Every time I receive the fibremood magazine, I look for the pattern gems they offer, and in the latest edition, several models caught my eye, including the Harper top.

I really like long-sleeve or 3/4 sleeve tops for the mid-season in Belgium. You know, when it’s too warm to wear a sweater but not warm enough to wear just a simple t-shirt or camisole... the most common season in Belgium 😂! Anyway, I liked Harper and its little gathers, so I decided to try a version for the slowly approaching spring.

Let me tell you about my sewing experience, here we go!

The Harper pattern

Harper is a blouse/top gathered at the front, with the gathers continuing from the 3/4 sleeve. It has a pretty closure at the back (fully compatible with a bra).

Despite a relatively simple cut, it has a certain originality that stands out from usual models, especially due to the clever construction of the gathers. The neckline is rounded without being too low and highlights the gathered top.

You can modify the length and also skip the back opening if you choose to make it in stretch fabric.

Practical information for sewing Harper

Harper is a top from fibremood issue no. 22 (year 2023). It is available in paper and PDF versions.

Harper is rated difficulty level 2 out of 5 by Fibremood. It is perfect for confident beginners starting garment sewing and will be a fun piece to make for more experienced sewers.

It is graded from size XS to XXXL, which corresponds to sizes 32 to 60.

The most important measurement to consider for this top is the bust circumference, which ranges from 76cm for XS to 146cm for XXXL, corresponding to finished garment bust measurements of 94.5cm for XS and 152.5cm for XXXL.

The Harper pattern itself is quite short: 58cm for the XS version and up to 73.25cm for the XXXL version. It ends around the small hips depending on your body shape. If you want a longer version, I recommend using the lines provided for that purpose to have a top that covers more at the hips. In that case, don’t forget to check your hip measurement!

In the sewer’s basket

To sew Harper, you will need:

Fibremood recommends stiffer fabrics like linen, cotton poplin, but also lyocell, viscose, or chambray... I also see it well in toile denim for a slightly lighter shirt.

My supplies

For my version of Harper, I chose a jacquard tencel faux plain from the Danish brand Meet milk. I recommend choosing a plain, faux plain, or with very small repetitive prints (dots, confetti, gingham, stripes...) if you want to highlight the gathering work of the pattern. I have seen versions sewn in very busy patterned fabrics, and then it’s impossible to distinguish the gathers. Everyone does as they please, of course, but I find it a shame to "hide" the beautiful originality of this top. I also saw very nice models where people used stripes in one direction for the front and back and in the other direction for the sleeves, and I found their version superb! Anyway, back to mine...

So I chose a mustard yellow faux plain tencel that matched my complexion well and especially had a suitable weight for the look I wanted. For this version, I wanted a slightly heavy top that I could feel on my shoulders. Tencel is an artificial fiber like viscose but with a more environmentally friendly manufacturing process. I wrote an article about it that you can find here.

I chose a well-matched thread because there are visible stitches, especially for the hems but also for attaching the neckline bias. I used H200 interfacing for the back facings and a daisy-patterned button from the shop that I found in the last Italian button shops located in the Milan area.

Technical points of the pattern

If you want to learn how to make beautiful gathers, Harper is the pattern to make!

Harper has quite a few interesting technical points:

• making gathers
• making facings
• making dead seams
• creating bias tape
• creating and attaching a fabric loop
• attaching hidden neckline bias
• hemming
• attaching a button

Nothing very complicated but great for learning these techniques!

My sewing experience

I find Harper really technically interesting and I plan to recommend it to my confident beginner and intermediate students who want to learn new techniques.

I also liked the sleeve construction, which is original.

I followed the assembly as described. If I do it again, I won’t do the facing assembly as indicated. The neckline is wide enough for me to pull over my head without opening the button. Actually, I think (already with this version 😂) I will remove the facing, sew the top’s upper part for a few centimeters, and leave the slit open up to the "sleeve-back" junction. I think it will look nicer aesthetically.

I will rework it and post photos for you 😊

Despite the back slit episode, I am very satisfied with my Harper top. I am happy with my choice of fairly heavy fabric that I will soon be able to wear at the shop since temperatures are slowly rising in the flat country that is mine!

I think a spring/summer version in striped poplin would be nice... come on! I’m adding it to the wishlist 😂 very very long. I think I have enough to keep me busy for 5 years.

Let’s not waste time! Get your needles ready!