Bias finishes

Bias tape is one of my favorite haberdashery supplies because:

  • It offers many finishing possibilities, 
  • High-quality "haute couture" finishes, and you know how much I care about beautiful finishes 😊
  • There are many colors and patterns that allow for lots of originality

In short, you can make many things with bias tape and be creative... everything I love! 

So, I’m taking you into the world of this notion I love so much!

What is bias tape / bias ribbon?

I wrote an article about bias tape and knitted bias tape that you can also check out on the blog. Still, a little reminder is in order 😊

Bias tape is a narrow strip of fabric cut on the diagonal, that is, at a 45° angle to the grainline. In fact, the strip is cut on the bias, which is where this tape gets its name! Cutting the fabric strip on the bias gives it some stretch/flexibility, which is very useful for sewing it into the curves of your garment. And that’s also why you never cut bias tape along the fabric’s grainline.

The width of bias tape can vary. The most common width, called "standard," is 20 mm. Since the fabric strip is folded in the center, the flat width of the strip is 40 mm. Another useful width for sewing is the 27mm bias tape, which allows you to edge thicker fabrics like terry cloth or wool blankets to make coats, for example. 

In what form is it found?

You can buy "ready-to-use" bias tape in store

They are available by the meter, in 3m/5m packs, sometimes in 20m rolls...

They come in different materials: cotton, cotton/polyester blend, lurex, sequined, neon, jersey, double gauze...

In the shop, you will find them sold by the meter (cut to length) as well as knitted bias tape sold in 3m packs, very useful for finishing the edges of t-shirts, jersey wrap dress necklines, bodysuits...

Jersey bias tape for the neckline of the bodysuit

Use of bias tape to edge and decorate this dress from a Japanese book pattern

Neckline of a wrap dress in jersey from the book "Sewing Stretch Fabrics" by Marie Poisson

Should you wash your "ready-made" bias tape before using it?

The question is relevant because we usually wash fabric before sewing it, so why not bias tape... Bias tape is only washed once sewn; indeed, it is sold ready to use.

If you wash it, you risk losing the fold from machine washing. However, it is recommended to steam it with an iron to remove finishes and make it more flexible. 

What is it used for?

The main function of bias tape (and my favorite 😊) is to create very neat / luxurious finishes. It is applied to the raw edges of the fabric to prevent fraying. 

Its second use is aesthetic, especially since there are so many colors and patterns that it’s easy to be creative with bias tape.  

What are the ways to sew it?

Bias tape can be sewn in several ways:

- on top: the bias tape is then visible on both the right and wrong sides of the fabric

- invisible: the bias tape is then only visible on the wrong side of the fabric

- folded on itself to create straps or ties 

- flat (single or double): the bias tape will be visible on the right side

- on top: it will be visible on the right side of the fabric; it is most often decorative. 

Bias tape sewn on both sides for the facing of my Ségur top

Hidden bias tape for the armholes of my Gaïa top

Bias tape used to form the straps and neckline of my Centaurée dress

For which finishes / which garment is it useful?

Bias tape finishes are often very beautiful finishes.

I like to use them for:

  • the facings of my blouses and skirts
  • bind the inside of a jacket to hide the seams
  • finish the armholes of sleeveless summer dresses and tops (with bias tape sewn on both sides or hidden bias tape)
  • make straps for light tops and dresses
  • create ties (for lacing or to make a "mini" dress or blouse belt to tie at the back, bunting garlands...)
  • finish the hem of garments like a circle skirt 
  • finishing tulle/mesh
  • finish the edges of baby accessories (bibs, bath capes...) Then use wider 27mm bias tapes that are easier to apply on thicker materials like terry cloth
  • ...

Your turn! 

There you go, now you know more about this great haberdashery supply that allows for lots of creativity...

Get your needles ready! 

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