I’m a fan of jersey and beautiful jersey prints to make pretty t-shirts and sweatshirts on the serger. It’s a sewing project that relaxes me, is quick, and very rewarding. 

I love the t-shirts offered by Vanessa Pouzet, of which I’ve made several versions of the wanted (especially now that there are quite a few options). But when I saw the gathered Rachel t-shirt from Joli Lab, I was unfaithful to her. I have to say I’d been looking for such a pattern for a while and I was immediately charmed!

Moreover, as if the stars had aligned to make me lose my good resolutions, there was a piece of jersey left in the shop whispering to me "take me, take me,... don’t leave me"... You guessed it, I gave in! 

Today, I’m sharing the sewing experience of my first Joli Lab pattern. 

The Rachel t-shirt pattern 

As I mentioned earlier, the Rachel t-shirt pattern comes with a gathered option at the chest. It caught my eye when I saw it on Instagram.

Nevertheless, Rachel is offered in several compatible versions with:

• Square neckline (I would say more of a wide neckline since the square shape isn’t very pronounced)
• Boat neckline
• Sweetheart neckline (gathered)
• Low back
  
• Semi-low back
• Classic back
• Short sleeves
• 3/4 sleeves
• Long sleeves

This allows for a nice variation of t-shirts from just one pattern, which is pretty cool!

Practical information for sewing Rachel

Rachel is rated level 1 out of 5 by Joli Lab, so it's a beginner level. I find it might be a bit ambitious for a true beginner because assembling the neckline band requires quite a bit of precision and the pattern is in jersey (stretchy). However, if you're motivated and have "cut your teeth" on a few small projects, why not dive into this lovely printed!

Rachel is available in printed and PDF formats on the Joli Lab website. It costs €10 in PDF format and €15 in printed format. 

The estimated sewing time is 2 hours according to Joli Lab. Note that seam allowances are included and are 0.7cm, which is very convenient for assembling with a serger. Hems are also included and are 1.5cm. 

Rachel is available from XS to XXL.

In the seamstress’s basket

To sew Rachel, you will obviously need a light to medium jersey, meaning a weight of 110 to 220g/m2. Joli Lab recommends jerseys containing elastane (about 5%) to provide both comfort and the necessary stretch for making a t-shirt. 

My supplies

After having the our selection of cotton jersey from the shop in front of me so often, and the beautiful chrysanthemum pattern on a golden background, I gave in! 

I chose to sew most of it with the serger. So I used cones matching my jersey and a spool of thread No. 412, which is a copper color recalling the golden effect of my jersey’s pattern. 

I also replaced the elastic thread with a thin 5mm wide elastic (I’ll explain why below). 

The technical points of the pattern

The technical points of a t-shirt always start with mastering the stretch fabric, namely cotton jersey. 

Next, there will be:

• sewing the elastic or elastic thread for the gathered option
• sewing the shoulders with stay tape if you want
• attaching the neckline band
• assembling the sleeves
• hemming with a twin needle or coverstitch machine. 

The two most difficult points are attaching the elastic and attaching the neckline band, which for this model is quite narrow. Indeed, Joli Lab suggests sewing it using the bias binding method, which requires quite a bit of precision to achieve a very nice finish. 

My sewing experience

I chose the sweetheart neckline version, the gathered version with a low but not deep back. For the sleeves, I chose the 3/4 sleeve option, which has a little retro vibe that I really like. I decided to sew it in size S. 

When cutting the pieces, I had a moment of doubt because I felt like I was missing some "back versions." I hadn’t read in the explanatory guide that clearly states the back and front pieces are interchangeable. So, the deep back corresponds to the square neckline, and so on. There are therefore fewer pieces than expected. It just goes to show... you always have to read the instructions! 

The first step was the front gathers. I chose to make them with a thin elastic that I stitched with a zigzag stitch. This creates a design on the front whose finish I particularly like. On the other hand, I have a bad memory of using elastic thread in the bobbin of my machine. It caused the bobbin tension to go out of adjustment, and I didn’t want to repeat that unpleasant experience. 

So I followed Joli Lab's advice, drew my line, and then I stitched my elastic with a tight zigzag stitch while pulling it to create gathers. 

I’m quite happy with the result; this method also gives nice gathers and you don’t feel the elastic. If this is your first time trying this method, I recommend doing a test on a scrap to learn how to manage the tension on the elastic to get beautiful gathers. 

I assembled the shoulders with the serger. 

Next comes the neckline band step, which needs to be prepared like a bias. I prepared it with an iron by first folding it in half and then folding it in half again to get my pre-folded neckline band. I closed the neckline band and then distributed it evenly. I stitched the edges once with the sewing machine using a stretch stitch and a jersey needle. Then, I folded the neckline band and stitched it a second time (still with the sewing machine) using a twin needle, making sure to be well aligned. I basted the seam beforehand.  

I must say this step isn’t easy because the neckline band is very thin and you need to sew straight on a small strip. I’m also wondering if I might widen it just a little bit for the next version. 

Once the neckline band is attached, the sleeves remain to be assembled. This goes smoothly; it’s a fairly easy step. I chose to sew them with the serger, same for the sides (the next step). 

Finally, the last step is the hems, which are 1.5cm. I chose to stitch them with the coverstitch machine; after all, I have to get some use out of it 😂. The coverstitch machine lets me have perfect hems as neat as the t-shirts you find in stores. For this t-shirt, I chose to stitch with three needles because I really like the look. 

All that was left was to try it on! I’m glad I made a size S because this t-shirt fits well. I love the sweetheart neckline with gathers; I think it gives it a very original touch. 

I’m delighted with this sewing project and will very likely make other versions. I really want to try the short-sleeve version, semi-deep back, or gathered neckline. 

And you, does this little t-shirt tempt you? Don’t hesitate to visit our jersey selection, there are some gems and on top of that they are on sale for our anniversary until Monday 5/29/2023! 

Get your needles ready!