There are patterns we love, repeat, or reinterpret year after year. This is the case with the Ségur top/dress by Cozy Little World. For a little backstory, I came across its pretty printed in a haberdashery in Toulouse in 2020. I was smitten by its 70 possible variations. A little further on our journey, in Cahors, I found a striped coupon of fabric in tangy colors, perfect for making a cute little Ségur dress...
Well, here it is, I finally sewed it! It just goes to show, when I say I sew all my projects but sometimes with a certain delay 😂 It took me 3 years for this project to come to fruition but no matter, I am happy to present my candy-colored dress; we could even ride the "Barbie" or "My Little Pony" wave.
Let's get started presenting my dress and one of my favorite patterns: the Ségur!
The Ségur pattern
Ségur comes in 70 ways (50 tops and 20 dresses): buttoned in front, at the back, with ruffles, elastic bands... the possibilities are many and varied!
The first thing I appreciate about Ségur is its simple and effective look as a small top or summer dress that can be varied almost endlessly. To wear over shorts or a skirt for the top version, or as a full outfit for the dress which can possibly be completed with a cardigan for the evening...
Its design is timeless and versatile; it is clearly a wardrobe staple. When I buy a pattern, I especially appreciate being able to reuse it from summer to summer, even when fashions change...
Secondly, it can be made in many versions, thus maximizing the value of the pattern purchase. You can even adapt it to wear as lingerie or as a slip if you choose your fabrics well. Why not as a nightgown or summer pajamas?
Third advantage, not negligible, it is compatible with a bra. The back neckline does not dip too low and therefore does not reveal the bra band. As for the bra straps, you can either make wider straps or wear a bra with removable straps if you mind seeing them.
Some possible variations of the top version
Information for sewing Ségur
Ségur is available from size 34 to 52. It is therefore suitable for:
- - bust measurements between 80 and 122cm
- - waist measurements between 60 and 102cm
- - hip measurements between 86 and 128cm
Ségur is available as a printed pattern in the shop.
For tracing the pattern, you must carefully refer to the instructions to identify the pieces needed for the chosen variation. The instructions are simple and clear; it is hard to go wrong if you follow the detailed guide.
Important, seam allowances are not included, so you will need to add them according to the guide’s specifications and the finishes you choose to make.
Simple top version buttoned in front in Japanese double gauze Kokka
Simple top version buttoned at the back in Japanese cotton chirimen
In the seamstress’s basket
To sew Ségur (no matter your version) you will need:
- a flowing fabric such as viscose, a pretty cotton poplin, a cotton lawn, a double gauze, ...
- lining fabric to make a facing which you can also make in the same fabric
- buttons depending on the versions
- interfacing
- elastic depending on the chosen version
- good quality matching thread.
Ségur in top or dress version uses very little fabric. The top can fit into 60-70cm of fabric and the dress into 1.5m
My version and my supplies
I sewed the dress with buttons in front, loops, tie straps, and elasticated back in size 36.
I used the famous coupon bought 3 years earlier in Cahors, glitter buttons from my stock, a flat elastic and a gathering elastic from the shop.
I chose to sew with white thread given the overall colors of my dress. It was ultimately the best fit.
Technical points
To sew Ségur (this can obviously vary a bit depending on the versions), we will have:
- bust darts
- French seams
- overlocking of the facing with some curved seams
- making and attaching the straps
- sewing the facing
- clipping the seams for good placement of the facing and dead stitch (for those who want)
- making loops and placement
- inserting elastic
- hemming the bottom (taking care to secure the facing)
- sewing the button placket and making buttonholes
- sewing buttons
- for the dress version: making gathers.
I find Ségur an excellent basic to start garment sewing and learn many techniques!
Sewing experience
I had already made 4 versions of the top with (simple) buttoning in front or back. I sewed these versions in about 1h30 each, without rushing. For the dress, making the loops took me a bit longer because I wanted to make them in the same fabric. I created a strip about 1cm wide that I folded in four (like bias tape) before sewing it. It was a meticulous job, just like attaching and sewing each of these little loops. I must say the work was worth it because I find them so cute!
For the rest, I followed the instructions without difficulty.
I just added a gathering elastic at the back of the dress because I found it quite wide and wanted to tighten it. Mission accomplished 😊.
I think Ségur is and remains a good basic accessible even to beginners. The booklet instructions are clear and by following them well, there will be no problem sewing your version! I think I will sew many more versions of this pretty pattern!
So, does this pretty Ségur tempt you? Get your needles ready!
