As you gradually move beyond the beginner level, the need for additional equipment for your sewing kit arises.
Equipment that will help us tame new fabrics, master new techniques, or simply save us time.
I have selected the equipment that I truly found useful when I considered myself an intermediate level in sewing. It is equipment I still use today and that helps and simplifies my life as a sewist!
I invite you to discover my selection of essentials for the evolving sewist.
Let's get started!
1. The somomètre
The somomètre is a small plastic or aluminum tool that allows you to measure sewing values. It is a gauge showing several values; generally: 1, 1.5, 2, 3, 4, 6 cm sometimes with more half-values and higher values depending on the manufacturer.
The advantage of the somomètre (compared to a ruler or a measuring stick) is that it is directly graduated. You just have to turn it to find the "right" value to mark, whether it's 1cm for your hem or 3cm to create a casing... just take the necessary graduated side! A quick press with the iron or chalk and you're done.
Moreover, it is small and compact, making it easy to take everywhere (to the sewing machine, the iron, or your sewing course).
It is extremely practical for preparing hems, marking pivot points... In short, a must-have in the sewing kit.
My preference goes to the metal model which has the advantage of not melting if placed near the iron... However, be careful with your fingers as it stores heat if left too close to the iron's soleplate!
2. Marking pens
Marking pens complete the range of tracing tools including chalk, which I already mentioned in the article on beginner sewing supplies.
There are several types of markers: those that erase with heat, water, or air.
Water-erasable markers will be your partner for tracing your patterns and marks directly on your fabric.
The blue marker will be useful for your light fabrics, while the white marker will be useful for your dark fabrics.
They have the advantage of not fading with heat, so your marks won’t disappear when you press your seam assemblies.
Air-erasable pens are great for temporary markings, such as marking a pivot point during sewing. The mark fades after about 30 minutes.
Heat-erasable markers are useful for making embroidery marks, for example... just be careful that everything disappears when you iron your work.
I also recommend, for all types of markers, always testing on a scrap piece... consider yourself warned...!
3. Machine needles
When you're a beginner, you usually sew everything with a standard 80 needle... but as you progress in sewing, you start working with other textile materials like denim, viscose, faux leather, jersey...
It is then necessary to change your machine needles according to the fabric.
To start, I suggest buying needles sold in sets (2 standard, 2 denim...) to get familiar with new materials. Then, depending on your preferred fabrics, you can buy boxes of needles suited to them: denim, microtex, stretch...
I recommend keeping a small backup supply because it's always on Sunday afternoon that you break your last needle!
For my part, I have been using Organ brand Japanese needles for several years and I am very satisfied with them.
4. The Japanese ruler
You will never see me in the workshop without my Japanese ruler, it’s truly essential! I use it for drafting patterns, placing marks, measuring distances, adding seam allowances, drawing clips...
The advantage of this ruler is that it is millimetered in both directions. This allows you to make nice right angles. For those who draft patterns, you know it makes all the difference.
5-6 and 7 The cutter, the cutting mat, and the patchwork ruler
As I mentioned in point 3, when you advance in sewing you like to try new textile materials.
It's the opportunity to test cutter cutting, on a cutting mat (unless you want to change your dining table) and with a slightly thick patchwork ruler.
We will try cutting viscose, jersey, faux leather, all three of which are well suited to this type of cutting.
I recommend a 45mm cutter for straight and long cuts and a 28mm one if you are making small pieces or with many curves.
If you invest in a cutting mat, preferably choose one at least 60cm long.
Finally, the patchwork ruler will be perfect to guide your cutter.
8 and 9 The punch and the snap clip
As you progress in sewing, you will be led to create patterns including loops, laces, snaps, buttons, eyelets...
To properly place your snaps, eyelets, hooks,... it may be necessary to pre-punch the placement area. A multi-position punch will be perfect for this task.
It will also be necessary to make new holes in your belt, for example.
The snap fastener pliers will allow you to easily place your snaps. It is essential for resin snaps. It can also be used to set metal snaps, eyelets, or rivets if you choose a universal model.
10. The guide passer or the bias tape turner
You will also make loops, ties, belts, and turning them inside out can sometimes be tricky... So you will need a tool. The guide passer is a tool that will be very handy for turning ribbons, straps, suspenders, fabric belts, etc. that you have made.
It is sold in sets of 3 sizes: S for a tube 9.5 to 16mm wide
M for a tube from 19 to 25mm
L for a tube over 25mm.
The bias tape turner is also an excellent option.
11. Bonus: the small stash
I recommend making a small stock of consumable supplies: elastic bands in various sizes, a few meters of bias tape in classic colors, some zipper pulls, buttons, a few spools of thread in basic colors... which will allow you to have all the necessary materials on hand to start or finish your sewing projects no matter the time of day or night!
For my part, I regularly dip into my stash of bias tape, elastic... it often saves me in the evening or on Sundays.
There you go, you know everything about the equipment that was essential to me when I advanced in sewing.
I always use it with pleasure!
And you, what are your essentials?
To your needles!
