I love coats and jackets. I find these pieces elegant and timeless. So, when I saw the book Coats and Jackets, gathering 8 patterns from 4 designers, I bought it right away. It is sold for 19.95 euros from the publisher and on amazon.

This book includes the following patterns:
- The Neva coat from "Les Patronnes"
- The Ginger tailored jacket from "Les Patronnes"
- The Scarlett teddy jacket by Julie Kansara
- The pretty tricolour Artémis coat by Julie Kansara
- The Sylvia jacket by anna Rose Patterns
- The Hazel coat by Anna Rose Patterns
- The Aurore blazer by You made my day
- The Meieli duffle coat by You made my day
Five patterns caught my eye right away: Ginger, Scarlett, Artémis, Sylvia, and Hazel.
And I decided to start with the small Hazel coat because I already had the materials to make it.

The book also contains a brief technical booklet detailing the following techniques:
- making buttonholes by machine
- assembling lining
- attaching clean-finish bias binding
- making a tear-proof vent and attaching a sleeve cuff
- attaching a bellows pocket

Hazel is a short coat with kimono sleeves. These sleeves reach more or less below the elbow, somewhat like three-quarter sleeves. This coat is therefore rather to be worn over a long-sleeved jumper or sweatshirt or, like me, under a warm bodysuit.
It closes with 4 large buttons (3 to 3.5 cm in diameter) which leave you a large decorative gap ;-)
The bottom of the coat and the bottom of the sleeves end with a yoke that will be useful to attach the lining.

Detail of lining and piping

Detail of lining and buttons

Hazel is available from size 34 to 44 for a:
- bust measurement between 80 and 100 cm
- waist measurement between 62 and 82 cm.
The hip measurement is not necessary because the coat falls above the fullest part of the hips.
I cut it in size 36 for more ease since it is a coat. I should have cut it in 34 because the ease is quite generous. It runs large.
The seam allowances are included in the pattern and are 1 cm.

Cutting with Gala

Lining

This coat is to be made for a mild cold season (like in Belgium ;-) ) but given its cut it will not be suitable for a harsh winter.
It is recommended to make it in a soft and moderately thick fabric such as boiled wool, wool flannel, wool broadcloth...
I chose a "broadcloth-style" fabric bought at Toto for 15 euros for 3 meters.
I also used:
- a cotton lining from Nostex in Etterbeek
- 4 buttons from a clearance sale at Veritas (a bargain!)
- a gold lurex piping to edge the lining.

The book is rated level 2 out of 3 for difficulty. Given the type of pieces, it seems to me that you need a good intermediate to experienced level to be satisfied with the result.

Regarding the technical points for making Hazel, there are:
- assembling the yokes and facings of the coat and sleeve hems
- assembling the facing
- attaching the lining
- making the buttonholes.
Be mindful of the diameter of your buttons and the capabilities of your machine. For me, it was the maximum button diameter for my sewing machine to make buttonholes large enough. Otherwise, you will have to make buttonholes by hand.

For my part, I find it gives me a little painter’s style, worn with my red beret. Don’t you think so?