Last week, I was talking to you about arcuates: those pretty designs that decorate the patch pockets of our jeans. I told you it was one of my favorite parts to think about the pattern, colors, and design so that the pocket flatters the backside. 

This week, I’m revealing the creation process of an embroidered arcuate for my new Sunshine jeans modified with a flare cut, which I wrote a little blog post about that you can find here. 

Let’s get started talking sewing and embroidery! 

1. Choose the pattern

When I create an arcuate or more generally an embroidery, I take time to think about the pattern. You obviously need to focus on the theme, size, and colors used. 

The theme of the pattern is often Japanese-inspired for me, whether it’s flowers (cherry blossoms, peonies...), kawaii characters, mythological animals (dragon, tiger...), or from Shinto religious culture... I draw a lot of inspiration from reproductions of images in art books, ukiyo-e (woodblock prints), the tattoo world which has a lot to offer in terms of patterns, coloring books, and artists. For the jeans theme, I was inspired by the coloring world combined with a travel book about Japan and cherry blossom season. 

The size of the pattern must of course be adapted to the piece to be embroidered. You can always reduce or enlarge a pattern; but you still have to embroider it and also "read" it—that is, clearly see and understand the pattern at first glance. It must therefore be proportionate to the size of the piece, because you don’t want someone staring overtly at your backside trying to understand your embroidery pattern. For the size of the pocket pattern on my jeans, I chose to create a diagonal of flowers embroidered roughly at a 1:1 scale. 

The colors used are also very important. This is one of the parts of creation I really enjoy: choosing the color palette! Over the years, I’ve accumulated a box full of DMC threads that allow me to create harmonious palettes, to which I occasionally add new skeins to complete my palette. I chose to stay in mauve, lavender, and pink tones to keep harmony both with the true color of cherry blossoms and to match the mauve topstitching on my jeans. Always keep in mind the background color of the piece to be embroidered when choosing sufficiently contrasting colors; it would be a shame to spend time embroidering a pattern that ends up barely visible on the finished garment due to lack of contrast. 

To highlight my pattern, I chose to embroider a few lines with DMC light effect thread (metallic thread). I love the effect it gives on embroidery (be careful to use it sparingly so it’s not too flashy). 

2. Prepare your pattern

To embroider my patterns, I trace the design onto Vlieseline solufix or DMC magic paper. I reproduce the pattern on the backing and then I just have to stick it like a sticker onto the fabric I want to embroider. 

You just need to position it well, and then you can embroider directly on it. 

I mark on my paper pattern the colors to use. I note the DMC thread numbers I use for each part of the pattern to create a coherent color palette. 

Finally, I decide which embroidery stitches I will use for the different parts of the pattern: linear stitch, fill stitch, decorative stitches... it’s a very creative moment! 

3. Embroider your pattern

Now comes the time to carefully embroider everything you decided. For this, I stitch through my toile and the adhesive backing as evenly as possible. I really like embroidering color by color and seeing the pattern gradually take shape. I move slowly with the satisfaction of seeing the pattern come to life. 

To embroider my arcuate, I took two small Sunday afternoons and really enjoyed myself. 

Once the pattern was finished, I placed my pocket in a small bowl of cold water to see the solufix paper dissolve and reveal my pretty embroidery. 

To complete it all, I embroidered a tiny flower from the pattern on my front coin pocket. Cuteness guaranteed! 

4. Integrate your pattern into your sewing

I was finally able to integrate my embroidered pocket with its arcuate into my jeans. I made sure to place it according to the markings and topstitched it. 

I chose not to put rivets this time but to make bartacks. They help reinforce the tension points of the pocket and highlight the pretty plum color of my thread and embroidery. 

After making these patch pockets, all that was left was to sew my jeans properly, and a few hours later... I could finally put them on and feel super proud of my creation 😊. 

Having only made jeans for my husband until the end of last year, I’m really getting into making jeans for myself 😂. I have lots of other ideas in mind for what’s next! 

And you, would you like to sew your own jeans or create pretty embroideries? If yes, why not start alone or with me in the workshop? I’d be happy to guide you. 

You’ll also find the essentials to start embroidery in the shop; I wrote a complete article on the subject that you can find here. 

Come on... grab your sewing or embroidery needles! 

Have a great week, 

 Eugénie