Today, I am talking to you about the Criollo jacket by Maison Fauve. I fell for this model when discovering Julie’s version from Atelier Svila in terracotta-colored suede. Since then, lovely versions have appeared online that inspired me.
I therefore ordered the pattern printed, from the Sew Me Pampa collection on the Maison Fauve website, at the price of 16.50 euros. This model is not yet available in PDF format.
The Criollo jacket is original due to its construction and its pockets.
Indeed, Emilie invites us to make a mid-season jacket without lining but with finishes worthy of a high tailoring creation. These are made using flat-felled seams and the application of binding. The facings are also a neat finishing method on which one can play by choosing contrasting fabrics.
The pockets are very original with the proposed assembly.
The front and back bust bands help structure the silhouette and lengthen it. Finally, the jacket can be closed with 6 buttons, and belted or not using the proposed belt or a scarf.
Pocket detail
Facing
The jacket is offered from size 34 to 46 with:
- a bust measurement between 80 and 104cm
- a waist measurement between 60 and 84cm
- a hip measurement between 86 and 110cm.
To sew the Criollo jacket, you will need a medium-weight fabric (after all, it is a mid-season jacket) such as gabardine, velvet, denim, chambray...
Emilie suggests buying 2.70m of fabric; this length corresponds to the largest size, if you cut a smaller size, I invite you to reduce the length by measuring your pieces. You can do a trial on the floor by placing your pieces.
You will also need 6 buttons (if you want to make buttonholes) and 4.5m of binding.
For my version, I chose a blue suede for the main fabric and a scrap of silver stretch fabric allowing me to play on contrasts for the facing and the back of the pockets. The fabrics come from the Maison Dorée haberdashery in Ixelles. For the binding, I chose a contrasting burgundy color.
Tracing the pattern is easy. However, you must be careful to mark all the assembly notches and the markings for the placement of the bust bands and pockets. Seam allowances are included and are 1cm.
There are many technical points in this jacket, which is moreover announced as advanced level.
Despite this, I find it not long to sew with the very clear instructions provided in the explanatory booklet.
However, you will need to be attentive and careful to carry out:
- the flat-felled seams or the application of binding (option I chose)
- the making of the bust bands and their application
- the creation and application of the pockets
- the assembly of the collar and the facing
- the assembly of the sleeves
- the making of the belt
- the hems of the sleeves and the bottom of the jacket with the facing
- the making of the buttonholes.
In the end, I am quite proud of my first version. I would make it again for spring in a gabardine and why not with a floral binding... I will think about it some more.
