When I sewed the Agathe jumpsuit by Cha Coud last spring, I knew I would make other summer versions - of course - but also winter versions.

I pictured it well in a denim bell-bottom version with a pointed collar, a bit like a mechanic’s overalls but a little more feminine 😂. I dreamed of it for my party outfit or for my birthday...

When I went to Japan last May, I brought back 3m of Okayama jeans for this long-term project... because yes, I had fun embroidering it in sashiko. So, shall we talk about this project that took me about 4 months to finish and become my New Year's outfit?

This way! 

The base model: the Agathe jumpsuit by Cha Coud

Agathe is a jumpsuit equally suited for everyday wear and vacations. It features a polo placket with hidden buttons down the center front and has 2 chest pockets, 2 pockets on the front of the shorts, as well as an attached belt. The shorts of the jumpsuit have a straight cut. They include clips at the back to adjust the waist and small pleats at the front around the bust. Agathe is perfect for preparing for spring and the arrival of summer! Depending on the accessories and fabric choice, Agathe can also be worn in winter with tights and a nice pair of boots. 

Agathe is available from size 34 to 48 in printed pattern and PDF format in our shop.  Seam allowances are included, which is always a welcome time saver.

Below, you’ll find my first version taken in my suitcase to go to Japan. I had sewn it in a coupon of Japanese fabrics with a stylized camellia pattern. 

You can find the full article on this sewing project here.

Pattern alterations

To create my overalls version, I first started by lengthening the legs and giving them a very wide flare. I was inspired by the Fauvette pants pattern from Instinct Couture that I had just sewn and love to wear! The article is also available here.

Next, the second challenge was to draft a collar and collar stand that would fit the base model by Charlotte, the model’s creator. 

Without hesitation, I took my Japanese ruler, my tailor’s chalk, and drafted these pieces. I made a small test piece to make sure my work was good... 

Finally, I decided to add patch pockets on the back of the pants because I like to slip my phone in there when I work. I also chose to add a sleeve bracelet that allows lengthening the sleeve and gives a "a bit more overalls" finish. 

And then all I had to do was fit all my pieces into my beautiful coupon of jeans! 

I chose to overlock all the pieces directly with a red overlock thread recalling the color of my denim. 

The sashiko inspiration

Sashiko embroidery is a Japanese embroidery technique. It is very old and was originally used to make clothes last as long as possible while minimizing thread use, which also had to be conserved due to its cost.

At the time, embroidery patterns were designed to be economical with thread! With Japan’s industrialization and the resulting drop in raw material prices, Sashiko embroidery became more decorative and creative. Women then enjoyed creating patterns to decorate their children’s and husbands’ clothes! 

Originally, Sashiko embroidery was done on dark work clothes; so in its traditional form, it is embroidered on blue, indigo, gray toile... This obviously inspired me since I wanted to create a jumpsuit in indigo blue denim...

I still had to find the pattern... which didn’t take long because I was lucky enough to visit the Takashi Murakami exhibition in Kyoto. His favorite pattern is mostly large smiling flowers. 

I had the idea! All I needed now was to create my own flower pattern and choose the colors!

The supplies

To sew my Agathe dungaree version, I used:
- my 3m coupon of Japanese denim, with some scraps left for small projects (accessories)
- 7 large vintage buttons from my stock
- Gütermann burgundy thread, I used two 200m spools because I did a lot of topstitching
- red serger cones

To embroider my dungarees, I used:
- 1 sashiko needle
- 1 thread cutter
- sashiko Olympus threads in red, pink, yellow, blue, green, and mauve 

The sewing experience

I think this is one of the achievements I'm most proud of. It's also one of my projects that took the longest from the idea to its realization... this is what we call "slow sewing/embroidery." I believe this greatly contributes to the joy and satisfaction I feel when I wear this outfit. 

To recap the project schedule:

In May, I leave for Japan with Agathe version 1 in my suitcase, eager to make myself dungarees based on this model. 

I find a beautiful 3m coupon of Okayama denim and visit the Murakami exhibition in Kyoto.

The project takes shape in my mind. 

In June, I receive the printed pattern of Fauvette by Fanny from the Instinct Couture brand. I'm charmed by these high-waisted pants whose wide legs give me ideas. 

In July, I sew Fauvette and I love its wide legs... I approve the idea for my dungarees.

In August, I have a very clear idea of my project... I draft my pieces.

In September, I cut, sew, and start embroidering.

In October, November, and December, I intermittently embroider one flower at a time and finish the hems. 

I'm thrilled with this project, I love it and I already want to start the experience again because I feel absolutely great in my dungarees and I think it shows! 

I already have the fabric for the next summer version, I fell for a very colorful fabric in Japan (because we agree that we need to bring color into our lives, right?). 

I'm also thinking about sewing a new dungaree version still incorporating sashiko... I think it will also be a slow sewing project 😂 but as they say, "it's good to slow down from time to time." 

So, do you like my jumpsuit?

If you're tempted to learn sashiko, find our courses here.

If you want to discover sewing or improve your skills, our courses are here.

Get your needles ready!