When gradually moving out of the beginner level, the need for additional equipment for your sewing box arises.
Equipment that will help us tame new materials, achieve new techniques, or simply save us time.
I have selected the equipment that I really found useful when I considered myself an intermediate level in sewing. It is equipment I still use and that serves me and simplifies my life as a sewist!
I invite you to discover my selection of essentials for the evolving sewist.
Let's go!
1. The somometer
The somometer is a small plastic or aluminum tool that allows you to measure sewing values. It is a gauge providing several values; generally: 1, 1.5, 2, 3, 4, 6 cm sometimes with more half-values and higher values depending on the manufacturer.
The advantage of the somometer (compared to a ruler or yardstick) is that it is directly graduated. You just have to turn it to find the "right" value to transfer, whether it's 1cm for your hem or 3cm to create a casing... just take the necessary graduated side! A touch of iron or chalk and you're done.
Moreover, it is small and compact, which allows you to take it everywhere (to the sewing machine, the iron, or your sewing course).
It is extremely practical for preparing hems, marking pivot points... In short, a must-have in the sewing box.
My preference goes to the metal model which has the advantage of not melting if placed near the iron... However, watch your fingers because it stores heat if left too close to the iron's soleplate!
2. Marking pens
Marking pens complete the range of tracing tools including chalk which I already mentioned in the article on beginner sewing equipment.
There are several types of markers: those that erase with heat, water, or air.
Water-erasable markers will be your partner for tracing your patterns and marks directly on your fabric.
The blue marker will be useful for your light fabrics while the white marker will be useful for your dark fabrics.
They have the advantage of not erasing with heat, so your marks won’t disappear when you iron your seam assemblies.
Air-erasable pens are great for temporary markings, for example to mark a pivot point during sewing. The mark disappears after about 30 minutes.
Heat-erasable markers are useful to me for making embroidery marks, for example... be careful that everything disappears when you iron your work.
I also advise you, for all types of markers, to always test on a scrap... just saying...!
3. Machine needles
When you are a beginner, you generally sew everything with a standard 80 needle... but as you progress in sewing, you start to work with other textile materials like denim, viscose, faux leather, jersey...
It is then necessary to change your machine needles according to the fabric.
I recommend that beginners buy needles sold in sets (2 standard, 2 denim...) to get used to new materials. Then, depending on your preferred materials, you can buy boxes of needles suited to them: denim, microtex, stretch...
I advise you to keep a small backup reserve because it's always on Sunday afternoon that you break your last needle!
For my part, I have been using Organ brand Japanese needles for several years and I am very satisfied with them.
4. The Japanese ruler
You will never see me in the workshop without my Japanese ruler, it is really my essential! I use it for patterning, placing marks, measuring distances, adding seam allowances, drawing darts...
The advantage of this ruler is that it is millimetered in both directions. This allows you to make nice right angles. For those who draft patterns, you know it makes all the difference.
5-6 and 7 The cutter, the cutting mat, and the patchwork ruler
As I said in point 3, when you advance in sewing you like to tackle new textile materials.
It's the opportunity to test cutter cutting, on a cutting mat (unless you want to change the dining table) and with a slightly thick patchwork ruler.
We will try cutting viscose, jersey, faux leather, all three of which lend themselves well to this type of cutting.
I recommend a 45mm cutter for straight and long cuts and a 28mm one if you are making small pieces or with many curves.
If you invest in a cutting mat, preferably choose one at least 60cm long.
Finally, the patchwork ruler will be perfect to guide your cutter.
8 and 9 The punch and the snap pliers
As you progress in sewing, you will be led to create models including loops, laces, snaps, buttons, eyelets...
To properly place your snaps, eyelets, hooks,... it may be necessary to pre-punch the placement area. A multi-position punch will be perfect for this task.
It will also be necessary to make new holes in your belt, for example.
The snap fastener pliers will allow you to easily place your snaps. It is essential for resin snaps. It is also possible to use it to set metal snaps, eyelets, or rivets if you choose a universal model.
10. The guide passer or the bias tape turner
You will also make loops, ties, belts and turning them can sometimes be a hassle... So you will need a tool. The guide passer is a tool that will be very practical for turning ribbons, straps, braces, fabric belts, etc. that you have made.
It is sold in a set of 3 sizes: S for a tube 9.5 to 16mm wide
M for a tube from 19 to 25mm
L for a tube over 25mm.
The bias tape turner is also an excellent option.
11. Bonus: the small stock
I advise you to make a small stock of consumable supplies: elastics of different sizes, a few meters of bias tape in classic colors, a few zipper pulls, buttons, a few spools of thread in basic colors... which will allow you to have on hand all the necessary equipment to start or finish your sewing projects whatever the time of day or night!
For my part, I very regularly dip into my stash of bias tape, elastic... it often saves me in the evening or on Sundays.
There you go, you know everything about the equipment that was essential to me when I progressed in sewing.
I always use it with pleasure!
And you, what are your essentials?
Get your needles ready!
