Ah, the t-shirt... that essential and iconic piece of every wardrobe! 

You have to say that the t-shirt is really a wardrobe staple since the 1950s with John Wayne, Marlon Brando, and James Dean, idols of a whole generation! For me too, the t-shirt is a key piece in my wardrobe. I find it comfortable, and with the beautiful prints you can find, you can create unique pieces in a style that reflects us and that we love to wear!

Moreover, it's a great personalized gift idea, affordable both financially and technically.

So today, let's talk about t-shirts, sergers, and patterns! Let's go!

T-shirt characteristics

As its name suggests, the t-shirt has a basic T shape. 

It has no closure system, so its neckline must necessarily be elastic, and it is therefore made only from knits! It can have different neckline shapes and sleeve lengths... but it remains a t-shirt! 

Where there are knits, there is a serger!

The serger has many functions, and in my opinion, the most interesting one, the one that leads to buying, is sewing knit fabrics. 

How does it work? To serge means to make a tight stitch that overlaps two pieces of fabric to hold them edge to edge. During this step, the serger also cuts the fabric edge while assembling and making the overlock stitch. That means in one step, the serger sews, overlocks the edges, and trims the excess fabric. This is the big difference compared to a sewing machine!  

Since all these actions happen in a single step, serger sewing is very fast and allows you to create your designs, including very pretty t-shirts, in the blink of an eye! If you don't have one, no worries, you can also sew a t-shirt with a regular sewing machine 😊! 

In the seamstress's basket to create pretty t-shirts

Knitwear, of course! But beautiful knitwear! Nothing is more frustrating than making a piece and later realizing that the jersey has stretched, faded, or pilled... So we choose a knit, most often a cotton jersey that has elasticity and recovery, meaning it returns well to its shape after being stretched. 

At c'est du Joly we offer jerseys with 5% elastane which gives them good elasticity, perfect for making t-shirts, but above all we select products with good shrinkage control. We want your t-shirt's elasticity to be good and consistent over time, and this depends especially on the quality of the elastane fiber. Then all that's left is to choose between plain, colored, patterned... and you’re starting to know my taste for original and floral patterns 😂! 

Enough talk, what do we need for a t-shirt?

1. knit fabric
If you don't know how much to buy depending on the pattern, count on 1m of jersey for a women's short-sleeve t-shirt and 1.1m for a man. 
For long sleeves, 1.5m will be perfect!
For tank tops, 70 to 80cm is enough.

2. good quality matching thread
For the serger, choose cones
For the sewing machine, choose good quality thread in polyester like Gutermann, Amman,...
Don't forget to buy a spool of thread the same color as your knit to hem if you decide to assemble your t-shirt with a serger. 

3. one or more good jersey needles

4. a twin needle
The twin needle will be very useful for hemming the bottom of the body and sleeves. 

Once the materials are purchased, all that's left is to get started! 

My favorite t-shirt patterns

1. The round neckline pattern

This is the ideal pattern to start with because it is the simplest neckline to assemble. 

You can make a high neckline or, conversely, a very low-cut one. You just need to adjust the length of your neckline band. 

I really like Coralie Bijasson's essential t-shirt which allows you to create 10 variations of t-shirts from a single pattern. I also like the book Sewing Stretch by Marie Poisson (which we only sell in our physical store) that also allows for many variations. 

2. The V-neck pattern

The V-neck pattern is a bit more difficult to make but remains accessible to motivated beginners. 

My favorite patterns are the same as those for the round neckline. 

3. The square neckline pattern

It’s my favorite, and I have my favorite the Wanted pattern by Vanessa Pouzet! It’s actually the pattern I chose to wear when I appeared on TV 😊 because I feel great in it. 

I was charmed by this pattern, which is a pretty t-shirt with a square neckline that gives it a sexy yet tasteful look. Several sleeve lengths are offered: short, retro, 3/4, and long. I almost always choose the retro sleeve version that stops just above the elbow. I find it pairs perfectly with a skirt or pants.

My only regret is that it only exists as a PDF, so I can’t offer it in printed format in the shop. 

This neckline is more difficult to make, and I recommend having at least an intermediate level to try it 😊. 

4. The gathered neckline pattern, boat neck, cowl neck, puff sleeves, crossed neckline...

There are many other variations (and that's what’s really fun about sewing t-shirts), so here are some patterns I like:

- puff sleeves and low back pattern: the Marion pattern from Atelier des premières

- cowl neck pattern: the Emno pattern from Coralie Bijasson

- crossed neckline / wrap style pattern: the Alix pattern from Coralie Bijasson

- gathered neckline pattern: the Rachel pattern from Joli Lab
- ...

So, ready to get started?

Find our knit collection here and we also have jolys coupons of jersey at great prices here

Afraid to tame the serger or want to try it out? Why not join us for our beginner or advanced serger courses (especially for the square neckline)?

Marie-Hélène and I will be delighted to guide you in your learning 😊

Get your needles ready!