As you progress in sewing, having sewn many garments and accessories, there are tools that can really help us. They bring comfort, more fluidity, and save us time!

I’m talking about the tools I find really useful once you gain experience in sewing.

Warning: The equipment list below is intended for advanced/expert sewers. 

If you are a beginner, I suggest reading or rereading the article my 10 essentials for starting sewing with the equipment that will really be useful for you to start, to avoid buying tools that won’t be useful. 

If you are intermediate, I recommend the article my 10 essentials for intermediate sewers, each level has its really useful accessories. 

Let’s get started! 

1. Buttonhole ruler

Since I started using this tool, I never let it go. I added one to the workshop kit for the students! I love this tool because it simplifies and speeds up the marking of buttonholes and button placement. 

It really saves a lot of time, especially if, like me, you like to change the spacing and/or the number of buttons planned by the designer.   

Indeed, the buttonhole ruler allows you to quickly calculate the spacing needed. You just have to open/spread it, and the distance will be equal between the different marking points. Then all that’s left is to mark the fabric! Buttonhole rulers generally allow you to position 8 buttons with spacing from 1.5 to 8cm. You can find them in the shop and on the webshop.

I mainly use it for shirts, blouses, skirts, and buttoned dresses...

2. Buttonhole opener

Once you have made your buttonholes, of course you need to open them! 

So the method of the quick unpicker or embroidery scissors works but carries risks. The buttonhole opener lets you open your buttonhole safely and it’s magical! Done in just one step!

To open your buttonholes, I advise you to work on a cutting mat to avoid damaging your table. 

3. Seam roller / Press and roll

The Roll & Press is a quick and effective way to create pleats or open/fold seam allowances. Especially for fabrics that can’t be ironed or are difficult to iron due to their sensitivity to heat.

It’s a small roller mounted on a handle that glides smoothly. It prevents fabric distortion (and avoids burning or marking with the iron). It’s used on both straight lines and curves.

It’s an ergonomic tool (for both right- and left-handed users) and really easy to use. A small downward force is enough to apply sufficient pressure. 

It’s really a useful tool for faux leather, suede, softshell...

4. Superfine pins

As you progress in sewing, you encounter more challenging materials: viscose, satins, silks... These more delicate fabrics require suitable tools, otherwise you risk damaging them. 

When I pin viscose, satins... I recommend using superfine pins. This helps avoid damaging the fabric: pulled threads, white marks, holes...

You can buy two magnetized skeins in different colors so you don’t confuse your superfine pins with the classic ones. 

5. Punch

This very practical little accessory will allow you to easily pierce your fabrics. For example, you can use a punch to make a small opening to slip in your seam ripper but also to pre-pierce before placing snaps or eyelets... The punch can also be useful to guide the fabric during machine sewing. It is also used in pattern making. 

6. Pelican scissors

The shape of these scissors resembles a pelican with one classic blade and one much larger one.
These scissors are very practical because pelican scissors allow you to cut fabric close to the stitch when doing machine appliqués while avoiding cutting the fabric thanks to the rounded pelican-beak-shaped side.

They are also widely used in lingerie but more recently for tufting. 

7. Serger and its clip tweezers

Buying a serger as you progress in sewing is a question that comes up very often! Will I "get my money's worth"? It all depends on your "addiction" to sewing 😅😂... and your financial means because a good serger is expensive. 

If, like me, you have decided to stop buying clothes in stores, purchasing a serger will be useful for overlocking your fabric edges, assembling all your knit fabrics, and also creating pretty rolled hems.

If your intention is simply to overlock fabric edges a few times a year, maybe the zigzag stitch on your machine could be enough for your use. 

By the way, if you want to try using a serger or if you have invested in one but don't dare to start on your own, we offer introductory serger courses to create a first t-shirt or sweatshirt. 

If you are ready to invest, then welcome to the wonderful world of the serger. I must say, for my part, I can't do without it anymore! It's fast, efficient, and the finishes are top-notch with a serger.

Don’t forget to invest in a precision clip / tweezers if it’s not included with your machine; it will be essential for threading your machine. 

8. Cones

If you have invested in a serger, you should equip yourself with thread cones which are much more practical and economical than small spools of thread! 

I recommend buying polyester thread cones. Don’t buy cones of too low quality that pill and break; you will clog your machine and get frustrated with broken threads! 

A medium-quality thread is more than enough, although you will also find very good quality threads that are more expensive. 

9. Clip or clips

Pins are the number one enemy of your serger knife! 

To avoid damaging or chipping it, I recommend either basting with basting thread or using sewing clips.

They are very useful for your serger! They hold the pieces of your project together instead of pins. I love their beautiful color, they look like candy... and they bring joy to the workshop! 

These clips will also be useful for all fabrics that are difficult or impossible to pin: coated, softshell, faux leather...

10. Double needle

Finally, to complete the essentials for the advanced sewer but also the essentials related to the serger and sewing knits... we have to talk about the stretch double needle!

This one allows you to make hems on knit fabrics, with a beautiful finish like in stores. 

Be careful, there are classic double needles and stretch double needles, so don't make a mistake when shopping. 

There you go, you now have a complete overview of the materials needed for sewers according to their sewing level. 

I hope you enjoyed this third part! 

So, all that's left is to get your needles ready!