At C'est du Joly we are fans of Japanese fabrics, and this love has been long-standing! So, I wanted to give a complete overview of these beautiful fabrics and patterns that make my heart beat! 

Lover of Japanese tradition, its rituals, rhythm, and poetic meanings, I wanted to share why Japanese fabrics stand out from European fabrics. We will therefore talk about the specificities of Japanese fabric and especially the meaning of the symbols that adorn these magnificent fabrics.

We will also see how to adjust your yardage to create your projects because... yes, Japanese fabrics share the same width as American and African fabrics... They are 110cm wide!

So, let's get started with sharing! 

A bit of history

The textile industry has a long history in Japan due to its geographical location near China, Korea, and India... especially in weaving (silk spinning) and dyeing!

The traditional materials used by Japanese weavers and dyers are silk, hemp, cotton, and ramie.  

For centuries, the Japanese, faithful to the pursuit of perfection in imperfection, refined their craftsmanship. Sophistication increased with uses to meet the population's demands: workers needing durable and resistant clothing, the lavish silk court, priests, and also the performing arts. Think of the sumptuous geisha outfits or the costumes of traditional theater actors...

Then, as everywhere in the world, the era of industrialization arrived, and the Japanese textile industry became one of the first pillars of Japan's economic modernization. Japan would excel in product quality, especially in weaving and dyeing cottons, but also silk and linen. Even today, the Japanese textile industry is recognized worldwide, and you probably have products from Japan in your wardrobe... 

Did you know, for example, that the zipper leader YKK is Japanese and still manufactures billions of pieces per year! Did you know that Japanese denim is one of the best in the world? Beyond the industrial and modern side, the Japanese are committed to preserving and showcasing their traditional arts, especially with people who have received the title of living national treasure; what could be compared to the best craftsmen of France. 

I was lucky during a trip to Japan to visit a silk spinning mill and a spinning workshop for making traditional kimonos in the suburbs of Kyoto, a visit ending with the discovery of hand-painted silk kimonos... An incredible moment for a fabric and fashion fan like me but also for the artisans surprised that Europeans would visit their small workshops! 

What sets Japanese textiles apart from European fabrics?

1. The color palette

Europe rediscovered in the 70s (thanks to the late Kenzo Takada) the beautiful, very colorful prints from Japan. Indeed, at that time Kenzo made a sensation in the fashion world with these floral patterns! 

What stands out about the Japanese color palette is its richness but also the quality of the dye! Indeed, textile dyeing is a key step in textile production and is a Japanese specialty. Japan has developed many techniques and refined their quality. I'm sure you've heard of indigo dyeing or shibori dyeing techniques...

This know-how, passed down traditionally (think of master dyers), allows for:

• depth in color
• a richness of shades, nuances...
• durability in dyeing
• all this with the utmost respect for the fiber.

The Japanese also have great mastery in adding metallic colors like gold and silver with excellent durability, allowing these fabrics to be used in clothing sewing. 

2. The richness of prints 

In Europe, we have the language of flowers; in Japan, it is through the patterns worn on clothing or on the furoshiki of the gift offered that a whole range of feelings is expressed. 

Patterns are symbols and are associated with concepts... For example, the dragonfly is a symbol of courage, strength, and determination... The reason is that the dragonfly can only fly forward. It is therefore quite naturally that it adorned samurai helmets, thus proving their determination by not retreating before the enemy! 

So, while in Europe one can refer to the old-fashioned symbolism of the language of flowers, in Japan, feelings and emotions are depicted in Japanese fabric; whether noble for kimonos or simple lightweight weaves for a summer yukata, the choice of fabric and pattern is governed by the message one wants to convey.

The most frequently used patterns are:

• geometric motifs often inspired by nature or everyday objects 
• floral/plant motifs
• animal motifs

Among the patterns geometric, we can mention:

• seigaiha inspired by the wave
• asanoha inspired by the hemp leaf
• igeta inspired by the rim of ancient wells
• kanoko inspired by deer patterns
• samehada inspired by shark skin
• sensu inspired by fans
• ...

Among the patterns floral and plant motifs, we can mention:

• the cherry blossom (sakura)
• the plum (ume)
• the maple (momiki / kaede)
• the bamboo (take)
• the peony (botan)
• the chrysanthemum (kiku)
• ...

Among the patterns animal motifs, we can mention:

• the koi carp
• the dragonfly
• the peacock
• the butterfly
• the dragon
• the crane
• the rabbit
• the cat, the most famous of which is the maneki neko
• ...

3. The quality of the weave

My students often tell me that it is difficult, after sewing with Japanese quality, to go back to lower quality woven fabrics... and for good reason, Japanese cotton fabrics are finely and tightly woven which results in very beautiful quality fabrics - it's undeniable - but above all easy to sew! 

Indeed, these are fabrics that (almost) don’t shrink when washed, whose colors stay vibrant wash after wash, and especially that don’t shift under the presser foot. This is partly because the Japanese are known to be the most demanding consumers in the world, which obviously drives the quality of their production to excellence. 

Choosing the right fabric length for your project

As I mentioned earlier, the "real" Japanese fabrics have a usable width between 108 and 112cm. So sometimes it’s necessary to recalculate the required fabric length for your project, even though more and more pattern brands provide the needed lengths for 140 and 110cm widths. 

Note that it is now possible to find fabrics with Japanese-inspired patterns in 140cm width. However, even if the patterns resemble traditional Japanese fabrics, know that most of these are lower-quality fabrics coming from China. 

To help you calculate your fabric lengths, I made this handy little chart (which I use myself regularly). Note that it’s valid up to about size 44 and is only an approximation.  

Another technique is to take the heights. For example, if you want to make a simple blouse in Japanese cotton, you count:

• a front height 
• a back height 
• a sleeve height

For example, for a top: front height 60cm + back height 60cm + sleeve height 30cm = 1.3m of fabric for my blouse. 

Here’s a little glimpse of the Japanese fabrics, did you like it? Let me know in the comments, I always love reading your feedback! 

And if you want to learn more or chat with me, feel free to stop by the workshop shop—I’d be delighted to share my passion with you.

So, all that's left to do is get started! 

Get your needles ready!