It’s not always easy to navigate the jargon of a profession, and sewing is no exception!
It also has its essential terms if you don’t want to pull your hair out in front of an assembly guide or a pattern... Technical terms are important to know because they help us understand sewing processes. The more you know, the more sewing will seem logical and clear, and you will be able to play with it!
So I decided to go through with you 10 essential terms to better understand sewing.
1. Selvage
The selvage is a term specific to fabric.The selvage corresponds to the edges along the length of your fabric. Also, when the fabric is on a bolt, you can see the selvage at the ends of the bolt. On most fabrics, the selvage is woven more tightly, so it is clearly visible. Often on the selvage, you can find information such as the manufacturer's name, brand, fabric name, eco-labels, color codes of patterns, weight...
An important related term connected to the selvage is the lengthwise direction.
The lengthwise direction is always parallel to the selvage. Remember this term well; we will need it to talk about grain 😊.
The lengthwise direction is called the warp direction.
2. Width
The width, like the selvage, is a term specific to fabric.
The width corresponds to the width of your fabric. This measurement never changes for a given fabric. When you buy fabric, you buy a certain length (50cm, 1m, 3m...) along the width (110cm, 140cm...).
The width varies depending on the fabric's origin. For garment making, in Europe, fabrics are mostly produced with a width of 140cm. In Asia and the United States, garment fabrics generally have a width of 110cm.
For upholstery fabrics, the widths are wider depending on the fabric's use. You can find widths of 2.4m, 3m...
Let's add an important term to know related to the fabric width: the width direction.
The width direction is perpendicular to the selvage. The width direction is called the weft direction.
3. Grain
Grain is a term specific to fabric.
The grain can be: the warp grain or the weft grain. If no specification is given, it refers to the warp grain.
The warp grain runs parallel to the selvage; it is in the warp direction. It determines how to place the pieces of your garments. On your patterns, it is symbolized by an arrow. This allows all the pieces to be placed in the same direction of the fabric but especially in the same weaving direction. This prevents your pieces from deforming and ensures the durability of your garment.
If you do not respect the straight grain when making a garment, you may also have problems with elasticity and deformation, with pieces stretching over time.
Can you sew along the weft direction?
Yes! This can be done especially if the fabric pattern is in this direction or if it has embroidered edges. This technique is intended for sewists who already have an experienced sewing level.
4. Bias
Now that you know the weaving directions, it will be very easy to understand what the bias is 😊
The fabric bias is an imaginary line placed at 45° to the straight grain. It is the line that provides the most elasticity and flexibility to your fabric.
The best-known use for the bias direction is the creation of pre-folded bias tape. These are strips of fabric cut on the true bias that will be folded onto themselves. They are used to cover fabric pieces to finish them neatly. Regarding bias strips, you will find them in the haberdashery: cotton, jersey, elastic, lurex.... This makes sewing easier and saves a lot of time.
Can you sew pieces on the bias?
Yes! When you want to make soft garments or drapes. This technique requires a lot of skill and sewing expertise if you want the garment to be successful and not deform over time. This technique is therefore reserved for experts.
5. Seam line
The seam line is a term specific to patterns and sewing techniques.
The seam line on your pattern corresponds to the location of the seam, the place where you will stitch. This line is very important because it gives the final shape of the garment or accessory. It also allows you to enlarge or reduce a garment by moving it.
It is also from this line that we will determine the seam allowances.
6. Seam allowance
The seam allowance corresponds to the amount of fabric between the seam line and the edge of the fabric piece.
The seam allowance value can be added according to our sewing preferences or the type of seam planned for that part of the garment. Seam allowances can therefore vary depending on the location of the piece on the garment. Tailors are very accustomed to this kind of practice.
Most European patterns for clothing offer 1cm seam allowances, while in the United States it's usually 1.5cm. As for Japan, patterns most often provide different seam allowances depending on the pieces.
Note that for lingerie, sportswear (leggings, yoga pants...), seam allowances can be narrower to avoid bulk and friction.
7. Overlocking
Overlocking is a finishing technique. It strengthens the edges of fabric pieces to prevent them from fraying over time.
You can overlock in two different ways:
- with a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine
- with a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
8. Opening seams
Opening seam allowances or seam values is a technical term specific to sewing but also to ironing!
Indeed, opening the seams means running your iron between the two seam allowances to spread them apart. You literally “open” them. Unless otherwise specified in the assembly instructions, it’s recommended to press open your seam allowances after every seam for a clean result.
This technique flattens the seam and arranges the thicknesses on each side of the fabric; it’s less visible on the right side of the garment.
You can also pressing the seams flat, in this case, both seam allowances will be pressed together and placed on the same side.
Open seams
Flat seams
9. Basting
Basting is a sewing technique.
This technique involves preparing the fabric assembly. Seams that are harder to sew directly with the machine (like fluid fabrics) can be pre-assembled with large stitches.
Most of the time, you thread a needle with basting thread (a brittle cotton thread) and sew a line of large hand stitches to hold the fabrics together. Then, all that’s left is to sew with the machine. Thanks to the basting stitch, sewing will be easier.
Basted and stitched collar
Basting thread
10. Notching and trimming
Notching and trimming are two sewing techniques.
Notching simply means making small notches or cuts in the seam allowances. Notching fabric allowances helps reduce fabric tension and is very useful on curves.
To notch precisely, I recommend using small embroidery scissors. This will help you avoid disasters like cutting the seam you just made.
Trimming means trimming the seam allowance. For example, you notch the corners but also thicker fabrics.
Notching
I hope these first 10 words from the sewing lexicon pleased you and brought a little more clarity to these terms.
If you want to learn more about other sewing terms, let me know in the comments... It might be the occasion for a second article 😊
Get your needles ready!
