I wanted to take advantage of the arrival of my super order of Japanese fabrics and the pleasure it gave me to unpack these wonders to talk to you about these fabrics so dear to my heart! 

I think you already know that I am in love with Japanese fabrics and prints and that C'est du Joly was partly born from this double passion for sewing and Japan! After lifting 600kg of fabrics (yes, small but strong 😊 and helped too 😂), I wanted to explain to you everything that can be made with these fabrics. We will also see how to adjust your yardage to create your projects because Japanese fabrics share the same width as American and African fabrics... They are 110cm wide!

 So, ready to discover the fascinating world of Japanese fabrics? Let's go!

What is Japanese fabric?

The term "Japanese fabrics" usually groups fabrics with two specificities: on the one hand they are made in Japan and on the other hand, their patterns come from Japanese culture. 

You will therefore find a wide variety of fabrics: cotton poplins, cotton crepes, cotton and linen blends, cotton lawn, brocades, silks, double gauzes, denim... one common point being that they are produced in narrow widths. Most often, they are 108 to 112cm wide. There are also very small rolls with widths of about 34 to 37cm... which are used notably for kimonos. 

You might tell me that you have already seen fabrics with Japanese patterns with widths of 140 or 150cm. Unfortunately, these are imitations which, from our experience, are absolutely not at the same quality level! 

That is why we work directly with Japanese companies to guarantee the origin of the products. We have specialized in 100% cotton popelines, cotton-linen blended canvases, and cotton lawn (the same weave as English liberty).

What are the specificities of Japanese fabric?

In addition to coming from Japan and having a narrower width than European fabric, Japanese fabrics have specific characteristics. 

1. The weaving quality 

The Japanese are renowned worldwide for demanding quality, even excellence. Needless to say, this is reflected in their fabrics. Japanese cotton fabrics are finely and tightly woven, which gives them a very beautiful quality - it’s undeniable - but above all easy to sew! Indeed, they (almost) do not shrink in the wash, the colors remain vivid wash after wash and do not shift under the presser foot. These are fabrics that even beginners in sewing can sew without fear!

2. The color palette 

Japan has developed over time, thanks to its master dyers, many techniques: indigo dyeing, shibori, etc. This artisanal know-how, passed down traditionally from generation to generation, has also been used in industrial techniques; notably during the Meiji era. 

The important points respected by Japanese industries are:

• the depth of colors (saturation)
• the richness of shades and nuances
• the durability of the dye 
• respect for the fiber
• the mastery of adding metallic colors like gold and silver with excellent wash resistance. 

In our shop, you will find many fabrics with silver and gold prints. These are very durable and do not "fade" in the wash. The only condition to respect is to wash your fabric in a laundry bag during the first wash and then wash your garment inside out.

Why? Simply to preserve the silver and gold prints from the friction of the machine drum for as long as possible. 

3. The richness of printed 

In Japan, traditional motifs and symbols have cultural importance.

The choice of fabric and motif is thoughtful depending on the message one wants to convey. For example, the maneki neko is a good luck charm and symbol of success, the tiger symbolizes strength and bravery while the cherry blossom symbolizes renewal... so many messages to pass on...    

There are 3 main types of motifs:  

• Geometric motifs often inspired by nature or everyday objects like seigaiha inspired by waves, asanoha inspired by hemp leaves, igeta inspired by the rims of old wells, kanoko inspired by deer patterns, samehada inspired by shark skin, sensu inspired by fans...
  
  
• Floral and plant motifs like cherry blossom (sakura), plum (ume), maple (momiji / kaede), bamboo (take), peony (botan), chrysanthemum (kiku), wisteria (Fuji), camellia (tsubaki)...
  
  
• Animal motifs like the koi carp, dragonfly, peacock, butterfly, dragon, crane, rabbit, cat including the most famous maneki neko, tiger...

In short, there is a choice and something for every taste! 

What to sew with Japanese fabrics?

Japanese fabric popelines have a certain stiffness. It is therefore necessary to choose a clothing model that itself has a bit of "rigidity". Models requiring fluidity are not suitable. 

In other words, we cannot make:

• a flowing, light dress but rather a shirt dress, pinafore, with a yoke...
• a flowing skirt but a pleated or straight skirt
• a flowing pair of pants but pants with a bit more structure or even shorts in cotton/linen blends!

On the other hand, we can easily sew a kimono jacket, a lined jacket, a blouse, a shirt, a shirt dress, a straight dress, a camisole, a bomber jacket... in short, there are many possibilities and much more than just kimonos!

Japanese fabric yes, but for which patterns?

1. dresses 

All shirt dresses Anguun from Coralie Bijasson (or the Angkor short jumpsuit from the same designer) or Hermès from Iam patterns, straight dresses like the Alabama from Coralie Bijasson, thin strap dresses like the centaurée from Deer and Doe or the Adriana from Coralie Bijasson, ...

2. tops

All camisoles like the Ségur from Little Cozy world, blouses like the Adrienne or Hermes shirt from Iam Patterns, blouses with structure like the violette from Maison Fauve 

3. pants and shorts

4. skirts 

straight skirts like the Caroline from Atelier des premières, or Sandrine from Coralie Bijasson... but also pleated skirts 

5. jackets

A Natasha bomber from Coralie Bijasson, a Hathor body warmer from Iam patterns, a Naïma from Coralie Bijasson, an irresistible men's bomber from les beaux gosses...

6. coat linings

And yes, why not line the inside of a jacket or coat body with a pretty Japanese print?

7. men's blouses and shirts

We think of the elegant ones from Beaux Gosses or the surfer shirt

8. for all accessories 

Bags, printed, baskets, laptop printed,  fanny pack, messenger bag, tote bag, ...

9. for details of other garments : pocket bottom, facings, inner belts of skirts and pants...

I love to recover small scraps of Japanese fabric and give them a second chance in garment pockets but also in small details like facings, belt linings... wow effect guaranteed! 

How to calculate the yardage for your project?

More and more patterns specify yardage needs for 110cm wide fabrics and that's great! We are waiting for all brands to adopt this! 

In the meantime, here is how I calculate the yardage needs for my projects when not specified for 110cm widths. 

This table can help you. Note that it works up to size 44. For larger sizes, see below 😊

If you are above size 44 in classic commercial sizes, don't panic! It is possible to manage with just a tape measure. It is then necessary to count fabric heights for: 

• a front: one height
• a back: one height
• a straight sleeve: one height
• a balloon or pleated sleeve: two heights
• pants: two leg heights + 20cm if belt
• a skirt: two skirt length heights + 20cm if belts
• a dress: add front height, back, sleeves, and skirts...
• and so on

For my part, I often add 20 to 30 cm to be sure to have enough for hems, seam allowances, and the small percentage of shrinkage due to washing

There you go, I hope this article has given you a little more knowledge about the beautiful Japanese fabrics so dear to my heart. 

Feel free to discover our "jolye" selection in which I spent a lot of time and research to offer you the cream of the crop! 

And now, all that's left to do is ... so get your needles ready!