When I started working at the store, I discovered Atelier Bernie patterns that I didn’t know at all. I immediately fell for the retro and romantic side of the brand. The Angela dress sewn by Eugénie also contributed to my crush.

So I very quickly bought the pattern for the Nina blouse and dress. One thing is for sure, it won’t be the last Atelier Bernie pattern I make 😉.

I had also fallen for an embroidered cotton with a watercolor flower pattern that I find magnificent. And I dared to go all the way with my romantic coming-out: I combined the two!  Come on, let me tell you!

The model of the Nina blouse and dress

Like the other patterns from the brand, the model’s name is not accidental: this one refers to the great singer Nina Simone, a committed artist if ever there was one. This raglan sleeve model is truly retro and comes in several versions: blouse or dress, short or long each time. The blouse even goes up to a crop-top if you dare to bare your belly!

The size can be loose or fitted with ties, smocking, or elastics according to your choices and tastes. These variations play with details that make the whole beauty of the model: gathered neckline, very open on the shoulders or closer to the neck, wide sleeves and tightened cuffs, ruffled finishes, attachment ties… 

On my side, I opted for the blouse, with a ruffle at the neckline. Worn over jeans that tone down the romantic flair, it’s just perfect!

Practical information for sewing Nina

The printed version of Nina is available in store. The PDF version is available on the website of its creator, Morgane. 

The pattern is graded from size 32 to 50. It is a very loose model that gives us great freedom in ease and the look we want. Morgane indicates a beginner level to sew Nina. For me, it is indeed a beginner level, with a few small challenges that will allow you to progress in sewing or practice certain techniques.

Moreover, since it is possible to make several versions and variations, you can start with a simple version before moving on to more difficult elements. 

In the seamstress's basket

Nina is sewn in a woven fabric.

Depending on the fabric, you can get a more fluid look with: muslin, lace, some viscose, some tencel or silk... You can get a more structured look by choosing: a fine cotton (cotton lawn) or medium, a linen, some embroidered cotton or double gauze.     

To sew Nina, you will need:  
- Woven fabric
- Good quality matching thread
- Flat elastic 8/9mm (Long sleeves: 2x your wrist circumference Short sleeves: 2x your upper arm circumference)

And depending on the chosen version: 
- Elastic waistband (3x your waist measurement) 
- Elastic thread for the version with smocking   

The pattern has a very clever chart that really allows us to calculate the exact yardage needed.    

My supplies 

Total crush for the cotton embroidered with watercolor flowers and if you remember the team presentation article written by Eugénie, you know I love mauve and flowers… QED. As a side note, I actually got the end of the roll and Eugénie restocked it very quickly given its success!

For the thread, I chose a beautiful burgundy red for topstitching in contrasting colors. 

On the elastic side, the 9mm was perfect, nice and flexible and not too thin.

To secure the slit, I preferred to apply a light fusible interfacing to the front piece and the slit facing to prevent the fabric from tearing over time. You never know…

Technical points 

 Nina is therefore a beginner pattern, with a few small challenges: 

- flat-felled seams
- gathers
- handkerchief hem
- sewing a casing
- sewing ties
- making smocks
- creating a slit
- topstitching
- sewing elastic

Nina is therefore a great pattern for learning many different techniques while being guided by the explanatory booklet which is well detailed.

My sewing experience 

To avoid too much fullness, I chose size 34 instead of a 38 or 40; and I really like the result. Since I chose the long blouse version, normally the waist is loose but I wanted to be able to play with wide and tight. So I sewed an additional tie and two small printed tabs. This little trick allows me all variations of cinching, from the closest to the waist to the widest. 

Morgane guides us well through the assembly sequence. We start by making the neckline slit. Then, we assemble the raglan by sewing the front and back to the sleeves. Next, we assemble the pieces of the ruffle and finish it; for my part, I chose a rolled hem with the serger. Then comes the assembly of the ruffle and the garment by making 3 seams: the assembly seam and the two additional ones allowing the creation of the casing. At the same time, we make the ties. I made 2 long ones (neckline and waist) and two short ones (for the printed tabs).  Next, we assemble the underarms where I placed the printed tabs. I did not do a flat-felled seam but opted for open seams, finished with the serger.   

I made a double gauze hem at the cuffs, allowing me to slip the elastic inside. Finally, I finished with the double gauze hem at the bottom.

I really enjoyed sewing this blouse and making the pattern my own by placing the printed tabs. When worn, it is very comfortable and I find that it gives me a nice look in a very simple way, which is a bonus! The photos were taken during my vacation in England. I waited to be there to take them because the pattern looks very "English garden," isn’t it? 😊