When I ordered the Nerida Hansen collection, I had the chance to order a pattern specially released for the occasion, which is the blouse: Festival!
I wasn’t disappointed when I received them because I wanted to sew a simple blouse (between two more complex projects 😂) with wide sleeves. It’s exactly the kind of blouse I like to wear in spring and autumn and that goes really well with sleeveless cardigans when it’s a bit chilly.
So I wanted to test the pattern before offering it to you since I had never worked with Nerida’s patterns even though they had a good reputation, a test was necessary!
Also, I had spotted a little Japanese cotton that had been catching my eye for a while and teasing me from afar... Anyway, I gave in and I’m sharing my sewing adventure with you!
The pattern
The Festival blouse by Nerida is a relatively simple but very effective pattern!
Indeed, it has bust darts to create a nice shape and a V-neck collar just the way I like it (not too much, not too little). Its charm comes from the wide sleeves but especially from the pleating detail on the sleeve cap, which I find successful and very original.
The proposed finishes are interesting because they include a facing for the sleeve hems as well as bias tape for the collar.
I find this pattern to be a good basic and it allows you to discover new finishing techniques, especially if you are not used to sewing clothes.
Practical information for sewing the pattern
This pattern is sold only as a printed pattern on the online store and in physical shops. I don't know if other haberdasheries offer it since this pattern is specific to the fabric collection specially designed for Europe.
The pattern is available from size XXS to XXL. I have included the size chart below because the pattern is Australian.
The pattern comes as an A4 printed pattern envelope containing the large pattern sheet, which is very readable. The instructions in English (don’t worry) are printed on the back of the pattern sheet. There are also explanatory diagrams that make assembly very simple.
Since the instructions are in English and not everyone is familiar with foreign languages, I made a sewing tutorial below in French... yes, yes, that's how I am 😊
In the seamstress's basket
Nerida recommends cotton, linen, cotton-linen blends... To add, I would say you need a fabric of relatively light to medium weight with some body. Indeed, this is a blouse that plays on volume and pleats, so you need a fabric that highlights these features.
A cotton poplin, a chambray, a linen, a viscose linen, a cotton linen, a cotton satin, and for those who like fluidity, I think it could also work well in a twill or a viscose crepe, knowing that the sleeves will then have less volume.
You will also need some fusible interfacing, 20mm bias tape, and good quality thread.
My supplies
I chose to work with a pretty Japanese cotton printed with stylized mini camellia (tsubaki) flowers. I love the camellia pattern. It is very common on Japanese fabrics because red-flowered camellias grow wild in Japan. Moreover, it is the flower of the samurai, who saw in the petals of these red flowers an ode to the fleeting nature of life. By the way, did you know that tea also comes from a variety of camellia? ... I digress, so after this horticultural aside, let's get back to my blouse!
I chose white H200 fusible interfacing for my facing and Gütermann thread no. 156.
Since I overlocked my pieces, I also used red cones.
I didn’t use bias because I recreated a back facing; I explain below how to make it.
Difficulty level and technical points
The blouse is relatively simple to make and consists of 7 pieces:
- a back on fold
- a front on fold
- two sleeves
- 2 sleeve facings
- a front facing
and for me an additional back facing instead of bias finishing; so I have 8 pieces.
The technical points are:
- sewing the clips
- making the sleeve head pleats
- making neckline and sleeve hem facings
- hemming
How to make the back facing piece?
To redraw the back facing, you will need some pattern paper, a pencil, a Japanese ruler, and possibly a French curve.
Take your back piece and draw a line 6.5cm from the neckline following the curve.
Once this piece is traced on the back, copy it onto a small piece of pattern paper.
Don’t forget to mark the grainline and the fold cut symbol.
Ta-da, the back facing is done!
Assembly tutorial
As I told you, the pattern is in English 😊 so I volunteered and prepared a simplified tutorial in French for you (I don’t include the pressing or overlocking steps... you know those 😊).
After cutting all the pieces and fusing your two facing pieces, sew the front and back shoulders right sides together. Do the same with the back and front facing.
Next, sew the bust clips and press them downward.
Sew the facing to the body right sides together at 0.8cm (presser foot edge), trim the seam allowance and clip the curves and the "V" of the neckline well. Turn the facing to the inside of the garment and press well. Attach the facing to the shoulders of the body so it doesn't move. Sew the sides right sides together. Ta-da, the body is almost finished!
Let's move on to the sleeves! Pre-form the sleeve pleats, carefully following the direction of the arrows indicated on the pattern, and stitch the pleats in the seam allowance (at 0.5cm) to hold them in place. Then, prepare a gathering thread at 0.8cm to slightly gather the sleeve cap and ease the fullness. Assemble the sleeves to the body.
For the sleeve finish, pre-fold 1cm of the hem allowance on the sleeve facings (on the most curved/shortest side). Close the sleeve facings to form a circle. Sew the sleeve hem (the longest part of the facing) to the sleeves right sides together. Place the sleeve hem facing inside the garment and press well. Pin your facing to the sleeve (the famous pre-folded cm) and stitch on the already pre-folded 1cm allowance to create a neat finish. Ta-da, the sleeve is finished and what a beauty!
Prepare a pressed hem for the bottom of the body and stitch it. I chose to make a 2X1.5cm hem for my version.
All that's left is to show it off!
My sewing experience
I really enjoyed sewing and discovering a new sewing pattern brand. I'm delighted with my little red floral blouse.
It took me about 1 hour to read and trace the pattern one evening at home while glancing at a documentary.
I sewed for about two hours on Sunday (for my birthday 😂): I overlocked my pieces, sewed the clips, assembled the body, and prepared the sleeve pleats. I fused my facing and assembled its shoulders.
I sewed for 1 hour on Monday morning where I attached the facing to the body, made the sleeve pleats, and assembled the sleeves to the body. I overlocked everything.
On Tuesday morning, I finished the sleeve cuffs and made the hem. Of course, I ironed everything well. It took me about 1h30.
And ta-da, it only took 5h30 for this very nice project to complete.
So, do you like this little blouse?
I feel really great in it! I really enjoyed this little relaxing sewing project 😊 before a bigger one, but maybe you've already guessed what I'm sewing this week 😂... if not, we'll talk about it tonight on Instagram!
Go for it! And grab your needles!
