My Opium coat from Deer And Doe

In this winter season, I couldn't talk about the Opium coat released last year by Deer and Doe, one of my favorite pattern brands, without mentioning it.

I bought it as soon as it was released and sewed it last winter.
I just took it out of the wardrobe again and I still love it because:
- it is an elegant and timeless model.
- it is a model with original details (especially the pockets with their bow effect).
- I sewed it in my favorite color (yes, it matters).
- It is one of the first really difficult pieces I made and so it has a special place in my seamstress heart.

So Opium is:
- a trapeze coat as pretty worn open as closed.
- available in a version with belt (version B; mine) or snap closure (version A).
- raglan sleeves with a pretty side seam, which highlights the slender aspect of the sleeve.
- origami welt pockets reminiscent of a very original "bow" shape.
- a lined coat allowing creativity.

Opium is available in printed format at the price of 14 euros and in PDF format directly on the brand's website at the price of 11 euros.
It should be noted that the sizes range from 34 to 46 for the printed pattern and up to 52 for the PDF version, which corresponds to:
- from 80 to 116cm bust circumference.
- from 60 to 96cm waist circumference.
- from 86 to 122cm hip circumference.

The recommended fabrics to sew Opium are: boiled wool, fulled wool, wool flannel, wool gabardine. For the lining, it is preferable to choose a fabric that "slides" to facilitate dressing, such as silk or viscose.
Count on 3m of fabric at 140cm width and 1.9m for the lining.
For my part, I chose a red fabric, a blend of polyester and wool since it was my first coat, I didn't want to buy an expensive fabric. The lining is in floral Japanese cotton and the sleeves are in a polyester lining (non-electrostatic).
I chose to highlight the lining by edging it with a yellow piping that recalls the heart of the small flowers on the lining.
Finally, since I found the belt too thick with both sides in wool, I chose to use the lining for one side.

As for technicality, Opium is rated category 5 out of 5, that is Expert. Indeed, coats, in general, are full of technical details and are therefore pieces to make after gaining experience with other types of garments. Moreover, the material used to sew coats is often thick and further complicates their making.

For Opium, the technical steps to remember are:
- the making of the piped origami pockets
- the assembly of the raglan sleeves
- the placement of the belt loops for version B
- the assembly of the tailored collar which has a lot of thickness
- the application of the facing
- the assembly of the lining with the finishing of the sleeves
- the hand finishing of the bottom hem
- the placement of the snap buttons (version A) or the creation of the belt (version B).

Facing detail