Corduroy: a fantastic fabric!

Velvet has become a classic in our wardrobe these last years... even if at first it was not a given...

Some having the trauma of the brown shorts and pants from their childhood, others thinking it made them look bigger, but velvet has carved out its place and we can only be happy about it!

Wide wale velvet is comfortable, pleasant on the skin, soft,... a reassuring outfit perfect for winter but also mid-season... I have been wearing it with pleasure for several years!

Do you want to know more about velvet, and about wide wale velvet?

Let's go!

My Toffee pants from Lamericana in wide wale velvet

with my Calao sweatshirt from Instinct Couture

A bit of history

The name "velvet" comes from the Latin vilosus (hairy) because of the hairs that velvet has, those famous hairs that make it so soft! Velvet has the particularity of having one side covered with hairs and one side smooth.

The origin of velvet is India, in the Kashmir region around the Middle Ages. At that time it was called "Swan down".

Following the silk route, velvet arrived in Italy, first passing through Persia, which at that time was a huge commercial and exchange hub. It was the Italian merchants who spread it in Europe around the 14th century and developed velvet weaving centers: Genoa, Venice, Milan, and Florence. At that time, it was woven in silk, making velvet extremely expensive due to the quality of the fibers but also the weaving time. At that time, velvet was therefore reserved for the wealthiest!

In the 16th century, France also began weaving velvet, notably in Tours and especially in Lyon. It was not until the 19th century with the invention in 1801 by the Lyonnais Joseph Marie Jacquard of the Jacquard loom, which allows new weaving combinations and revolutionizes the textile industry, that velvet became more accessible.

What is velvet?

Under the term velvet, we gather a variety of fabrics that share the common feature of having been woven in a complex pattern called "velvet". The pattern is the technical term used for "weaving method". Velvet is therefore not strictly speaking a unique material or fabric but a pattern. You will find velvets: short pile, corduroy, panne velvet, devoré velvet, ribbed, quilted,... This weave has the characteristic of combining, in addition to the classic warp and weft threads, one or more additional threads called "pile threads." These threads are embedded in the weft and form loops on the fabric surface (on one side only). These loops may be uncut (like terry cloth), or cut (as in the case of cut velvet). Because of the presence of loops on only one side of the fabric, you have understood that the two sides of the velvet are very different and will influence how it is worked. The reverse side will often have a matte and smooth surface, and the right side will have a surface made of small short, upright, and tightly packed hairs all in one direction. And yes, like with a cat, the velvet's nap has a direction and must be stroked in the direction of the nap...

Did you say wide-wale velvet?

Wide-wale velvet is a very commonly used fabric. Despite its vintage side, wide-wale velvet has made a strong comeback thanks to the renewal of colors and more modern designs over time.

Corduroy velvet is a rather heavy material, ranging between 120 and 320 g/m2. In our shop, we have nice wide-wale velvets weighing 280g/m2.

However, this material is particularly soft to the touch and quite flexible. It is a warm and very durable textile. It is ribbed and the ribs can be more or less wide.

Advantages of velvet

What are its strengths? Because of its softness, velvet is pleasant to wear. However, be careful with its composition because, as you have understood, there are silk velvets (very expensive), cotton velvets,... but also polyester which does not react at all the same way to body odors. So be sure to check the composition of the velvet and its weight before purchasing.

Velvet is relatively thick and keeps you relatively warm. It is therefore ideal for winter and mid-season depending on where you live... in Belgium it is still perfect for spring and autumn 🤣...

On the other hand, it is sturdy and withstands time well. It is perfect for sewing dresses, jackets, and pants that will be worn in winter but also in mid-season. Another good point about velvet is that it does not fray when cut.

Points of attention

As we saw above, velvet has nap and its nap has a direction that must be respected for the pieces of your sewing pattern... Check that the pieces of your pattern respect the grainline but also that they are oriented in the same direction of the nap. Otherwise, you risk having pieces with slightly different shades because there is a shadow effect

When ironing It is preferable to iron the velvet on the reverse side. If you need to iron, use another piece of fabric between the iron and the velvet to protect your fabric. To open a seam, gently press with the tip of the iron to focus on the seam.
The risk is marking your corduroy, this is called polishing.