My bib trousers: I sew Fauvette by Instinct Couture

When the Fauvette by Instinct Couture pattern was released, I immediately added it to my sewing wish list! I must say that Fauvette brings together everything I love in trousers: a beautiful high waist, wide legs (wide leg or flare are my favorite cuts), original details, and above all a refined fit!

So I had to make these lovely trousers. I cut them several weeks ago and they waited until last Friday afternoon when I said to myself: "come on, it's your time, little Fauvette trousers, you're going under my presser foot!" 

I share this sewing adventure here. 

The model

Fauvette is an essential pattern in any pattern library because it offers multiple variations!

The basic version is a high-waisted trousers model with a fly, featuring an opening at the front with 4 buttonholes on each side. 

You have the option to sew wide leg trousers (that is, with wide legs from the hips), a fitted cut up to mid-thigh then flared to create a nice movement at the bottom of the leg.

It is also possible to sew trousers with a straighter cut.

But that's not all! Fauvette is also shorts and a skirt!

The shorts version suits both the summer season and autumn/winter with a pair of tights.

Finally, it is possible to sew a skirt, either more fitted (to sew with a stretch fabric) or with a straight cut.

Fake patch pockets dress the back of the model. To add a twist to your look, you can choose to sew a bib and straps for a dungaree effect. It is also possible to sew only the straps (straight or crossed at the back).


Practical information for sewing Fauvette

The pattern is available in our shop in PDF or Printed format.

Fauvette is graded from size 32 to 52 and a children's version from 2 to 12 years with an elastic waistband is also available. 

Seam allowances are included in the pattern and are 1 cm unless otherwise specified.

For these pants, mainly consider your hip measurement. If you are between two sizes, choose the smaller size. If there is more than a 2-size difference between your waist and hip measurements, it is best to grade between the two sizes from the waist to the hips.


In the sewist’s basket

The choice of fabric for the Fauvette pattern will mainly depend on the version you want to sew and the desired look. Some versions can be made with non-stretch fabrics, while others require some stretch to ensure comfort.

Wide leg pants, shorts, and straight skirts can be made from non-stretch fabrics, but using a slightly stretchy fabric can improve comfort.

For the straight-cut pants, it is essential that the fabric contains a small percentage of elastane (1 to 2%).

As for the fitted skirt, a fabric with adequate stretch is essential, such as a woven fabric with 3 to 4% elastane or even stable knits like Milano, for example.

In addition to stretch, a wide range of materials and weaves can be considered: gabardine, denim, twill, velvet, linen, etc. For the lining, scraps of fine fabric such as cotton poplin, viscose or crepe can also be suitable.

To sew the different versions of Fauvette, you will need:

- Shorts & Skirt: 100 cm of fabric (140 cm wide)
- Pants: from size 32 to 42: 170 cm of fabric (140 cm wide); starting from size 42: 200 cm of fabric (140 cm wide) With straps, add: 80 cm of fabric (140 cm wide) 

For all versions add:
- 30 cm of lining
- 50 cm of thin fusible interfacing type H200
- 8 buttons (diameter: 20 mm)
- good quality thread
- For the bias finish: about 1 m of bias (your TT + 10 cm)
- For the version with straps: 2 small buttons (diameter: 12 mm)


Difficulty level and technical points

Fanny classifies the Fauvette pants in category: Level: 3/5 and Time: 3/5 

I really think Fauvette is suitable for intermediate sewists who have already sewn several garments and are eager to learn! Indeed, Fauvette is a pair of pants, a garment a bit more difficult to fit and that includes technical details where precision is essential. 

Nevertheless, Fanny has prepared various diagrams in the booklet that make sewing easier. Additionally, the video tutorial is very detailed and will help sewists throughout their work. 

So I would say Fauvette is for intermediate sewists who want to learn new techniques; advanced sewists will enjoy sewing this well-thought-out pattern. 

The technical points of Fauvette are: 
- sewing thicker fabrics with or without elastane (a good approach for denim)
- sewing facings
- making clips
- making fake patch pockets/with piping
- sewing crotches
- making a belt
- finishing with bias or invisible seams 
- making a belt
- making buttonholes and sewing buttons
- hemming

A nice little program all in all! 


My supplies and alterations

Of course, I chose to sew the wide leg pants with a front flap in denim! I decided to sew it in indigo blue for my first version. It’s a denim that we sell in store, and you’ll find many: classic, colored, and even glittery! 

To select my size, I carefully referred to the size chart. I chose to work with two sizes: 36 at the waist and 40 at the hips to match my exact measurements. I also shortened the leg length by 6cm because I’m petite. For the rest, I made no other changes. 

I chose to sew the pants with navy güterman thread, and for the overlocks I used navy blue cones on the serger. I chose pretty daisy buttons from my stash.

My sewing experience

I loved sewing my Fauvette pants; I must say I had prepared my project for several weeks... and hadn’t yet taken the time to sew it! So when I was able to free up an afternoon to sew, I was really happy to get started! 

To trace the printed pattern and cut the pieces, I spent about 2 hours. 

I overlocked the pants pieces and then it sat waiting for 3 months because other more urgent projects came up...

I picked it up again last Friday afternoon and in 4 hours and 30 minutes, it was sewn! 

The most difficult part for less experienced sewers will be making the fake welt pockets on the back. I didn’t add pocket lining which I don’t find essential; I prefer to overlock the welt and leave it as is. 

I also didn’t modify this part to create real pockets because I think it would add volume to the buttocks and, besides, you really never put anything in this type of pocket. 

The second challenge will be assembling the waistband and making the buttonholes. 

However, nothing insurmountable if you take care. 


Will I make another one? Definitely yes! 

I love the cut that creates a very pretty silhouette. 

Also, Fauvette sizes 32 to 52, so honestly girls, all that's left is to dare!

Get your needles ready! 

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