Choosing the right needle: my 7 tips!

Choosing the right needle for your project is one of the keys to success for your creation. It is important to clearly define the selection criteria. So, let's dive together into the fascinating world of machine needles by going through my 7 tips to help you find your way!

First tip: quality

Choose quality needles. There are many needle brands; some are more famous than others... Think of Schmetz, Singer, Prym... For my part, I have selected the Organ brand, which is a Japanese brand created in 1936 and offers excellent value for money.

These are the needles I use daily and that you will find in the shop.

Second tip: choose your needle according to your machine

Indeed, there are needles with a round shank and with a flat shank. The shank is the part of the needle that attaches to the machine.

It is important to check the type of shank your machine requires. Most so-called "household" machines available on the market require flat shank needles. Round shanks are rather reserved for industrial machines and very old machines.

NB: also make sure to properly secure your needle on your machine. Don't hesitate to use the tools provided with it to tighten your needle well.

Third tip: know the thickness of the needle

Needles come in thicknesses that can vary greatly. The thickness of the needle is expressed in hundredths of a millimeter. You will find needles from size 60 to 110 (hundredths of a mm).

The higher the number, the thicker the needle and the more it is suitable for thick fabrics.

The lower the number, the finer the needle and the more it will suit delicate fabrics.

Fourth tip: choose your needle according to your fabric

There is no true universal needle for all fabrics but several types of needles that will be adapted to the type of fabric.

"For every fabric, its needle"

Each needle will have specific features related to the fabrics for which it is intended.

The so-called "standard" or "universal" needle is the "basic" one that will allow you to sew so-called "basic" fabrics like poplin, cotton... It is often chosen in size 80. It is the basic needle to start sewing and is often the first to be part of your sewing kit.

The microtex needle is a sharp and fine needle, often size 60 or 70 to 80 maximum. It is useful for sewing delicate fabrics like silk, polyester, organza, taffeta, microfiber...

The Jean's needle is very sharp. The goal is to pierce a thick toile without damaging the material (no holes, and no pulling threads...). Often the so-called jean's needle is size 90 to 110. It is useful for sewing denim but also thick cotton fabrics like those used for workwear, thick velvet, faux leather...

The leather needle is sharp and twisted to pierce leather. Its thickness is mostly between 80 and 100. It will be useful for leather.

The jersey or stretch needle has a rounded tip that allows sewing knitwear without damaging it. Indeed, the rounded tip allows it to glide over the knit and thus not damage it by piercing or breaking it. Their thickness is often between 70 and 90.

NB: There are also double needles used to create double stitches for your t-shirt hems.

There are combinations of standard needles and specific needles that are quite interesting when starting sewing.

Fifth tip: store your needles

Yes, as you have understood given the number of needle types available on the market, you will sometimes have to change needles depending on your project. It is therefore essential to store your already used needle if it does not correspond to the next project, otherwise you will quickly get lost.

Some needles, like Organ brand needles, are engraved on the shank or have different shank colors; it is therefore easy to find your way when you have several that have "mixed". Others have no markings, so I recommend noting either on a bag, or by sticking a sticker or colored tape to identify what the needle you are "restocking" is for, waiting for the next project.

Sixth tip: change your needles regularly

Yes, nothing is worse than continuing to sew your creation with a dull, bent, or twisted needle. It is the best way to damage your fabric, your sewing machine, or even injure yourself. At the slightest doubt about the strength of a needle and its straightness, I recommend changing it. It is normal for needles to wear out and be replaced regularly.

Seventh tip: match the right thread with the right needle for the right project

It would be such a shame after carefully selecting your needle to choose the wrong thread!

Simply put, the higher the needle number, the more it is recommended to have a thicker thread. Think of denim, sewn with the jean's needle from size 100 to 110, it will be sewn with a thicker thread.

So, we have reached the end of the article. Feel free to comment and share your tips and tricks about needles!

Happy sewing!

8 thoughts on “Choosing the right needle: my 7 tips!

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Valérie

Des articles toujours très intéressant et faciles à comprendre pour les couturières amateurs et auto didactes….

December 26, 2021 at 10:12am
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Moulin

Merci pour ces infos… y aurait-il un article sur le choix du fil ? Comment choisir la bonne épaisseur ? Bonne journée

August 29, 2021 at 20:19pm
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Robert Arlette

Bonjour et merci pour tout vos conseils
Bonne journée

July 28, 2021 at 20:13pm
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Chandy

Merci pour ces infos, simples mais précises.

June 13, 2021 at 14:51pm
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Rossi

Merci, j’arrive à la fin de ma carrière et j’aprends encore

April 28, 2021 at 22:32pm

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