The Teddy Jacket the Irresistible from the pattern brand: les Beaux Gosses

For the little story, the brand's creators: Olivier and David met during the filming of the show Cousu Main. Sharing a passion for sewing but also the difficulty of finding modern men's patterns that matched their tastes, here they are creating their own brand! The brand les Beaux Gosses brings together contemporary men's patterns that can be adapted.
I chose the brand's teddy jacket for my man who wanted a nice and modern jacket.

The pattern is available from size XS to XXL, which corresponds to:
- neck circumference from 36 to 46 cm
- chest circumference from 89 to 117 cm
- waist circumference from 78 to 105
- hip circumference from 92 to 120cm.

You can purchase this pattern only in printed format for 18.50 euros on the brand's website or in good haberdasheries. Nothing to complain about the presentation which is very classy with its plastic printed. 

This pattern is designed to be worn over a shirt or a thin sweater. If you want to wear it in winter, I advise you to make it in the larger size so you can wear a thicker sweater.
The jacket is available in 2 versions: classic with a ribbed collar and a revisited version with a shirt collar.
It is also offered in 2 lengths: 55cm and 60cm zipper.
I chose to make the classic version with a 60cm zipper in a magnificent wax coming from the Matongé neighborhood, the African district of Brussels.

My beautiful wax ;-)

Tracing the pattern poses no problem. The pieces on the sheet do not overlap. So it’s really easy to trace. For placing the pieces, if you use patterned fabric like me, be careful with the back pattern. Indeed, it’s always nice to check its placement and that it’s complete.

Seam allowances are not included. The instructions regarding allowances are not very detailed; which caused me quite a bit of lost time and some hesitation when making the patch pockets.
I had to make a study piece to be sure of my work.
So if you add 1cm seam allowances to all your pieces (like me), it’s necessary to leave a 1cm space between the pocket and its pocket lining to have enough room to turn the welt.

Assembly - tracing

Assembly - cutting and capucins

That said, I’m quite proud of my pockets ;-)

Patch pocket - front of the bomber

The teddy l'Irrésistible is really great for learning how to make pockets because it has 4: the two front ones, 1 inner, and a very small one on the sleeve. For me, it’s an excellent piece to learn these techniques. If you have never made any, practice first on a fabric scrap because the assembly is not that easy.

Inner pocket - lining

Sleeve pocket

There are many technical stitches for making a bomber, so it’s a piece for rather experienced sewists.
Here is the list of stitches:
- making welt pockets and the sleeve pocket
- assembling the sleeves
- attaching zippers (front and sleeve pocket)
- making and assembling the facing and the lining
- attaching the ribbing at the bottom, sleeve, and collar
Something to keep busy during rainy weekends.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B33jmgsHzKq/

I loved making it and my man is very satisfied... I feel like I’m going to make mine too ;-)

 

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