Do you know double gauze, this fabric used since the Middle Ages in Europe and since the 8th century in Japan? Since I received beautiful double gauze from Nani Iro and Kokka at the shop, I thought I would invite you to dive into the fascinating world of this beautiful fabric that is double gauze!

Before talking about double gauze... let's talk about gauze.

Gauze is a very fine, very light, and very airy fabric.

Gauze is made by a weave threads spaced apart, which makes it transparent. It is therefore a fabric classified in the "warp and weft" category. Gauze has a weave called "leno" in English or "pas de gaze" in French. To create this particular weave: two warp threads cross around the weft threads. Simply put, the threads are spaced apart but interlaced (with twists), which makes the fabric very airy yet stable; this is very important to prevent deformation. Today, there are three methods to create these famous twists: the French, English, and Japanese methods.

And what about double gauze?

Well, as you might have guessed, double gauze is made by joining two layers of gauze together. These two layers are attached at regular intervals using small stitches that hold the whole together. These stitches are undetectable on the front side of the fabric. 

Combining these two layers counters a disadvantage of single gauze, which is transparency; double gauze is therefore much less transparent! This also has the advantage that we do not necessarily have to line double gauze, which is very comfortable and can be worn directly on the skin. 

Moreover, having these two layers allows for a slightly heavier fabric, which will have a nice drape comparable to that of linen.

What are the uses of double gauze?

As mentioned above, double gauze has many advantages; it is:

• lightweight
• airy
• breathable
• absorbent
• comfortable on the skin
• easy to care for

It is for these characteristics that it is so often used to make baby and toddler clothing as well as summer garments. It is no surprise to have seen it develop so quickly in Asia and Japan, where there are many regions with hot and humid climates. Double gauze met the need for lightweight, breathable, and comfortable clothing.

Today, double gauze is used to make swaddles, sleeping bags, soft toys, children's clothing like pajamas, summer dresses, and skirts. Adults are not left out, especially in women's fashion, as double gauze is highly sought after for making scarves, tops, and summer dresses. I made my Ségur top in a mimosa double gauze that I gladly wear during summer heat waves; it feels like wearing nothing at all, so light and breathable the fabric is.

How to sew double gauze?

Double gauze is a fabric a bit more complex to sew than cotton and linen due to its double layer. However, it is accessible to beginners with some experience and can be a new challenge for them.

Preparing the fabric

IIt is highly recommended to prewash your double gauze before sewing it. A delicate wash cycle at 30°C is advised. You can also put it in a "laundry bag" during subsequent washes to protect it. 

Double gauze does not like spinning or tumble drying. Prefer air drying. 

For ironing, use a low temperature or just a quick steam to relax the fibers. Another advantage of double gauze is that you can skip ironing and even wear it slightly wrinkled. 

Materials for sewing it

• Pins: favor fine pins to prepare assembling your pieces. This will help avoid snags.
• Marking tools: if you need to mark your fabric, I recommend tailor's chalk rather than erasable markers. 
• Machine needles: Choose a fine needle; the standard size 70 needle can work, or even better, you can invest in a microtex needle (size 60) which will give you a more regular stitch.      
• Thread: a standard polyester thread is recommended. 

Techniques for sewing it

Since double gauze has an airy weave, it tends to fray on the raw edges of your pieces. It is therefore highly recommended to overcast (using a serger or the zigzag stitch on your machine) the edges of your pieces.

Another way to avoid overcasting is to use the French seam method, which will give a very neat finish to your project. 

There you go, you know everything to get started sewing with double gauze! Now all that's left is to choose your patterns. As for me, I think there will be summer dresses and tops made from this beautiful, so comfortable fabric. 

Get your needles ready!