There are many types of zippers sometimes called: invisible zippers, separable zippers, non-separable, double-slider, injected teeth, metal… not always easy to figure out, especially when you’re new to sewing!
So I invite you to "paint a picture" of this zipper and offer you some advice to help you choose the right zipper for your project.
What is a zipper, a zip, a puller...?
Its function is to open and close an opening, for example a pocket, a bag, or to put on a garment, for example the back zipper of a dress or to put on a skirt.
Each type of zipper has a specific use:
- create an opening
- add a pop to a creation by contrasting the zipper color, with rhinestones, or in a neon version
- make it invisible (undetectable)
- simply decorative
Invisible zipper on my Caroline skirt from Atelier des premières in a corduroy velvet
Gold puller sold by the meter for this Bahia fanny pack
Very discreet separable neon orange puller for this bomber jacket
How to choose your zipper?
There are many types of zippers, each designed for a particular use.
So, when you have a project, refer to the pattern maker’s instructions for the zipper to buy. Once the type of zipper is determined, you can still let your imagination run free for aesthetic and practical aspects.
What are the different types of zippers?
1. Non-separable zippers
Non-separable zippers are the most common zippers. Their particularity lies in their name since the two tapes are fused at the bottom of the zipper, so the two tapes are inseparable and block the slider. These non-separable zippers are used for pants (fly), skirts, jeans, but also pullovers and accessories like pouches, bags, clutches... When you sew these zippers, the teeth will remain visible once the zipper is closed.
2. Invisible zippers
Invisible zippers are like non-separable zippers, not divisible. The tapes are also fused at the bottom. The particularity of invisible zippers is that their teeth are positioned on the reverse side of the tape. This means that once sewn, it is practically invisible and only the slider is visible. So be sure to choose a zipper that matches your fabric.
This makes this type of zipper very discreet and ideal for beautiful finishes on dresses, skirts, pants, blouses.
3. Separable zippers
Unlike the previous two, separable zippers are not fused; in other words, their tapes can be detached from each other. These zippers allow you to fully open a garment like bomber jackets, coats, jackets...
Zippers sold by the meter are offered by the cut and come in long spools. It is then possible to cut a piece of the length needed for your project on which you can add one or more sliders. You can create a double-slider zipper by placing two sliders back to back or face to face.
Zippers sold by the meter are cheaper and can be very helpful when you need a zipper of great length.
These zippers are perfect for making bags, accessories, pouches...
How to choose the length?
The length mentioned for a zipper is always its useful length, that is, from the top stop to the bottom stop. The actual length of your zipper is a few centimeters longer with tape to facilitate sewing your project.
In patterns, it is also the useful length that is always referenced.Does the thickness of the teeth matter?
There are teeth of different thicknesses and compositions: metal, nylon, injected plastic... Their choice is often an aesthetic one depending on the style of your project. Injected plastic will have a more sporty effect, metal teeth will be more chic on jeans...
However, in some cases, for more technical projects where durability is important, such as outdoor projects: sleeping bags, backpacks..., nylon or wider plastic teeth will be more resistant to outdoor conditions than metal.
For classic clothing, choose teeth of 2 to 3mm, which is more than enough.
For small accessories: pouches, bags, 3mm teeth are sufficient.
For bags where you want more robustness, like a travel bag or bowling bag, consider 5mm teeth.
In the shop, we have chosen to offer you the best quality! You will find YKK zippers, the world leader producing no less than 7 billion zippers per year (half of the world’s production). You can really trust their quality and durability!
There you go, I hope this article has given you new knowledge about zippers. To go further, feel free to read or reread the articles dedicated to zippers and to zippers sold by the meter.
Get your needles ready!


