When I ordered the Nerida Hansen collection I had the opportunity to order a pattern specially made for the occasion, it is the blouse: Festival!
I was not disappointed when I received them because I wanted to sew a simple blouse (between two more complex projects 😂) with wide sleeves. It is typically the kind of blouse model I like to wear in spring and autumn and that goes very well with sleeveless cardigans when it's a bit chilly.
So I wanted to test the pattern before offering it to you since I had never worked with Nerida's patterns even though they had a good reputation, a test was necessary!
Besides, I had spotted a little Japanese cotton that had been catching my eye for a while, teasing me from afar... Anyway, I gave in and I will tell you about my sewing adventure!
The model
The Festival blouse by Nerida is a relatively simple but very effective model!
Indeed, it has bust darts to create a nice volume and a V-neck collar as I like (not too much, not too little). Its little effect is given by wide sleeves but especially by its pleating on the sleeve cap which I find successful and very original.
The proposed finishes are interesting because they include a facing for the sleeve hems as well as bias tape for the collar.
I find that this model is a good basic and allows you to discover new finishing techniques, especially if you are not used to sewing clothes.
Practical information for sewing the model
This model is sold only as a printed pattern on the web store and in physical stores. I don't know if other haberdasheries offer it since this model is specific to the fabric collection specially made for Europe.
The model is available from size XXS to XXL. I have included the size chart below because the pattern is Australian.
The pattern comes as an A4 printed in which the large pattern sheet is inserted and very readable. The instructions in English (no worries) are printed on the back of the pattern sheet. There are also explanatory diagrams that make assembly very simple.
Since the instructions are in English and not everyone is familiar with foreign languages, I made you an assembly tutorial below in French... yes, yes, that's how I am 😊
In the seamstress's basket
Nerida recommends cotton, linen, cotton-linen blends... To add, I would say you need a fabric of relatively light to medium weight with some body. Indeed, this is a blouse that plays on volumes and pleats, so you need a fabric that highlights these features.
A cotton poplin, a chambray, a linen, a linen viscose, a linen cotton, a cotton satin, and for those who like fluidity, I think it could also be nice in a twill or a viscose crepe, knowing that the sleeves will then have less volume.
You will also need some fusible interfacing, 20mm bias tape, and good quality thread.
My supplies
I chose to work with a pretty Japanese cotton printed with stylized mini camellia (tsubaki) flowers. I love the camellia pattern. It is a very common motif on Japanese fabrics because red-flowered camellias grow wild in Japan. Moreover, it is the flower of the samurai who saw in the petals of these red flowers an ode to the fleetingness of life. By the way, did you know that tea also comes from a variety of camellia? ... I digress, so after this horticultural aside, let's get back to my blouse!
I chose white H200 fusible interfacing for my facing and Gütermann thread no. 156.
As I overlocked my pieces with the serger, I also used red cones.
I didn't use bias because I recreated a back facing, I explain below how to make it.
Difficulty level and technical points
The blouse is relatively simple to make and consists of 7 pieces:
- a back on the fold
- a front on the fold
- two sleeves
- 2 sleeve facings
- a front facing
and for me an additional back facing instead of the bias finish; so I have 8 pieces.
The technical points are:
- sewing the darts
- making the sleeve head pleats
- making neckline and sleeve hem facings
- making a hem
How to make the back facing piece?
To redraw the back facing, you will need some cutting paper, a pencil, a Japanese ruler, and possibly a french curve.
Take your back piece and redraw a line 6.5cm from the neckline respecting the curve.
Once this piece is traced on the back, copy it onto a small piece of cutting paper.
Don't forget to mark the grainline and the fold cut symbol.
Ta-da the back facing is done!
Assembly tutorial
As I was telling you, the pattern is in English 😊 so I volunteer and prepared a simplified tutorial in French for you (I don't indicate the ironing or overlocking steps... you know those 😊).
After cutting all the pieces and fusing your two facing pieces, assemble the front and back shoulders right sides together. Do the same with the back and front facing.
Next, sew the bust darts and press them downwards.
Assemble right sides together the facing to the body at 0.8cm (foot edge), trim the seam and clip well the curves and the "V" of the neckline. Turn the facing towards the inside of the garment and press well. Attach the facing to the shoulders of the body so it doesn't move anymore. Assemble the sides right sides together. Ta-da the body is almost finished already!
Let's move on to the sleeves! Pre-form the sleeve pleats by carefully following the direction of the arrows indicated on the pattern, and stitch the pleats in the seam allowance (at 0.5cm) to support them. Then, prepare a gathering thread at 0.8cm to slightly gather the sleeve cap and thus ease the fullness. Assemble the sleeves to the body.
For the sleeve finish, press 1cm of the hem allowance on the sleeve facings (on the most curved/shortest side). Close the sleeve facings to form a circle. Sew the sleeve hem (the longest part of the facing) to the sleeves right sides together. Place the sleeve hem facing inside the garment and press well. Pin your facing to the sleeve (the famous pre-pressed cm) and stitch on the already pre-pressed hem allowance to create a nice finish. Ta-da the sleeve is finished and what a beauty!
Prepare a pressed hem for the bottom of the body and stitch. I chose to make a 2X1.5cm hem for my version.
All that's left is to model it!
My sewing experience
I really enjoyed sewing and discovering a new sewing pattern brand. I am delighted with my little red floral blouse.
It took me about 1 hour to read and trace the pattern one evening at home while glancing at a documentary.
I sewed about two hours on Sunday (for my birthday 😂): I overlocked my pieces, sewed the darts, assembled the body, and prepared the sleeve pleats. I fused my facing and assembled its shoulders.
I sewed for 1 hour on Monday morning where I sewed the facing to the body, the sleeve pleats, and assembled the sleeves to the body. I overlocked everything.
On Tuesday morning, I finished the sleeve hems and made the hem. I obviously ironed everything well. It took me about 1h30.
And ta-da, in the end it only took 5h30 for this very nice project to complete.
So do you like this little blouse?
I feel super good in it! I really enjoyed this little relaxing sewing 😊 before a bigger project but maybe you already guessed what I'm sewing this week 😂... otherwise we'll talk about it tonight on Instagram!
Your turn! And to your needles!
