The project I kept postponing is finally finished!
My poor darling waited a long time for his coat.
And to be honest, this first "gentleman" is actually a "wearable toile" because I wanted to make a toile first before cutting into a good quality and therefore expensive fabric...
For the little story, my darling is quite firm in his clothing choices and we couldn’t find a model that met his criteria, until the Gentleman pattern from the brand Les Beaux Gosses came out last year.

So, the Gentleman coat is a winter coat offered in two lengths: mid-thigh (85cm) or knee-length (100cm); and with two pocket choices: welt or patch.
The cut is simple, clean with a single row of buttons at the front.
It is lined and offered with a back vent for the long version.

The Gentleman is available from size XS to XXL which corresponds to:
- a neck circumference between 36 and 46cm
- a chest circumference between 89 and 116cm
- a waist circumference between 79 and 110cm
- a hip circumference between 90 and 120cm.
The height is 1.78m.

For my darling, I had to adjust the sizes because his bust size corresponded to M and his waist and hips corresponded to L. To do this, you just need to connect the different size lines smoothly; following the curves.

Where to find the pattern?
The pattern is available on the brand’s website only in printed format at the price of 21 euros. Delivery is free in mainland France for purchases over 55 euros. The site also lists haberdasheries that resell the patterns. I recommend proceeding this way. For my part, I bought mine at Chipote et Papote in Brussels.

What supplies are needed?
The Gentleman is a winter coat, so it is advisable to choose a warm fabric such as wool broadcloth, tweed, a woollen fabric but why not velvet... Count between 2.5m and 3m depending on the chosen length (if width is 1.4m). Be careful, allow more if you choose a fabric with matching patterns like checks.
You will also need a "slippery" lining especially for the sleeves such as satin, polyester lining, or silk. For the body, it can be nice to use a coloured cotton lining; which I did for my version. Count between 2 to 2.5m for the lining depending on the chosen model.
Also remember to get fusible knit interfacing which will be necessary among other things for the welt pockets and to stiffen the collar.
This will be completed with 5 buttons of 25mm, 5 buttons of 15mm, a 15cm zipper for those who want to make the "secret" pocket.

For my part, since I wanted to sew a toile, I bought a wool and polyester blend at the haberdashery Ribes et Casals in Malaga for the coat itself. This fabric was 15 euros per meter.
I completed my supplies with a coloured cotton lining for the body bought at Stragier, an orange polyester lining bought at Véritas and orange buttons from La maison Dorée in Ixelles, bought in a lot during the January sales. An excellent deal!

Sewing experience

First step, tracing the pattern
Since the pattern is only available in paper format, I carefully traced the pieces of the long version adding 1cm seam allowance.
Indeed, these are not included in the pattern but this has the advantage of allowing you to add the seam allowances that suit you best.
During the tracing, I admit I had to be careful with the cuts for the vent and the markings of the notches which required a bit of concentration.
I would find it quite good if Les Beaux Gosses added a small tutorial for making the vent, the collar and the welt pockets which are the three most difficult technical points; just saying ;-)

Second step: cutting the fabric
No difficulty to report, except to be very careful to cut on the fold the pieces for which it is necessary.

Third step: assembly
Sewing a coat requires a lot of precision and patience; it is more suited to sewers who already have some experience. I admit I took a lot of time to sew this coat. I tend to sew a little each day in relatively short sessions; however, to sew this coat I could not do it in short sessions because the technical points require time and concentration. So I needed longer periods where I could not be disturbed.

Indeed, the technical points for the version I chose are very numerous:
- the welt pockets on a thick fabric
- the assembly of the back with the vent (hence the good management of the notches during tracing)
- closing the front darts
- setting in the sleeves (coat and lining where you will make sure to leave an opening)
- assembling the collar (you absolutely must notch and trim well because there are many layers)
- assembling the facing which I enhanced with a contrasting welt
- creating the secret pocket (which I did not make on this version, nor the wrist tabs)
- assembling the lining of the body and cuffs
- the finishing: topstitching, buttonholes, placing the buttons (the large ones for the front and the small ones at the back), hand sewing the facing in place.

To be honest, I took much more than the 10 hours announced because I did not want to rush and wanted to fully understand all the steps before starting another project with a much more expensive piece of fabric.
I am not unhappy with my work which, I find, could still be better finished.
Nevertheless, I am very happy to see that my darling has adopted it and that he is very proud to wear it.