A few weeks ago, we began a collaboration with the sewing pattern brand Isa In Stiches... I must say I really like its comfortable, modern designs!
The Nikka trousers, the Mistral and Lirio tops, the Rebecca T-shirt, the apron dress... Several designs caught my eye even as I was adding them to our platform!
I had to choose where to start, and I felt like sewing a simple, effective little piece for sunny days, so I chose the Lirio top.
Come and discover my sewing adventure and the beautiful patterns from Isa In stiches!
The design
The Lirio top immediately won me over with its lovely neckline shape. This sleeveless, flared summer top is really easy to make for anyone wanting to try dressmaking. It is unlined, with lovely facing finishes and bias binding around the armholes. Small ties at the back gently define the waist.
It opens at the front with a fastening of around 9 buttons.
This top is really cute and feminine, with lovely princess seams that shape the bust. A really lovely top that flatters so many body shapes!
Practical information
In the sewist's basket
Isa recommends woven fabrics for making the Lirio top, such as linen and linen-viscose blends, cotton poplin, denim, lightweight gabardine...
It is up to you whether you would like a stiffer, more structured garment or something softer and lighter.
Fabric requirements: 60cm to 85cm of fabric 140cm wide, depending on your size
You will also need:
- some fusible interfacing suitable for your fabric
- some bias binding in a matching colour
- 9 buttons or so
- some sewing thread in a matching colour
If you will be overlocking the inside seams, add some matching thread cones.
Finally, if, like me, you do not want the hassle of making button loops, you can buy some elastic button-loop trim 😊
My supplies
I chose to make my top in a lovely floral Japanese fabric from the shop. I only had a 1m length, 1.10m wide, but the size 36 fitted easily.
It is a cotton-linen blend that gives it some body without being too stiff.
I chose H200 interfacing for the facings.
I also selected some lilac bias binding and some mauve glitter buttons.
For the button fastenings, I used some blue elastic button-loop trim.
Cutting out the fabric
Sewing the princess seams
Sewing the back waist ties
Technical points
Isa In Stiches rates the Lirio top as easy, and I agree, although you will learn some interesting techniques 😊
The techniques are:
- sewing the back ties
- sewing the princess seams
- sewing the facing
- binding an edge with bias tape
- attaching elastic button-loop trim or making button loops
- hemming
Nothing insurmountable 😊 A small project that is easy to sew in half a day, with beautiful finishes!
Attaching the elastic button-loop trim
Attaching the facing
Binding the edge with bias tape
My sewing experience
As this was my first time sewing a pattern from this brand, I made a toile of the bodice in size 38 to check the fit.
It was a good decision, as size 38 was too big for me. I started again in size 36 with a small adjustment at the front: I wanted the top to fit well and the buttons and buttonholes to line up neatly at the centre front. So, a little tip: check your size carefully, and if you are between sizes, do not hesitate to size down 😊.
Everything else went like clockwork!
I simply replaced the button loops with elastic trim and chose to bind the outer edge of the facing with bias tape, as I think it gives a much prettier finish than simple overlocking.
I love this adorable little top, which is easy to wear on its own or over a white shirt.
Tutorial in French
As promised, here is the simplified construction sequence in French (as usual, I have left out the pressing and edge-finishing steps...)
1. Apply interfacing to the facing pieces
2. Prepare and sew the back ties
3. Position the back ties on the centre-back pieces at the markings and secure them
4. Sew the centre-back pieces to the side-back pieces (watch out for the ties), then join the centre-front and side-front pieces along the princess seams
5. Sew the garment's shoulder and side seams
6. Join the facing pieces at the shoulders and bind the edge with bias tape if desired
7. Sew the button loops or attach the elastic button-loop trim at the centre front
8. Sew the facing to the garment, clip the seam allowances and turn it to the inside of the garment (press well)
9. Finish the armholes with concealed bias binding (or bind the edges)
10. Hem the bottom of the garment
Ta-da, all done... I told you it was easy!
So, what do you think of this little top? I love it ❤️ And honestly, as it fits into less than a metre of Japanese fabric, I think it will be great for using up my fabric scraps!
You may well see quite a few of them appearing in the shop 😂
Fancy sewing Lirio? Find all the Isa in Stiches patterns here and all our beautiful Japanese fabrics here.
Feeling hesitant about trying dressmaking? Why not join us for a class? Our first-garment class will help you get started, so you can confidently sew and wear clothes that suit your body shape and your tastes!
