You know my passion for Japan, its culture, its landscapes, its gastronomy... but also its textiles! This week, I take you on a discovery of chirimen, a very special Japanese fabric!
I love it and of course I splurged during my last trip to Japan, I ordered some!
Second splurge when it arrived in the shop for me to sew a perfect red dress for nice weather! So, discover this beautiful material that joins our assortment in 5 colors, each more beautiful than the last!
What is chirimen?
The term chirimen encompasses a set of fabrics made in Japan according to a very particular Japanese weaving technique. Indeed, to create chirimen, the weaver will use two different threads that will be twisted in different directions, thus obtaining a twist in the fabric. This twist allows the creation of a relief in the form of characteristic small waves.
All Japanese fabrics made using this technique (komarinko, kodai, Ishikoshi, kinsha...) will bear the name chirimen.
Chirimen is somewhat like Japanese crepe 😊.
Since they have a relief with the appearance of small waves, chirimen fabrics reflect light well; they therefore have a certain shine. Made with the greatest care, you will see that chirimen fabrics are very pleasant to the touch.
A bit of history...
If the Japanese have glorified the patterns and perfected the techniques, it is thanks to a Chinese weaver that chirimen won the hearts of the Japanese! It was around the beginning of the Edo period that this Chinese weaver came to settle near Osaka. Kansai has a great textile history and the weavers of the Nishijin district quickly became interested in these new techniques! Subsequently, other weavers tried their hand at it successfully, such as those from the Tango province located to the north of Kyoto Prefecture.
An exceptional production of silk chirimen is owed to the city of Yosano, where residents produced "Tango" chirimen to make kimonos for the elite and thus ensure their livelihood. The historic districts of Yogano still house merchant houses from the Meiji, Taisho, and Showa eras dedicated to the sale of chirimen.
The tradition of chirimen weaving received a global distinction in April 2017, the "Tango Chirimen Route, 300 years of silk weaving" was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site, covering four municipalities in the Tango region, including Yosano.
Yosano still offers silk chirimen kimonos that you can buy or rent for events or for the pleasure of a traditional photo session.
Nowadays, chirimen is made of what material?
Originally, chirimen fabrics were only made with silk and were reserved for the wealthiest of the Japanese archipelago. Nowadays, thanks to the importation of raw materials and technology, chirimen weaving has become more accessible.
You can find chirimen fabrics in different materials:
- in cotton,
- in polyester
- in viscose
- in blended materials
- and of course in silk!
Advantages and points of attention of chirimen
The first advantage is having a rather exceptional and unique fabric that your neighbor won't be wearing! But beyond that, one undeniable asset of this fabric is that it hardly wrinkles. This has the advantage of staying beautiful in all circumstances but also of not needing to be ironed. You hang it on a hanger and let it dry! Everything we look for!
Moreover, chirimen is light and slightly elastic due to its crepe weave. This gives it a certain comfort when worn but also in hot weather; which is highly sought after in summer in Japan. Indeed, it does not stick to the skin.
It is also quite a chic fabric because of its light reflections.
Finally, it is a durable fabric due to its weaving. Let's not forget that chirimen was used for kimonos that are passed down for at least 3 generations.
The points to watch for with chirimen are its care. Indeed, it is preferable to wash your chirimen by hand and in cold water or to have it dry cleaned. This for two reasons: to keep its texture and shine and also because it tends to shrink over time.
Chirimen for what sewing level?
Chirimen itself is not difficult to sew. The difficulty depends more on the material in which it is woven.
A cotton chirimen will be within reach of any sewing beginner, while viscose chirimen will give you more of a challenge 😊.
What to sew with chirimen?
As you read above, historically chirimen was mainly used for kimonos.
For my part, I use Japanese fabric for my everyday clothes, whether for tops: blouses, shirts, tops, and camisoles, or for bottoms like skirts and light pants, as well as dresses and jumpsuits...
Obviously, you don't go unnoticed but honestly, adding colors to your life doesn't hurt!
So, ready to sew some chirimen?
Discover the selection here as well as all our beautiful Japanese fabrics here.
Get your needles ready!
