 52 here
Cobalt by Caledonia Dreamin’, sizes 32 to 52
The Cobalt Trousers/Shorts are unusual because they have no zip or fly front. They open and close through a concealed opening inside one of the pockets. They have a very high waist, are fitted through the top and, in the trouser version, flare dramatically through the legs.
Every finish has been designed so they look just as beautiful on the inside as on the outside—and I love that!
Cobalt is available in 3 variations:
- shorts
- straight-leg trousers
- wide-leg trousers
I really like the bias-bound finishes suggested for an especially neat inside.
I sewed the shorts version this summer and the trouser version is on my wish list 😉
Find Cobalt in sizes 32 to 52 as a PDF here
Facette by Caledonia Dreamin’, sizes 32 to 52
Facette is a panelled trouser pattern that lets you play with contrasting fabrics.
Its straight, slightly flared legs give your silhouette a retro look. It closes with a fly front and has large pockets incorporated into the leg panels. There is also a version without back panels, so you can make a more classic pair of jeans with patch pockets at the back. You choose!
It’s the perfect pattern for using denim in different shades, and I certainly won’t be passing up that opportunity!
Find Facette in sizes 32 to 52, available only as a PDF here
The Quinn carrot trouser pattern by Juliana Martejevs, sizes XS to 3XXL
The Quinn trousers are carrot/barrel trousers. They are roomy at the top and narrow at the bottom: tapered trousers, whether in corduroy or denim, are making a big comeback.
Tapered trousers get their name from their shape: the waistband sits at the waist, the cut is roomier around the hips and thighs and narrows towards the ankle, becoming much slimmer.
We love this original, on-trend cut.
Find the Quinn trousers in sizes XS to 3XL, available only as a PDF here
Impulse by Lamericana, sizes 32 to 50
We’re heading back to Elisabeth from Lamericana with her new design, Impulse!
Impulse is a pair of jeans designed as a statement piece. Structured, modern, with that rounded volume that instantly gives the silhouette character.
Sculpted line: the leg subtly rounds out before tapering towards the ankle to create the iconic barrel effect.
Strategic darts: at the knees and lower leg to enhance the curve and emphasise the construction.
Detailed pockets:
- At the front, slant pockets accompanied by a ticket pocket integrated into the panel seam.
- At the back, a yoke that highlights the curve of the lower back and two large patch pockets to balance the volume.
Straight waistband with 6 belt loops, including 2 at centre back for a perfect hold when worn with a belt.
A design that isn’t trying to be discreet. It structures. It makes a statement. It transforms a simple outfit into a confident look—and we love it!
Elisabeth is one of the queens of trousers, so we trust her with our eyes closed!
Find Impulse in sizes 32 to 50 here
Which fabrics should you choose to sew these gorgeous trousers?
It’s great having all these designs in mind, but come on Eugénie, what fabric am I supposed to use for my trousers?
Right then, let’s get started with our selection of the ideal fabrics for sewing your new favourite trouser patterns!
Wide-wale corduroy
Corduroy has become a wardrobe classic again in recent years... even if that didn’t look very likely at first...
Some people are still traumatised by the brown shorts and trousers of their childhood, while others thought corduroy made them look bigger, but it has carved out its place again—and we can only be happy about that!
Wide-wale corduroy is comfortable, pleasant against the skin and soft... a reassuring, substantial fabric that is perfect for winter as well as the transitional seasons. I’ve been wearing it happily for several years now!
Wide-wale corduroy is a very commonly used fabric. Despite its vintage side, wide-wale corduroy has made a strong comeback thanks to refreshed colours and more modern designs over time.
Corduroy is a fairly heavy fabric, ranging from 120 to 320 g/m2. In our shop, we stock some lovely wide-wale corduroys weighing 280 g/m2.
Even so, this fabric is especially soft to the touch and quite supple. It is warm and very hard-wearing. It has ribs, which can be narrower or wider.
Be careful to cut all your pieces in the direction of the nap 😉
Needlecord
When we talk about velvet and corduroy, you might picture stiff clothes, “old-fashioned” things, “period” wall hangings, theatre curtains or the trousers and shorts worn by scouts at the beginning of the last century... but don’t be fooled: today, corduroy is fashionable!
For several years now, corduroy has been back at the forefront of fashion. Thanks to its softness, texture and the new printed designs you can now find, needlecord brings originality to our garments and accessories alike!
What’s more, when temperatures fall, corduroy is a fantastic choice for sewing projects. It’s soft, beautiful, comfortable and comes in a huge range of colours... In short, it’s an excellent textile choice when you live in our dear Belgium!
I love using it in particular for dresses, jumpsuits/pinafores, winter skirts worn with tights and boots, and of course trousers for autumn. It is also an excellent choice for jackets, trousers, dungarees and shorts for children and adults alike.
Find all our needlecords here.
Heavy and lightweight gabardine
Gabardine is a strong, tightly woven fabric whose weave is recognisable by the visible diagonal lines on the right side—in other words, a twill!
Gabardine is therefore a twill with a particularly tight and dense weave.
Historically, the word gabardine comes from the Spanish gabardina, a long wool coat worn to protect against the cold. The word may also have roots in the Arabic qaba, which gave rise to the French word caban. What matters here is that gabardine originally referred to a wool fabric intended for coats. It was therefore expensive, dense and rather rough to the touch. To achieve a softer feel and a more affordable price, the original wool was replaced by cotton during industrialisation and as the fabric became more widely available.
Today, gabardine can be made from a range of natural and synthetic fibres, so it is essential to read the composition of the gabardine you want to buy carefully. Likewise, the weight of gabardines on the market can vary greatly. A “good” gabardine should be a fairly heavy, dense fabric with a beautiful drape. It should have body, with a certain stiffness that helps it resist creasing. Its density also gives it a slightly water-repellent effect.
We chose to offer you the beautiful 100% cotton gabardines by Atelier Brunette, which you can find here
Wide-wale corduroy
needlecord
Heavy gabardine
Denim
Denim probably comes from the French city of Nîmes, from which it is thought to take its name: “de Nîmes”. Denim is a woven fabric with a twill weave. With one major difference—you’ve probably guessed it already—the famous dye: indigo!
In denim, the weft yarn is not dyed (so it remains ecru) while the warp yarn is blue. It is worth noting that the dye does not penetrate all the way to the core of the fibre, so the centre is not fully coloured; this is why our famous jeans fade over time.
Since then, denim colours have of course evolved and today there is an extremely broad range of shades. At C'est du Joly you’ll find a wide choice, from the most classic to the most original colours. Find the full range here.
Lightweight gabardine
Denim
denim jacquard
Denim jacquard
The term jacquard fabric covers fabrics whose pattern is not created by printing (or dyeing), but by weaving or knitting. Fabrics produced in this way are known for their beauty and diversity, and also because they are considered more refined textiles.
These fabrics can feature very simple designs (such as geometrics, polka dots...) but also extremely complex motifs such as landscapes or portraits... just imagine how many different colours of yarn are needed to achieve that feat!
At C'est du Joly we’ve sourced some gorgeous denim jacquards 😍 and we absolutely love them... find them here
A Sanaz in denim jacquard
So, what do we do now?
We head straight over to discover our beautiful patterns and fabric pairings online and in store, where we’ll be delighted to advise you 😉
For anyone who wants to sew trousers—or even a whole pair of jeans—with us, we offer specific classes on this theme.
And for anyone struggling to sew a neat fly front, we have the technical class “Everything about zips: level 2”—do take a look!
You’ll find our full range of classes here.
Right, now all that’s left is to get sewing!
Needles at the ready!
