The gathered waist skirt from Artesane

I mentioned on Facebook the Artesane masterclass for sewing your paperbag skirt and that it was possible to download the pattern for free on the Artesane website... Well, I gave in too and sewed my own version in a gorgeous fabric from the Echino brand. It’s a cotton and linen blend fabric available in the shop in 3 colors. I shortened it to better suit my petite shape/height.

And I’m a huge fan of this skirt, both for how it looks and how comfortable it is!

A paperbag skirt is a high-waisted skirt with pressed pleats at the waist that create a "paper bag folds" effect, hence the name... it’s a very feminine skirt that really highlights the waist. Because of its pleats at the waist, it can add volume; so it may not be flattering for all body shapes.
The pattern is available for free as a PDF on the Artesane website from size 34 to 50.

To select your size, refer to the measurement chart. Since this is a paperbag skirt with pleats at the waist, the waist measurement is really what matters for choosing your size. The hip measurement is not really relevant because the skirt is very loose due to the pleat openings.

Seam allowances are included and are 1cm.

To make this paperbag skirt, what do we find in the seamstress’s basket?

1. The fabric

It is necessary to choose a fabric that has some body so the pleats are well defined and hold up throughout the day. Choose a medium-weight fabric (180 to 250g). If it’s lighter, your skirt won’t drape nicely; if it’s heavier, your fabric might feel stiff and you’ll have bulk at the waist.

To sew size 36, I used 1.5m of Echino fabrics with a width of 110cm.

2. Interfacing

You will need to select it based on the fabric chosen. Choose woven and good quality. It will slightly stiffen the waistband and the top of the skirt to create nice pleats.

3. Haberdashery

You will need to choose 2 medium-sized buttons, an invisible zipper at least 25cm long (because this is a high-waisted skirt with sewn pleats and a 20cm zipper might be too short to fit your hips), and of course thread matching your fabric.

Sewing steps

You can find Artesane’s masterclass on Youtube which details the assembly, and I invite you to watch it alongside my little notes ;-)

1. Cut your pattern pieces and transfer the markings (especially the pleats, which are the most important part of your paperbag skirt)

2. Interline the waistband facing (the fold) (interline the top of the front and back skirt pieces up to the fold line) and interline the decorative waistband (one side or both depending on your fabric)

3. Overlock the skirt sides (serger or zigzag stitch on your sewing machine)

4. Press the fold of the waistband facing with an iron.

5. Sew the skirt sides together (respect the notches)

6. Overlock the top edges of the back and front in one step.

7. Insert the invisible zipper at the center back (make sure it’s placed just below the fold line)

8. Prepare your pleats by pressing them then stitching them. It’s normal to stitch into the facing. The pleats measure 5cm.

9. Sew the sides of the facing onto the zipper tape at the back. The nicest way is to sew by hand.

10. Assemble the two pieces of the decorative waistband right sides together (make sure to leave an open space on a straight line so you can turn your waistband). Trim and turn your waistband. Close the "hole" with hand stitching.

11. Attach the waistband on both sides of the back zipper (watch the alignment). Sew the buttons through all the layers.

12. Make your skirt hem... TA-DA!