When I sewed last spring the Agathe jumpsuit by Cha Coud, I knew I would make other summer versions - of course - but also winter versions.

I pictured it well in a denim bell-bottom version with a pointed collar a bit like a mechanic's overalls but a bit more feminine 😂. I dreamed of it for my party outfit or for my birthday...

When I went to Japan last May, I brought back 3m of Okayama jeans for this long-term project... because yes, I had fun embroidering it in sashiko. So shall we talk about this project that took me about 4 months to complete to become my New Year's outfit?

It's this way! 

The base model: the Agathe jumpsuit by Cha Coud

Agathe is a jumpsuit suitable for both everyday wear and holidays. It is made of a polo placket with hidden buttons down the center front and features 2 chest pockets, 2 pockets on the front of the shorts, as well as an attached belt. The shorts of the jumpsuit have a straight cut. It has darts at the back to adjust the waist and small pleats at the front at the bust level. Agathe is perfect to prepare for spring and the arrival of summer! Depending on the accessorizing and fabric choice, Agathe can also be worn in winter with tights and a nice pair of boots. 

Agathe is available from size 34 to 48 in printed format and PDF on our shop.  Seam allowances are included, which is always a welcome time saver.

Below, you will find my first version taken in my suitcase to go to Japan. I had sewn it in a coupon of Japanese fabrics with a stylized camellia pattern. 

You will find the full article on this sewing project here.

Pattern transformations

To create my overalls version, I first started by lengthening the legs and giving them a very wide flare. I was inspired by the Fauvette pants pattern from Instinct Couture that I had just sewn and love to wear! The article is also available here.

Next, the second challenge was to pattern a collar and a collar stand that would fit the base model by Charlotte, the model’s creator. 

In no time, I took my Japanese ruler, my tailor’s chalk, and I patterned these pieces. I made a small study piece to make sure my work was good... 

Finally, I chose to add patch pockets on the back of the pants because I like to slip my phone in there when I work. I also chose to add a sleeve bracelet to lengthen the sleeve and give a "a bit more overalls" finish. 

And then all I had to do was fit all my pieces into my beautiful coupon of denim! 

I chose to overlock all the pieces directly with a red overlock thread recalling the color of my denim. 

The sashiko inspiration

Sashiko embroidery is a Japanese embroidery technique. It is very old and its primary purpose was to make clothes last as long as possible while minimizing the use of thread, which also had to be conserved due to its cost.

At the time, embroidery patterns were therefore designed to be economical with thread! With the industrialization of Japan and thus the decrease in the price of raw materials, Sashiko embroidery became more decorative and creative. Women then enjoyed creating patterns decorating their children’s and husbands’ clothes!

Originally, Sashiko embroidery was done on dark work clothes; that's why in its traditional expression, it is embroidered on blue, indigo, gray fabric... This obviously inspired me since I wanted to create an indigo blue denim jumpsuit...

I still had to find the pattern... which didn't take long because I was lucky enough to visit the Takashi Murakami exhibition in Kyoto. His favorite pattern is mostly large smiling flowers. 

I had the idea! All I needed now was to create my own flower pattern and choose the colors!

The supplies

To sew my Agathe dungaree version, I used:
- my coupon of 3m of Japanese denim of which I have some scraps left for small projects (accessories)
- 7 large vintage buttons from my stock
- gütermann bordeaux thread, I used two 200m spools because I did a lot of topstitching
- red serger cones

To embroider my dungarees, I used:
- 1 sashiko needle
- 1 thread cutter
- sashiko Olympus threads in red, pink, yellow, blue, green, and mauve colors 

The sewing experience

I think this is one of the achievements I am most proud of. It is also one of my achievements that took me the longest time from the moment of the idea to its realization ... this is what we call "slow sewing/embroidery." I think this greatly contributes to the feeling of joy and satisfaction I feel when I wear this outfit. 

To redo the project schedule:

In May, I go to Japan with Agathe version 1 in my suitcase with the desire to make myself dungarees based on this model. 

I find a magnificent coupon of 3m of Okayama jeans and I visit the Murakami exhibition in Kyoto.

The project takes shape in my head. 

In June, I receive the printed pattern of Fauvette by Fanny from the Instinct Couture brand. I am charmed by these pleated pants whose wide legs give me ideas. 

In July, I sew Fauvette and I love its wide legs... I approve the idea for my dungarees

In August, I have a very clear idea of my project... I pattern my pieces

In September, I cut, sew, and start embroidering.

In October, November, and December, I intermittently embroider one flower at a time and I finish the hem details. 

I am thrilled with this project, I love it and I already want to start the experience again because I feel divinely good in my dungarees and I think it shows! 

I already have the fabric for the next summer version, I fell for a very colorful fabric in Japan (because we agree that we need to bring color into our lives, right?). 

I am also thinking about sewing a new dungaree version still incorporating sashiko... I think it will also be a slow sewing project 😂 but as they say "it feels good to slow down from time to time." 

So, do you like my jumpsuit?

If you are tempted by learning sashiko, find our courses here. 

If you want to discover sewing or improve your skills, our courses are here. 

Get your needles ready!