When Nanna, the designer from How to do fashion, agreed to join our PDF sewing pattern offer, I was thrilled! I must say that Nanna offers magnificent vintage patterns that she creates with modern techniques. Obviously, if like me you love vintage cuts like 40s-50s style dresses, coats with incredible cuts, romantic, fitted blouses, elegant high-waisted pants... you will love this brand. 

I looked, selected, looked again and ended up choosing jacket no. 4: the London jacket in its variation 2.

So ready to head to London and this fitted jacket that I love?

Let's go!

The pattern

The pattern for the London coat and jacket is the ideal solution to stay warm in style. 

I find that in these 3 versions, this pattern is really in the post-war style; very feminine. Depending on the fabric and the chosen version, it can transform into a perfect coat for all seasons or a lighter jacket. The two different collars offer many possibilities. 

The jacket is belted and not lined. Difficulty 2 out of 5
- Version 3: Short coat lined with a pretty tie collar. Difficulty 4 out of 5

I chose to sew version 2 of this pattern (even though I hesitated for a long time with version 1); the following explanations will therefore focus on this version. 

As you know, I love beautiful finishes, so just because the jacket is not lined doesn't mean I wasn't going to propose an elegant way to finish the seam allowances. 

I explain to you below ☺️

Information to sew this pattern

The How to do fashion patterns are Danish and Nanna, the designer, translated them from Danish to English. 

The instructions in English are easy to translate with Google Translate for those who struggle with the language of Shakespeare and for those who understand English, they are very easy to understand. 

All the patterns from How to do fashion are available in PDF version on our website. 

The London jacket/coat is available from size XS to XL (see size chart below). Note that the jacket and coat have a nice ease; if you want a closer fit you can slightly size down. 

In the seamstress's basket

To sew the London jacket in its version two, you will need a medium to heavy weight woven fabric. A wool fabric, a jacquard, a nice gabardine or why not a linen for a more summery version? The final look of the garment will depend on the type of fabric chosen. This pattern is not suitable for knits. 

To sew version 2, you will need:
- Fabrics 110cm wide XS-XL: 3.5 m or
- Fabrics 140cm wide: XS-M: 2.5 m and L-XL: 3.25
- matching thread
- fusible interfacing: 15 cm (50 cm for a hem)

If desired:
- bias tape 20mm about 10m
- quick fusible hem for heavy fabrics

My supplies

I selected a cappuccino/camel wool fabric from the store (Woluwe) to make a first version. I thought this color was perfect for the slightly 50s style of the jacket. 

I also selected a "wedding flowers" bias tape in orange and cream tones that stayed in the same color range while adding a bit of pep.

I selected a fusible interfacing and a double-sided fusible tape to make my hem. All that was left was to select a thread of a close color and off I went! 

Technical points and modifications

As I said above, version 2 of the London jacket is rated level 2 out of 5 by How to do fashion. 

The proposed jacket is not lined and the finishes suggested for the inside are simple overlocks. I wanted to push the finishes a bit further, so I modified the interior finishes by applying bias tape on the fold. I also finished the jacket with a glued hem secured by stitches. 

The technical points of this jacket:
- cutting thick fabrics
- sewing the facing
- sewing the waistband
- sewing the sleeves and assembly 
- finishing with bias tape if desired
- sewing the hem. 

My sewing experience 

I loved making the London jacket because the pattern caught my eye... I really wanted to make a jacket that was pretty and feminine. I could already see myself wearing it very well with a dress and boots rather than with jeans and ankle boots. It's the kind of sewing project you already get excited about at the thought of starting!

I assembled the pattern pieces carefully making sure I was making version 2. So I carefully looked at the cutting chart made by Nanna, the creator of How to do fashion, to select the pieces that corresponded to my version. 

The pieces are assembled edge to edge and the seam allowance is already included so this step was quick and efficient; I’d say about 1 hour. 

I cut the smallest size because the jacket offers a nice ease. 

Then, I read the assembly instructions and thought about the finishes I was going to do. Just because I’m making an unlined jacket doesn’t mean I was going to leave the seam allowances raw! So I decided to edge stitch the inner seams of the jacket. At this stage, I made no modifications to the pattern. 

I cut the pattern pieces in my cappuccino wool fabric, which also took me about an hour. 

Finally, I moved on to the sewing step which took me about 7 hours with the bias finishes; I think without doing the bias finishes I would have taken half the time. 

I’ll let you move on to the next chapter for those who want the assembly instructions in French and want to do the same finishes as me. 

Assembly instructions in French

To simplify reading, I am not repeating the ironing steps which are of course essential, so I count on you to complete them during your sewing. 

1. Assemble: 
- the center back and the back sides together
- the front side and the center front
- the 2 sleeve pieces together

2. Edge stitch:
- the assembly seams of the backs and back side

3. Sew the facing:
- After fusing the back piece, assemble the fronts and back
- edge stitch the outer edge of the facing

4. Assemble:
- the back and fronts at the shoulders
- assemble the facing to the jacket
- trim the corners, turn and press well - you can secure the facing in the shoulder seam. 

5. Pockets: 
- sew the 4 pocket pieces according to the marks indicated on the front sides and back side
- bind the sides you just sewed
- sew the sides and pockets in one step
- bind the pocket bottom 

6. Hem:
- bind the lower edge of the jacket (not the facing)
- fold the facing onto the right side of the jacket and sew the jacket and facing 4/5cm from the bottom, trim and turn
- prepare the hem by pressing well and secure with a quick fusible hem or hand invisible stitch.
- make the sleeve hems and secure in the seams. 

7. Waistband
- sew the waistband
- topstitch

Ta-da, it's finished and ready to wear! 

So do you like the result? I love it! 

Sewn as soon as possible, worn immediately for my Sunday walk. 

I want to make some more in a spring version, maybe even summer! 

Find all the patterns by Nanna from How to do fashion here. 

So ready to discover them?

To your needles!