This week, I dove back into various trouser patterns... because I sorted through my wardrobe and discovered with horror 😂 that:
- I have a lot of blouses, tops, and summer dresses
- I am missing trousers and winter dresses
- and for next summer, I'll need to cut some shorts 😅
Anyway, it was the perfect opportunity to dive back into the different models I love, which we offer on the website, and that I sew in the workshop with my students to also find the models I am going to sew for this autumn/winter.
This week, we are starting with the "easy" models; those aimed at beginner, initiated, and intermediate sewists. That doesn't mean advanced and expert sewists can't sew them; quite the opposite, as they will find quick and simpler makes that offer a relaxing break between two more complex projects.
So, let's dive into the world of trousers!
The first trousers I am going to propose to you are those with an elasticated waistband.
Their advantages are:
- being simple to sew
- not having a zip to insert
They are therefore great candidates for sewists who want to sew their first pair of trousers hassle-free. Note that this type of trousers makes very good pyjama bottoms, as they are very comfortable and have neither zips nor uncomfortable buttons for sleeping.
1. The Tomy trousers by Clématisse pattern
The Tomy sewing pattern is a relaxed pair of trousers. Thanks to its supple yet non-oversized volume, it lends itself just as well to very fluid fabrics like Viscose and tencel as to fabrics with more body like linen.
With its elasticated waistband and seam pockets, without zips or buttons, Tomy is a simple pair of trousers to sew.
The Tomy pattern is available in Printed and PDF versions on our site.
It is graded from size 32 to 52 for a height of 1.65m.
2. The Philippe trousers by Coralie Bijasson
Philippe has been Coralie Bijasson's bestseller since 2015, and it's easy to see why! Philippe is the pattern designed specifically for sewing beginners. It is available in PDF version only and for 2 years now, it has been graded up to size 56 starting from size 34!
Philippe is a pair of fluid, wide-leg trousers that are both easy to make and pleasant to wear. Comfortable and an absolute must-have for summer, or to wear in cocooning mode at home as loungewear or pyjama bottoms. Philippe stands out due to the absence of a zip closure, making the trouser construction simpler. The elasticated waist adds a practical and comfortable touch, while the side pockets are both functional and aesthetic. This pattern was designed to make every step of the sewing process easier, ideal for those embarking on this beautiful creative journey.
Intentionally long, the Philippe trousers were designed to suit all body shapes. This feature also allows easy adjustment to different leg lengths according to individual preferences.
We use the Philippe trousers pattern a lot in the workshop, our students love it whether they are beginners or advanced; Philippe is truly a great pattern to have in your pattern library! I can't recommend it enough!
3. Gaelle by Atelier Jumadi
Gaëlle by Atelier Jumadi stands out from the first two models above with its option for a contrasting side stripe, giving it a very modern twist! It will appeal to younger sewists as well as ladies looking for originality! Indeed, with its front side inserts, it allows you to add a touch of colour, pattern, or texture for a unique and stylish look. Its invisible pockets integrated into the inserts are both practical and subtle, and the patch pocket on the back adds a modern and casual finish. The waistband is fully elasticated for maximum comfort and is adjustable thanks to a drawstring tie.
Gaelle is available in Printed and PDF versions from size 32 to 50.
4. Aulio by Named Clothing
Named Clothing offers us a great trouser model with an elasticated and tied waist: the Aulio trousers. The Aulio sewing pattern features two simple options: casual shorts and classic wide-leg trousers. Both models feature a high, elasticated waist with a drawstring. These timeless garments are quick and easy to sew, and comfortable to wear for years! They are suitable for beginners and make an excellent first trouser pattern. Aulio is available in PDF version from size XS to XXL in English. Nevertheless, the instructions are very simple and clear to follow!
5. Armor by Iam Patterns
Looking for elegant and simple trousers to sew? I suggest the "faux" sailor trousers by Iam patterns: the Armor model! Simple trousers that make a real statement! Armor is a wide pair of trousers with an elasticated waist featuring a strong nautical character, thanks to its pin-tuck topstitching down the center front and its double row of decorative buttons. We also love the fact that there are pockets in the side seams.
Armor can be sewn as shorts or cropped trousers. It is very simple to make and will be a fantastic project to wear for all occasions.
Armor is available in Printed and PDF versions from size 36 to 46
6. Orel by Dress Your Body
The Orel trousers pattern is a very comfortable trouser pattern featuring wide legs and an elasticated waistband at the back.
The wide waistband and the play of pockets/pleats at the front bring style and elegance... It features a wide front waistband and pleats for style, along with an elasticated back waistband for comfort! We appreciate this detail which avoids gathers on the front waist, keeping them solely at the back. This is very useful when sewing slightly thicker fabrics.
The pattern comes in 3 different height options to help limit adjustments to the trousers, particularly around the crotch area.
Regarding height, in theory, if you measure:
- between 1.56m and 1.63m, choose the height: 1.60m
- between 1.64m and 1.71m, choose the height: 1.68m
- between 1.72m and 1.80m, choose the height: 1.76m
Orel is available in PDF version from size 34 to 52 and for heights from 1.6 to 1.76m.
Bonus: Zya by Comme une fleur from size 32 to 60 which, like Orel by Dress your body, offers a flat waistband at the front and an elasticated back for maximum comfort!
Zya is a palazzo-style trouser pattern that can also be made into shorts. On the front, you have 3 knife pleats on each side and slant pockets. On the back, there is elastic inside the waistband, allowing you to skip the zip step. The elastic is only on the back to avoid adding bulk to the front. You can also add belt loops and a long tie belt.
Find Zya and all the lovely patterns by Comme une fleur here: https://www.cestdujoly.be/collections/patrons/comme-une-fleur
Which fabrics to use for elasticated waist trousers?
Trousers with an elasticated waistband designed for woven fabrics (like the models presented above) benefit greatly from being sewn in fluid, lightweight fabrics!
For soft and fluid fabrics, we recommend:
- Viscose Crepe and twill,
- tencel / lyocell
- cotton or Viscose satin
Sorona Linen
Stretch viscose twill
Lightweight denim Tencel
For fabrics with more structure, we recommend:
- textured cotton poplins (like our Japanese ones) and indigos
- linen and linen-viscose blends
For a pyjama version, cotton satins and especially cotton flannels will work wonders!
Checkered flannel
embroidered linen viscose
textured Japanese cotton
Now let's move on to intermediate-level trousers! I have selected trousers with a side closure using an invisible zip. If you are afraid of diving into sewing an invisible zip, we invite you to join our technique class: all about zips: level 1.
Find all our courses offer here.
1. Paloma by Coralie Bijasson
Paloma is a pair of pleated trousers or cropped trousers with wide legs, a high waist, and a wide waistband. This model closes with an invisible zip at the side. It features small pleats on the front of the trousers and a beautiful wide waistband that accentuates the waist.
Paloma works beautifully with heavy and fluid viscoses, and tencel for a top-notch result! The pair I am wearing below is made from a stretch Viscose remnant.
Paloma is available on our website from size 34 to 56 in PDF version.
The full blog post about Paloma is available here
2. Louna by Atelier Jumadi
The Louna trousers are the essential wide-leg trousers to have in a 100% handmade wardrobe. A simple and elegant model suitable for all levels. It features easy-to-sew slant pockets at the front. We love its straight, classic cut and its relatively thin waistband. To me, Louna is a fantastic trouser model that can be worn at the office or for an outing depending on the fabrics and patterns chosen. A basic trouser pattern that will find its place in many wardrobes.
Louna is available in Printed and PDF versions from size 32 to 50.
3. Sanaz by Coralie Bijasson
A model that all of us at the workshop and among colleagues absolutely adore, having already sewn several versions of it, is Sanaz by Coralie Bijasson! Sanaz is an elegant and feminine culotte model available in two lengths: midi or long, created by Coralie Bijasson. With its defined waist featuring a shaped waistband and a western-style yoke cut at the front, it combines modernity and originality. Its discreet slant pockets add a practical and refined touch, while the invisible side zip ensures a clean finish.
Sanaz's charm lies in its extra-wide legs, structured by box pleats that offer dramatic volume while preserving fluidity. This generous cut highlights movement and creates a silhouette that is both bold and airy.
Sanaz is a model by Coralie Bijasson and is available in PDF on our site. Plus, Coralie has provided a wide range of sizes, as Sanaz is offered from 34 to 56 (FR), 2 to 24 (US), 6 to 28 (UK).
Sanaz flatters all body shapes and adapts to all occasions, from daily chic to elegant evenings. Depending on the fabrics chosen, you can achieve a very different look—just look at our three versions!
4. Fiteasy'm by Clématisse pattern
The Fiteasy’m Trousers "fit" you with a dream waistline, all through an ultra-"easy" little make.
With its high, flattering waist and flared leg (but not too much!), it works for any occasion. These trousers are designed without major technical difficulties, featuring just a few waist Clips and a simple side zip.
You can add belt loops if desired, depending on the style you want to achieve. You can also add a tie belt in the same fabric, as you wish.
These trousers are available in Printed and PDF versions from size 32 to 48.
Which fabrics to use for trousers with an invisible side zip?
Personally, for this type of trousers, I really like to use structured Japanese fabrics or indigos. They offer great drape and are durable enough for trousers.
Needlecord velvet, lightweight gabardines, cotton twills as well as Denim jacquard are truly great choices for making this type of trousers!
For fluid versions, you can also use Viscose twills and tencel.
Jacquard Denim
Japanese needlecord
cotton twill
Feel like sewing lovely trousers? Why not come and sew your first pair with us in our workshops? We have courses dedicated to making your first trousers as well as jeans! Find all our courses offer here.
And for those who want to sew great trousers at home or in other sewing workshops 😉, find all the trouser and shorts Patterns we offer here.
Of course, there are plenty of other lovely models to discover!
So, time to get started!
To your needles!
