At the beginning of 2021, I wrote an article about the importance of washing your fabric before sewing it and a few weeks ago, I talked to you about the importance of pre-shrinking wool... So, I thought it would be worth revisiting this topic given the many questions I receive in the shop and workshop.

So let's get started talking about the verb "décatir"!

Essential brief definition

Décatir means to remove the "cati" from the fabric.

The "cati" originally referred to a starch-based finish used to make new fabrics firmer and shinier.

However, nowadays, the term décatir tends to have a broader meaning. It is increasingly used in the general sense of "preparing" the fabric before the sewing project.

For purists, know that we will use the term décatir in the "broad sense".

But ultimately, why is it necessary to décatir / prepare your fabric before using it?

Why should some fabrics be décatir / prepared?

The first reason is the potential shrinkage of the fabric during the first wash. Indeed, natural fibers (cotton, linen, hemp...) tend to tighten during the first wash. High-quality cotton shrinks little, linen and wool shrink a bit more (sometimes up to 10%). It is therefore important to prepare your fabric or risk not fitting into the garment you carefully made...

The second reason is to remove the finish that the manufacturer applied to the fabric to enhance it (removing the "cati", the original meaning of décatir). This finish gives the fabric a certain stiffness and stabilizes it. It is important to remove this layer before sewing your garment to see the fabric’s true drape; and to check if this is the fluidity you want for your garment.

The third reason is that your fabric may bleed, meaning the dye may run. Indeed, the fibers are saturated with pigments that will dissolve in the washing water. Blue, black, and red fabrics are the most likely to bleed. Who hasn’t had blue hands when handling a new jeans?

Finally, the fourth reason is that washing removes dust, microorganisms, etc., that the fabric may have encountered during manufacturing, transport, and storage...

But be careful, not all fabrics should be washed!

Which types of fabrics should be décatir / prepared?

It is necessary to décatir / prepare all fabrics made of natural fibers such as cotton poplin, wool, linen, or silk. Indeed, the risk of shrinkage is present for these textiles. Don’t forget that artificial fibers based on natural fibers like viscose also need to be décatir.

Synthetic fibers such as polyester do not require décatissage before sewing. And of course, you do not décatir textiles like synthetic leather imitations or non-washable fabrics...

What methods are used to décatir?

First, make sure you know the composition of your fabric coupon to know the washing conditions.

The best way is to subject the fabric to the washing conditions it will experience once sewn: gentle/hand wash, machine wash on a specific program/temperature, dry cleaning...

Washing the fabric is ideal for décatir but there are other techniques as well.

1. Décatir by washing

You can décatir by hand washing or running a laundry program that will be used for caring for your finished item. However, take into account the care instructions of your fabric when choosing the washing program.

This is the method I use most often but it requires some anticipation before sewing your project. Another technique is to wash all your coupons before storing them; that way, when you feel like sewing a coupon, you know it’s already ready and you can start right away.

2. Décatir by steaming

Another way that is more "instant" is décatissage with a steam iron. Indeed, you can décatir with a steam iron if you are in a hurry or don’t have time to wash your fabric before sewing it. Décatir with steam has the advantage of being very quick but focuses on removing the finish. For example, it does not allow the pigments in the fabric to bleed out.

This technique is even easier if you have a steam generator iron. With the steam output of this device, décatissage will be much more effective and easier 😊.

So, ready to sew your projects? And how do you prepare your fabrics?

To your needles... or rather to your iron 😊!