There are patterns you love, repeat, or reinterpret year after year. That’s the case with the Ségur top/dress by Cozy Little World. For a little backstory, I came across its pretty printed pattern in 2020 at a haberdashery in Toulouse. I fell for its 70 variation possibilities. A little further on our journey, in Cahors, I found a striped coupon of fabric in tangy colors, perfect for making a cute little Ségur dress...
Well, here it is, I finally sewed it! It just goes to show, I do sew all my projects, sometimes with a bit of delay 😂 It took me 3 years for this project to come to life, but no matter, I’m happy to present my candy-colored dress; we could even ride the "Barbie" or "My Little Pony" wave.
Let’s get started with presenting my dress and one of my favorite models: the Ségur!
The Ségur model
Ségur comes in 70 variations (50 tops and 20 dresses): buttoned in front, at the back, with ruffles, elastic bands... the possibilities are many and varied!
The first thing I like about Ségur is its simple and effective look as a small top or summer dress that can be adapted almost endlessly. Wear it with shorts or a skirt for the top version, or as a full outfit for the dress, which you can optionally complete with a cardigan for the evening...
Its design is timeless and versatile; it’s clearly a wardrobe staple. When I buy a pattern, I especially appreciate being able to reuse it summer after summer, even when trends change...
Another positive point is that it can be adapted into many versions, making the most of your pattern purchase. You can even adapt it to wear as lingerie or as a slip dress if you choose your fabrics well. Why not as a nightgown or summer pajamas?
A third significant advantage is that it is compatible with a bra. The back neckline doesn’t dip too low, so it doesn’t reveal the bra’s closure band. As for the bra straps, you can either make wider straps or wear a bra with removable straps if you don’t want them to show.
Some possible variations of the top version
Information for sewing Ségur
Ségur is available from size 34 to 52. It is therefore suitable for:
- - bust measurements between 80 and 122cm
- - waist measurements between 60 and 102cm
- - hip measurements between 86 and 128cm
Ségur is available as a printed pattern in the shop.
For tracing the pattern, carefully refer to the instructions to identify the pieces needed for the chosen variation. The instructions are simple and clear; it's hard to make a mistake if you follow the well-detailed explanatory guide.
Important, seam allowances are not included, so you will need to add them according to the guide's specifications and the finishes you choose to make.
Simple top version buttoned at the front in Japanese double gauze Kokka
Simple top version buttoned at the back in Japanese cotton chirimen
In the seamstress's basket
To sew Ségur (regardless of your version) you will need:
- a fluid fabric like viscose, a pretty cotton poplin, a cotton lawn, a double gauze, ...
- lining fabric to make a facing which you can also make in the same fabric
- buttons depending on the versions
- fusible interfacing
- elastic depending on the chosen version
- good quality matching thread.
The Ségur in top or dress version is very economical. The top can fit into 60-70cm of fabric and the dress into 1.5m
My version and my supplies
I sewed the dress with buttons at the front, loops, tie straps, and elasticated back in size 36.
I used the famous coupon bought 3 years earlier in Cahors, glitter buttons from my stock, a flat elastic, and a gathering elastic from the shop.
I chose to sew with white thread given the overall colors of my dress. It was ultimately the best fit.
Technical points
To sew Ségur (this can obviously vary a bit depending on the versions), we will have:
- bust darts
- French seams
- overlocking the facing with some curved seams
- making and attaching the straps
- sewing the facing
- clipping seams for proper placement of the facing and dead stitch (for those who want)
- making loops and placement
- inserting elastic
- making the bottom hems (taking care to secure the facing)
- sewing the button placket and making buttonholes
- sewing buttons
- for the dress version: making gathers.
I find that Ségur is an excellent basic to start garment sewing and learn many techniques!
Sewing experience
I had already made 4 versions of the top with (simple) button closures at the front or back. I sewed these versions in about 1h30 each, without rushing. For the dress, making the loops took me a bit longer because I wanted to make them from the same fabric. So I created a strip about 1cm wide that I folded in 4 (like bias tape) before sewing it. It was a meticulous job, just like placing and sewing each of these little loops. I must say the work was worth it because I find them so cute!
For the rest, I followed the instructions without difficulty.
I just added a gathering elastic at the back of the dress because I found it quite wide and wanted to tighten it. Mission accomplished 😊.
I think Ségur is and remains a good basic, accessible even to beginners. The booklet instructions are clear, and by following them carefully, there will be no problem sewing your version! I think I will sew many more versions of this lovely pattern!
So, does this pretty Ségur tempt you? Grab your needles!
