I don't know what the weather is like where you are, but in Belgium there's always gray skies and rain. Summer is taking its time! So, even though my wish list is full of little tops and dresses, I've switched to jeans + sweatshirt mode! 

When the new colorful french terry fabrics arrived in the shop, I thought these beautiful colors would do me good!  I set out to find a nice sweatshirt pattern and remembered the Calao sweatshirt by Instinct Couture that we have in the shop.

With its very original sleeves and various options, I was sure I would get a great pattern/fabric combination. 

So let's get started, I'll tell you about sewing the Calao sweatshirt by Instinct Couture!

The model 

The Calao Sweatshirt is the ultimate women's sweatshirt. By exploring the different options and varying the fabrics, you can create very sporty or rather cozy versions.

The key feature of this model is its pretty delicately pleated sleeves that can simply end with:
- a hem,
- ribbing in band or tubular form,
- or an elastic drawstring.

As for the bottom of the sweatshirt, there are many options:
- long with a hem,
- a waistband in ribbing,
- cropped with an elastic waistband.

For the neckline, you can choose:
- a simple neckline,
- a neckline band,
- or even a hood.  

For the version with ribbing, you can also sew a kangaroo pocket. This versatility allows you to customize your Calao Sweatshirt to make it truly unique.

In the seamstress’s basket 

To sew the Calao sweatshirt, you will need:
- 150 cm of fabric (140cm wide) for all versions
- Hood option: add 50 cm of fabric
- Version with ribbing: 40 cm of ribbing  

For the hood you will need:
- fusible interfacing
- 120 cm of cord

For the elasticated version, you will need to add:
- flat and soft elastic 15mm wide (40 cm for the sleeves + 1 m for the bottom of the sweatshirt)

My supplies

I fell for the pretty psychedelic patterned French terry from the shop. I took 1.5m for my size 36 and it was perfect. I even managed to cut the hood in the unlined version from my scraps. 

I wouldn’t have been able to make the lined hood version in 1.5m; I would have had to add the recommended 40cm. I chose to make the sweatshirt entirely with the serger using white cones.  

Since I had to do some stitching with the sewing machine, I selected a jersey needle and chose a good quality (gütermann) white thread. For the ribbing, I really struggled to decide on the color! I really liked the pink and saffron. In the end, I went with saffron/yellow. 

Level and technical stitches 

The Calao sweatshirt is rated level: 2/5. I think this is the right rating; this model suits beginner/intermediate sewers. However, more experienced sewers will (like me) really enjoy sewing this model and its clever pleat design on the sleeves.

In the instruction booklet, the different diagrams will really help you with assembly. There is also a video tutorial available on the YouTube channel and accessible via the QR code provided with the pattern.   

The technical stitches are:
- Sewing knit fabric,
- Sewing ribbing,
- Sewing a hood,   
- Sewing flat pleats

My sewing experience 

I chose to sew size 36 of the sweatshirt, in the unlined hood version with ribbing on the sleeves and bottom of the body. Size 36 was perfect; if you want a looser fit, I suggest sizing up, meaning choose the size above your measurements.

For my version, I lengthened the bottom of the body just a little (5cm more than the pattern instructions) because I wanted my sweatshirt to cover the hips better. I chose the version with ribbing but I admit I hesitated for a long time with the elasticated cuffs. I think I’ll make another version 😂 later.

I didn’t encounter any difficulty assembling the sweatshirt. I chose to use a triple stretch stitch (like the ones on swimsuits) for the hood hem. I think it gives a nice decorative touch. I’m very happy to have a pressing cushion that was very useful for flattening the seam in the middle of the hood. If you don’t have one, you can easily make one yourself. The tutorial is here.

I’m thrilled with my new french terry sweatshirt that will keep me company for a good while while waiting for the sun.

What about you, tempted to sew a pretty sweatshirt? We offer beginner and advanced overlocker courses, feel free to check them out here.

If you want to sew it at home, find the Calao sweatshirt and all the patterns from the lovely Instinct Couture brand here  

So all that's left to do is get started! Grab your needles!