A pleated blouse: I sew Roséa from Atelier Brizane

When the Roséa blouse from Atelier Brizane joined our beautiful collection of patterns upon its release, I knew I would sew it!

I saw all the potential of this little pleated blouse that could be transformed into a very chic, all-white "shirt blouse," a fun blouse with pretty little prints, or a flowing, twirling blouse if made in viscose!

In short, I was looking for a model to make myself a pretty white blouse in the "modern shirt spirit" by twisting the codes... so I got to work! And since I can't stop and the first one pleased me so much... I immediately made another one that I’ll let you discover below 😊

Let's go, let's dive into discovering Roséa!

The model

The sewing pattern ROSÉA is an elegant and structured blouse model, ideal for sewing a feminine and modern garment. Its design stands out with a pretty play of pleats on the front, bringing originality and comfort to this model. You feel comfortable wearing it. Plus, if you work with a slightly transparent fabric, the pleats will elegantly conceal the chest!

The short gathered sleeves, tightened by a cuff, bring balance and refinement to the whole.

The designer made sure to leave enough ease... let's admit it, we hate when the sleeve cuff pinches our biceps!

At the back, a delicate slit closed by a tied bow adds a touch of charm and femininity to this timeless piece.

ROSÉA is a versatile pattern that adapts to all seasons: to be worn just as well with high-waisted pants in autumn as with light shorts in summer. Whether you are a motivated beginner or an experienced sewer, this pattern will accompany you in creating a chic, comfortable top that is easy to mix and match with your wardrobe.

Practical information for sewing this model

Roséa is available from size 32 to 56 in PDF version in our shop. No worries: the digital pattern is available in A4, A0, and projector formats with size overlays. It's very easy to use!

For my part, I printed in A4 and the assembly was very quick.

The explanatory and illustrated booklet is well detailed and allows beginners to sew this model.

In the sewer’s basket

To sew the Roséa model, the recommended fabrics are woven fabrics. Depending on the desired drape, you can choose a fluid fabric such as viscose or tencel. For a version with more structure, you can opt for linen-viscose, linen, cotton poplin, voile, broderie anglaise, cotton lawn, seersucker, gingham, chambray...

The recommended weight is between 105 (cotton poplin) and 230 g/m².

To sew Roséa you will need: - Fabrics: sizes 32 to 38: 1.70 m; sizes 40 to 46: 1.90 m; sizes 48 to 56: 2.10 m - 50 cm of fine fusible interfacing suitable for your fabric - Coordinated thread - Optional but recommended: marking tool for pleat marks.

My supplies

For my first version

I chose a simple white cotton poplin because I wanted to use decorative stitches to add a touch of originality to my blouse. I wanted a blouse in the false shirt idea to wear over jeans this autumn.

I opted for a white H200 fusible interfacing.

For marking tools, I took a chalk pen, an essential in my sewing kit, and my Japanese ruler that I never leave without! With that, no problem marking the pleats!

For my second version

Yes, I gave in after making the first one. I felt so good in my first version that I wanted to make a second. I went to my stash to find a small piece of polka dot cotton lawn of 1.2m in 110cm width... not enough to make a whole Roséa... but by adding 50cm of plain cotton satin coordinated with my fabric, I had enough to make the sleeves and facings! Ta-da, the second version was underway.

Technical points

Roséa is aimed at intermediate sewers or motivated/supervised beginners in workshops.

There are quite a few technical points that require precision: - Making sewn pleats - Attaching a facing - Back slit with tied cord closure - Gathers for the sleeves - Attaching sleeve cuffs - Hem

Nothing insurmountable in itself but to be satisfied with the finishes, a bit of sewing practice is needed 😊.

Clémentine, the creator of Atelier Brizane, made a video tutorial to help us.

My sewing experience

You always learn when you try new brands and I must say I saved time with Clémentine’s method for marking pleats.

Usually, I do it with thread and it takes a bit of time. Clémentine suggests marking them with chalk after cutting on the markings... and well, it saved me a lot of time!

I must say all the marks line up perfectly at the pleats, it’s simple and effective just the way I like it!

Of course, this won’t replace carefully pinning all your pleats but it’s already a big help.

I chose to make decorative stitches on the center of the yoke, on the sleeve cuffs, and on the hem of my first version.

It creates an "embroidery" effect that I really like. Be sure to have a well-filled bobbin when you opt for fancy stitches that use a lot of thread.

After sewing this first version and trying it on, I was so satisfied that for fun I immediately sewed another one.

I’m delighted to have been able to use my precious little cotton lawn coupon that was patiently waiting for the right project. Since I didn’t have enough, I supplemented the yardage with a piece of plain cotton satin to make the sleeves and facings. I used the cotton lawn scrap to make the sleeve cuffs and to echo the bodice.

I think it turned out pretty well.