When Nanna, the designer of How to do fashion, agreed to join our PDF sewing pattern collection, I was thrilled! I must say that Nanna offers magnificent vintage patterns that she creates with modern techniques. Obviously, if like me you love vintage cuts like 40s-50s style dresses, coats with incredible cuts, romantic fitted blouses, elegant high-waisted trousers... you will adore this brand. 

I looked, selected, looked again, and finally settled on jacket no. 4: the London jacket in its version 2.

So, ready to head to London with this fitted jacket that I love?

Let’s go!

The pattern

The pattern for the London coat and jacket is the ideal solution to stay warm with style. 

I find that in these 3 versions, this pattern really has a post-war style; very feminine. Depending on the fabric and version chosen, it can transform into a perfect coat for all seasons or a lighter jacket. The two different collars offer many possibilities. 

The jacket is belted and unlined. Difficulty 2 out of 5
- Version 3: Short lined coat with a pretty tie collar. Difficulty 4 out of 5

I chose to sew version 2 of this pattern (even though I hesitated for a long time with version 1); the following explanations will therefore focus on this version. 

As you know, I love beautiful finishes, so just because the jacket is not lined doesn’t mean I wasn’t going to suggest an elegant way to finish the seam allowances. 

I explain it to you below ☺️

Information for sewing this pattern

The How to do fashion patterns are Danish and Nanna, the designer, translated them from Danish into English. 

The instructions in English are easy to translate with Google Translate for those who struggle with Shakespeare's language, and for those who understand English, they are very easy to follow. 

All How to do fashion patterns are available in PDF version on our website. 

The London jacket/coat is available from size XS to XL (see size chart below). Note that both jacket and coat have a nice ease; if you want a closer fit, you can slightly size down. 

In the seamstress's basket

To sew the London jacket in its second version, you will need a medium to heavy weight woven fabric. A wool fabric, a jacquard, a nice gabardine, or why not a linen for a more summery version? The final look of the garment will depend on the type of fabric chosen. This pattern is not suitable for knits. 

To sew version 2, you will need:
- Fabrics 110cm wide XS-XL: 3.5 m or
- Fabrics 140cm wide: XS-M: 2.5 m and L-XL: 3.25 m
- matching thread
- fusible interfacing: 15 cm (50 cm for a hem)

If desired:
- bias tape 20mm about 10m
- quick iron-on hem for heavy fabrics

My supplies

I selected a cappuccino/camel wool fabric from the store (Woluwe) to make a first version. I thought this color was perfect for the slightly 50s style jacket. 

I also selected a "wedding flowers" bias tape in orange and cream tones that stayed within the same color range while adding a bit of pep.

I selected a fusible interfacing and a double-sided fusible tape to make my hem. I just had to choose a thread in a matching color and I was ready to go! 

Technical points and modifications

As I mentioned earlier, version 2 of the London jacket is rated level 2 out of 5 by How to do fashion. 

The proposed jacket is unlined and the suggested finishes for the inside are simple overlocks. I wanted to take the finishes a bit further, so I modified the inner finishes by applying bias tape on the seam. I also finished the jacket with a glued hem secured by stitches. 

The technical points of this jacket:
- cutting thick fabrics
- sewing the facing
- sewing the belt
- sewing the sleeves and assembly 
- bias finishes if desired
- hemming stitch. 

My sewing experience 

I loved making the London jacket because the design caught my eye... I really wanted to make a jacket that was pretty and feminine. I could already see myself wearing it with a dress and boots as well as with jeans and ankle boots. It’s the kind of sewing project you’re already excited about before you even start!

I assembled the pattern pieces carefully making sure I was making version 2. I closely checked the cutting chart made by Nanna, the creator of How to do fashion, to select the pieces that matched my version. 

The pieces fit edge to edge and the seam allowance is already included, so this step was quick and efficient; I’d say about 1 hour. 

I cut the smallest size because the jacket offers a nice ease. 

Next, I read the assembly instructions and thought about the finishes I was going to make. Just because I was making an unlined jacket didn’t mean I was going to leave the seam allowances raw! So I decided to bind the inner seams of the jacket. At this stage, I made no modifications to the pattern. 

I cut the pattern pieces from my cappuccino wool fabric, which also took me about an hour. 

Finally, I moved on to the sewing step which took me about 7 hours with bias finishes; I think without the bias finishes I would have taken half the time. 

I’ll let you move on to the next chapter for those who want the assembly instructions in French and want to do the same finishes as me. 

Assembly instructions in French

To simplify reading, I’m not repeating the pressing steps which are of course essential, so I’m counting on you to complete them during your sewing. 

1. Assemble: 
- the center back and back sides together
- the front side and center front
- the 2 sleeve pieces together

2. Bind:
- the assembly seams of the backs and back side

3. Sew the facing:
- After fusing the back piece, assemble the fronts and back
- bind the outer edge of the facing 

4. Assemble:
- the back and fronts at the shoulders
- attach the facing to the jacket
- trim the corners, turn and press well - you can secure the facing in the shoulder seam. 

5. Pockets: 
- sew the 4 pocket pieces according to the marks indicated on the front sides and back side
- bind the sides you just sewed
- sew the sides and pockets in one step
- bind the pocket bottom 

6. Hem:
- bind the lower edge of the jacket (not the facing)
- fold the facing onto the right side of the jacket and sew the jacket and facing 4/5cm from the bottom, trim and turn
- prepare the hem by pressing well and secure it with a quick fusible hem or with invisible hand stitching. 
- make the sleeve hem and secure it in the seams. 

7. Waistband
- sew the waistband
- topstitch

Ta-da, it's finished and ready to wear! 

So, do you like the result? I love it! 

Sewn right away, worn right away for my Sunday walk. 

I feel like making more in a spring version, maybe even summer! 

Find all the Nanna patterns from How to do fashion here.

So, ready to discover them?

Get your needles ready!