It isn't always easy to match a fabric to a sewing project. Yet that combination is essential if you want to make something you'll love wearing. Now that it's time to think about spring and summer sewing, I'd like to introduce some lovely fabrics to work with for the season.
Woven fabrics
Woven fabrics made from natural fibres are often very pleasant to wear in summer. They are breathable and come in many different materials, weaves, patterns and colours!
I advise against artificial materials such as polyester, which aren't breathable. In very hot weather, they will make you sweat, and if you use them for a top, you risk unpleasant odours.
Cotton poplin
The cotton poplin is one of my favourite materials to sew and wear. It is easy to sew, making it very accessible to beginners. Because it is cotton, it has all the breathable properties of that fibre. It is also easy to find in shops, with a huge choice of colours and patterns.
It is a lightweight fabric, generally weighing between 110 and 140 g/m². It's perfect for blouses, shirts, skirts, dresses, lightweight trousers and jumpsuits...
I love using patterns in my summer creations, particularly my dresses. For those, I use Japanese cotton poplins. Their lovely body makes them suitable for shirt dresses; I often lengthen the bruyère shirt by Deer and Doe pattern. They also make wonderfully original pleated skirts: a sure way to wear a unique garment. You'll find beautiful Japanese cottons in the shop, so do take a look!
Want to know more about cotton poplin? The full article is here.
Cotton lawn and cotton voile
The cotton lawn looks a little dressier than cotton poplin. Its fine, closely woven structure gives it a silky appearance. Like poplin, it is 100% cotton and has all the benefits of cotton in summer!
It is also accessible to beginners because it hardly slips. You can create garments with an elegant finish without using more challenging materials such as silk.
Cotton lawn is lightweight, generally between 110 and 130 g/m², making it comfortable to wear in summer. Its soft, silky feel is very pleasant against the skin.
Cotton voile resembles cotton lawn and is often confused with it. The main difference is the thread count and weave. Cotton voile is also light, but it doesn't have the silky appearance typical of cotton lawn. It is another very pleasant summer fabric!
Want to know more about cotton lawn? The full article is here.
Viscose and Tencel: in poplin, twill, serge, crêpe...
The viscose and the Tencel are made from natural wood fibres, such as beech, birch, eucalyptus and bamboo. They therefore both have the benefits of natural fibres.
These two fabrics are much more fluid than poplin and a little more fluid than cotton lawn. That makes them somewhat harder to handle and less accessible to beginners.
However, that very fluidity makes them particularly interesting for light, flowing garments such as loose blouses, dresses with beautiful drape and flowing trousers...
Want to know more about viscose? The full article is here and the article on Tencel is here
Double gauze
The double gauze is a summer essential! Light, breathable and pleasant against the skin, it's a standout material. Its lovely softness makes it perfect for children's and baby clothes.
It is also easy to sew.
It works well for dresses and blouses, as well as bloomers, baby bunting bags, bodysuits...
Double gauze comes in different qualities and therefore at different prices. Its quality depends on its weave, and several techniques are used. That's why some budget double gauzes lose their shape, or have irregular patterns. Pay attention to value for money when shopping.
A little note: some double gauzes have gold-coloured printed motifs. These must always be ironed on the reverse, and the garment should be washed inside out to preserve the gold print.
Want to know more about double gauze? The full article is here.
Broderie anglaise and other embroidered fabrics
Broderie anglaise belongs to the whitework embroidery family. It has openwork holes that highlight the empty spaces in the fabric. Those spaces and the embroidery around them form the pattern.
You can use it as an all-over fabric, as a trim, or choose fabric embroidered along its width.
Broderie anglaise is perfect for light summer outfits: dresses, blouses, tops, tunics... It is a timeless fabric and a true staple for women's and children's clothing. Historically, broderie anglaise was white, but today it comes in a wide range of colours and patterns.
Other materials are now also available with embroidery along one or both fabric edges, including cotton, viscose and double gauze...
Linen and linen blends
Linen is a natural material par excellence and very comfortable to wear in summer. It is also a fairly ecological fibre, requiring little water or fertiliser to grow.
However, linen has an unfortunate tendency to crease, which often means it is used less for clothing. One way around this is a cotton-linen blend, which retains linen's cool feel while the added cotton makes the fabric less prone to creasing.
You'll find lovely Japanese cotton-linen blends in the shop, great to work with for skirts, tops and accessories.
Knit fabrics
There is also plenty of choice among knits for spring and summer! As with woven fabrics, I recommend natural materials.
Cotton and viscose jersey
The cotton jersey and viscose jersey remain essentials for T-shirts, vests and Breton tops... They are pleasant to work with and can be sewn very quickly with an overlocker.
They also come in different textures and patterns, such as slub and rib...
A fun option is to use jersey bias binding or ribbing to finish the neckline or sleeve edges of your T-shirts, giving them a playful and/or contrasting touch.
Want to know more about jersey? The full article is here, and you can read about jersey bias binding here
Pointelle knit
The pointelle knit is, I think, used far too little in sewing, even though it's incredibly comfortable to wear and a little more original than what you tend to find in ready-to-wear!
Want to know more about pointelle knit? The full article is here.
French terry
If, like me, you live somewhere where it can be 14°C in the middle of July, it's a good idea to plan a little jacket or a lightweight sweatshirt. For that, french terry, also known as loopback sweatshirt fabric, is perfect! Neither too warm nor too cool, it lets you cover up without feeling too hot. It's also useful for cooler summer evenings.
It is very easy to sew and a good basic if you are starting to sew knits. Pair it with tubular ribbing or ribbing strips.
That rounds off my look at enjoyable fabrics to sew for spring and summer. There are many others, but these are the most common and easiest to find in fabric and haberdashery shops.
You'll find a carefully chosen selection of these fabrics in our haberdashery. Do take a look.
Happy sewing!
